DC Ross

Sweet Dingwall

(Actually, I have an Afterburner II, and it's extremely comfortable)

Try the yellow teflon tape made for gas lines, it's thicker & more durable than the plumber's stuff so it should hold up a bit longer.

If you're really have a burning desire for a pin router, save your appendages and drill press, spend $600 and pick up one of these: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Bench-Top-...rm-Router/G0587

If you are buying direct from Grizzly check to see if they still offer a Timberwolf with a bandsaw purchase.

I just bought the same saw last month after reading the 'bandsaw showdown' in Fine Woodworking (?), and it didn't come with a Timberwolf

Andy: I think a 3/8" 6 TPI hook blade is a good all-purpose blade like what you're looking for, but at $10-12 a pop, they're cheap enough that I'd pick up a variety from 1/4" - 1/2"

Hey Rich, unfortunately it'll be a few months before I can get my grubby little paws on one, since I just bought a new band saw (BTW, thx for the advice in the other thread), but I'll definitely report back.

Hey Jon & Rich,

The 18" Grizzly can go down to 1/8" & uses an abrasive belt (vs. rubber), but doesn't use the hook & loop system.

Hey Rick,

Not sure if you've considered it or not, but the Grizzly G0458 looks like a nice unit. I don't own one, but have seen one in person & will probably be my next major purchase. It can handle up to 4 1/2" thick material (vs. 3" on the 16-32) and has an open-ended 18" width.

Nice, I'll have to get some. Harbor Freight, eh?

Not exactly the same, but close:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=39146

As long as you're going there, pick up one of these:

So I finally bit the bullet and got a brand-spankin' new Grizzly G0457 bandsaw. The only problem is that I'm an idiot. It comes prewired for 220V operation and can be rewired for 110V, so I figured "Great, I'll just rewire it, plug it in and go", not realizing that it'll be pulling 20A @ 110V. The instructions specify that it requires a 25A circuit and a 5-30 or an L5-30 outlet. Even if I could find either of these outlets, they wouldn't do me much good, since I only have (over-loaded) 15-20A circuits.

So... I'm thinking about installing a subpanel in the garage / shop, which is about 20 feet from the main panel. I have 2 open breaker recepticles in my main panel, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Has anyone done this themselves? Any words of advice? Anything else I should be planning for?

I have an ESP MHB400 (baritone - tuned B to B ) that has a maple body and EMGs. It's very light weight and doesn't sound muddy or bright. I'm also of the belief that body woods and shape play very insignificant parts in the sound of electrics.

Whenever I go to Harbor Fright, I pick up a few clamps. $2 for a 4" clamp is a deal and a half. If you haven't yet, sign up for their email coupons, they always have great deals.

Hey Racer X, sweet score!

I have a 1986 Model 4 (original owner) that's never been apart, and there isn't a gasket.

I have to 2nd digi2t, McMaster-Carr has everything you could possibly want (well, as far as fasteners anyway). They have decent prices and shipping is usually pretty quick.

My first was a modification of a Harmony (Sears catalogue special) that was an Explorer rip-off, so I had lots of wood to chop away at

It turned out about as well as expected for a 16 year old kid with no patience or experience.

I route the channel on the router table after scarfing the headstock but before tapering the neck, so it's one continuous channel. No chisels or Dremel needed.

Yup, it sounds like you're looking for a bass, not a baritone guitar. Baritones are (usually) tuned B to B (B E A D F# , and a bass is typically an octave below a standard-tuned guitar. (Very) long-scale baritones and (very) short-scale basses will overlap scale lengths at around 28-29". The three baritone guitars I play are all 27", which seems to be a fairly standard scale length for a baritone (again, tuned B to . If you were to tune E to E, an octave below concert-pitch, be prepared for some seriously thick, noodley strings.

Did you use pure lemon oil (not Pledge)?

26.25" seems a bit short for a baritone (tuned B to B ), but may be okay for your mandocello.

I have two electric baritones and one acoustic.

On one electric (27" scale), I have 12, 16, 24p, 32, 44, 56, which is really noodley.

On the other (again, 27"), I'm using whatever came stock on it (just got it a couple of weeks ago -- an ESP LTD MHB-400. I think they need more letter-number combinations.)

On the acoustic, I use 16, 22, 29, 48, 60, 70 which is a bit tight

It sounds like an interesting project, keep us posted

Alt + PrtScn takes a snapshot of the currently active window. PrtScn by itself takes a snapshot of the entire desktop. Vista has a new tool called the Snipping Tool (type "Snipping Tool" in the Search box on the Start menu), that allows you to copy any part of the screen & save it without having to open Paint or Photoshop & paste it.

I just installed Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry) floors in my house & I've got loads of leftovers that I was planning on making fretboards/neck laminates out of. It is very dense, hard stuff and should work well for both.

I'm on disk 4 of the Finocchio DVDs. Check your local library, they may have a copy. I'd say they're good, not great. For example, he didn't build his own neck, and while they show him sanding for a 1/2 hr at a time (no wonder it's 9 hours long), they totally neglected to show routing the neck heel pocket, and the camera work is shoddy.

Ryan -- thx for the link to O'Brien's vid, I'll have to check it out.

Before hacking into the body, check the nut to see if the slots are a good depth, and check the neck for any bow. These both have an effect on the action. If the neck's straight and the nut is well-slotted, and your only other option is to set the bridge into the body, a router is the tool of choice.

I'd wait to hear what some of the other, more knowledgeable, members have to say though.

This is what I think of when I think "chambered" body

I consider a semi-hollowbody to be like a 335-type that is built similarly to an acoustic w/ bent sides that are separate from the front and back of the body.

If you're going to end up with one anyway, why not just bite the bullet and get what you really want?

Actually, I know a guy who did buy one & "went to town" on it.

Oh, back to the topic at hand... All of that's do-able, depending on your skill level. For a beginner, changing the logo & pickups should be relatively straight-forward. Scalloping the neck and changing the inlays may pose a greater challenge. It's a cheap enough guitar, so I wouldn't feel too bad about making it a "learner"

Gibson's new 339 has a Poplar sandwich (with Maple for the bread) for the top and back