DC Ross

Just to be clear, you're not hacking into that Dingwall (AB1?), are you?

I've heard Rit dye works well for dying plastics, although I've not tried it myself. Basically, just get a bucket of hot water, put the dye in, and put your piece in. Here's an article: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa38...907/ai_n8867845

aidlook, Not sure what you mean...

Looking at this pic: http://www.zacharyguitars.com/121206_07.JPG

The first string is wrapped counterclockwise (or anticlockwise for our friends across the pond), and the 2nd and 3rd are wrapped clockwise. The 6th string is wrapped clockwise, and the 4th and 5th are wrapped counterclockwise.

BTW, can I just say that that's the butt-ugliest, most uninspired headstock ever?

Tuning that SG would be a pain, the 1st string tuner has to be turned opposite the 2nd and 3rd, and likewise the 6th string tuner has to be turned opposite the 4th and 5th.

Hey Melvyn,

Just wanted to say that I really appreciate the book. (Yes, I did actually purchase it )

Here's a Google search for PDFs so you can nail some of the buggers that may be distributing it.

...Now looking at someone like David Gilmour...

I was thinking of Gilmour and his 3 1/2 step bends when I saw that fretboard. They claim that those crazy frets won't affect bends, but how could they not? If you bend past the 'transition point' of the frets between strings, you'd have to hear a noticable bump, or maybe choke the note entirely depending on the difference between the fret positions.

Black?

White & cream looks nice. Red and cream is okay (definitely not my favourite), but black and cream is a really classy, classic look.

Dont damn steel wool your guitar, its the stupidest thing you can ever do... all these lazy people that dont care for there guitar do it cus its fast.... but it just slowely makes ur frets smaller and ur neck smaller.

errr... We're not talking about SOS pads here. Some 0000 or 00000 steel wool is wonderful for a myriad of uses, including polishing frets and cleaning a neck and fingerboard.

What he said ^

I have a Charvel w/ a Kahler string locker on it & it has a normal nut. When I was much younger, I had one installed on another guitar, and the "luthier" installed it in place of the nut (& chopped up the headstock to do it). I wasn't extremely satisfied...

Here's a follow up

Same scenario, should it be tight to the end of the route like so: ]) or should there be a bit of space like so: ] )

thx!

I went through a 'cheap' guitar phase a couple of years ago, and bought an Oscar Schmidt OE-30 (semi-hollow bolt-on) for $110 and an Agile 2500 (LP copy) for $250, and I was planning on getting an Epi LP as well. I went to check it out (which was selling for $400 - at the very top end of 'cheap'), and I was seriously disappointed. The quality was abysmal. Frets were lifting, inlays were proud of the fingerboard, the jack was loose & output was intermittent, etc... You get the idea. After that experience, I would have paid $600 for the Agile, which has no problems at all whatsoever & is a great-looking and great-playing instrument. Everyone who plays it loves it. It puts the Epi LP to shame. Gibson should be embarrassed.

The stands that have surgical tubing (the orange-y rubber stuff) are a no-no for nitro finished guitars. There's something in it that causes a reaction.

My thoughts only; Body shape is good, headstock looks okay .I like the pickup and bridge combination a lot, it should sound great BUT the thin veneer on the top allowing the sand through on the forearm contour looks bad. The only finish that I would consider on this would be a very dark burst to cover up what I would consider a fault or alternatively an opaque finish, but I guess you would rather show the neck through construction.

I know some makers do it this way and in the seventies / eighties there were a few more examples going around but if I wanted the fancy top I would have used a thicker piece of wood or worked out some way of bending the top ala Tom Anderson guitars.

Rgs K

I've got to disagree

That's one of the design features that really attracted me to Dingwall: http://www.dingwallguitars.com/images/Afte...ody_front_e.jpg

Great job!

How about a long-scale electric, like 27-28" scale?

If this is a new guitar, I'd take it back & demand one in good condition.

Not that I've ever tried it, but I think the steaming method may work. It's worth a shot at least.

I'd use construction adhesive, like PL Premium. That is, of course, if you never want it to come off. Ever

I have a Dingwall, and like soapbarstrat says, the frets are tiny (banjo-sized). Unfortunately they are also very soft, and Sheldon uses stainless steel roundwounds which have a healthy appetite for fretwire.

Welcome to the left coast -- land of fleece and Birkenstocks

Hey all,

I'm planning my first project & was thinking about using some 2 1/4" Brazilian Cherry that I have left over from a flooring project for the fingerboard. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

How about using a scroll saw?

I really prefer the Kahler behind the nut. Well actually, I prefer nothing but a graphite nut, but given the choices I'd go w/ the Kahler. The only reason I chose one over the other is feel. When you're sliding down the neck to 1st position, anything but a nicely rounded, smooth nut can dig into your hand.

It's neat stuff. Here in the US, we call it Glue-Lam & it's usually used for beams. Very expensive from what I gather though.

The wood being inexpensive has nothing to deal with the quality of the wood. If you want to talk about cheap crap, get some green pine from Home Depot and build a guitar out of that (not recommended).

You mean something like Brian Timpe's 2xForce?

Looking good, BNichols!

It's kind of reminiscent of this: http://www.rondomusic.net/sjm62stoppbu.html, but I like your upper bouts much better!