DC Ross

hmmm;

on the few projects ive wanted a very level finish and had to pore fill, ive only needed one coat of WB filler (stew mac) and some touch ups;

i sand to 180; fill the pores; i use my hands, i never remeber to but a brush; rub it on, and i dont even sqeegee it off; resand 180, look for dips in the light, slop on more in spots i need it (i just use a popsicle stick) resand spots and finish; i always level my finish at least twicw during the process, which could be the secret; but i find the filling the part that gives me the least greif; thats on ash and walnut mostly

Are you using the ColorTone or TimberMate?

The ColorTone stuff has a very low viscosity (i.e. watery), and sinks into the pores so much that it takes way more than a couple applications, especially on woods like Mahogany.

The Colortone / Target waterbased grain filler is, to put it mildly, crap.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...c=43029&hl=

RAD is right, their instructions were written by someone who had never used the stuff. I tried every possible application technique that I could think of, and finally was able to fill the pores by sheer will and brute force

I assembled one for a customer; they're a PITA. The bridge and pickup routes were off, the neck pocket was sloppy, the hardware was terrible, the frets were totally out of whack, and the list goes on. You're better off just buying a good kit if you want to go the assembly route (vs. building one).

I'm selling this CA Technologies gun:

CPR-T3 1.3, 1.5, 1.7 w/ .6 Liter Plastic Cup

http://www.spraygunworld.com/products/CAT/...line%20CPR.html

It includes 1.3mm, 1.5mm, and 1.7mm tips and needles, and CPR (reduced pressure) and HVLP air caps

It was restored and certified as new condition by the factory. I've since moved up to a SATA MiniJet and no longer use this gun.

New, they're $218, I'll let it go for $150.

I'd love to see an example of Prostheta's explanation. Better yet, I'd love to play one and see how much it would fret out on the outer strings.

"Compound radius" is defined pretty much everywhere as a section of a cone, as Ken describes:

http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/a-compoundradius.html

http://www.sweetwater.com/expert-center/gl...-CompoundRadius

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fingerboard#Radius

Easy fix: Put a bit of binding in the slot.

61.04mm sounds about right, but honestly, that measurement never comes into play when actually building the instrument (for me, anyway).

If you're using a 48mm nut, the 12th fret width is determined by the string spacing of the bridge you're using...

I love walnut, it's easy to work, and smells like cinnamon

I built my prototype out of it; it sounds great and is a very comfortable weight. I also have two awesome Dingwall Afterburner basses that have walnut and bubinga bodies.

In the end, its all about personal preference. Good luck with your design!

Definitely, & good luck in GOTM. Sorry for the hijacks, BTW.

BUT there are men with small hands and women(try not to forget) with very,very small hands who can't get around on a thick neck(no I am not trying to imply anything),so I think they might benefit.

Exactly

I have larger than average hands, and mine cramp up with thick necks. Personally, my thin necks are the most comfortable for me.

This one fits her perfectly

What Avengers says.

Here's a superthin (that's .646" thick):

The neck is lacewood, fretboard is ebony, and uses an Allied truss rod.

I know you mentioned that you didn't want to use shellac because it warmed up the blue too much, but this is exactly what Jeff Jewitt recommends when using water/alcohol based dyes with waterbased topcoats because of this "lifting" issue.

You didn't mention what type of shellac you were using, but try blonde for a near-clear barrier coat.

Also, I'm doing my first lock nut equipped guitar. It's gunna come to the point soon where I need to do the nut ledge. Any pointers here for tools/methods you prefer, how to get it routed down the perfect amount, etc. etc.?

Chris

Super simple jig. A couple pieces of MDF, carriage bolts, washers and wing nuts.

Clamp the neck in, align the front edge of the jig with the front edge for the nut and make sure the nut slot is parallel with the top of the jig. Set the depth and go to town using a short pattern bit.

I vote for the logo in the middle or on top as well.

Seeing as how you don't have a ton of experience, and if you really want and/or need to do this, I'd suggest having them build kits. There are a few places around here that do that with acoustics and ukes, and people seem to get a kick out of it.

Thanks Terry, I just got back from Hawaii, and they were here waiting for me!

I use a Line 6 Pod X3 Pro, and really like it for the versatility, but the AES/EBU output seems tweaky. It's my main bass rig and my 'sometimes' guitar rig. If I had the cash, I'd definitely go for a Fractal Audio Axe FX.

If you don't want to go the heatgun route, a healthy (cough) dose of denatured alcohol may do the trick.

Fretfind 2D is still there, they just changed the interface and location (for some reason...)

http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/

+1

In case you were curious as to how they do it, go here.

Thanks guys, I've been working on documenting all of my jigs in my "spare time"

Like Chris says, it's aluminum and can be cut with woodworking tools, but it'll dull them. I used a non-ferrous metal cutting blade in my chop saw to cut it and an old, junky file to smooth the edges.

As for where to find the track, I bought two server racks at a going out of business sale. Rockler has something similar, but they're definitely not cheap.

I'll take 'em

Ah, I see what you meant now. Like Drak says, it's kind of up to you. I'm in the finishing stages of a guitar with an oiled neck that won't be glued in until the body is clearcoated.

You'll need to remove any finish from the neck where it mates with the body (and vice-versa).

A couple of things:

1. If you can actually route the neck angle accurately to 1/100 of a degree, I applaud you.

2. Go here to figure out the angle using measurements from the bridge you'll be using.