DC Ross

Here are a bunch of dimensions:

http://www.jemsite.com/jem/necks.htm

I'd say anything more than 1/2 the thickness would be too much

The platform that the fretboard is attached to swings side to side. It's basically an upside-down version of the other jigs that have been posted.

I made a similar one, but it rides through my thickness sander.

Would love to see some pics if you will

No prob, I'll try to take some this weekend.

If they're so honest and proud of the cranked out cnc mades... ask them to honestly, and proudly explain their justification for those ridiculous prices....

Simple answer: Supply and demand Why else can Gibson ask 2x again as much? Because people will pay it.

Another simple answer: Man-hours. It takes way more than 12 to complete a PRS. Heck, it takes an experienced guy 45 minutes just to level sand after base coat.

At any rate, I'm not trying to convert anyone, we all have our preferences, and noone is going to change anyone else's mind.

CNC isn't the issue here. It's the incredible amount of work that comes after. As we all know, routing and rough shaping only accounts for a small percentage of the time and effort, which is what the CNC process does. Bodies don't come out of the machines ready for spraying any more than they do after you take your angle grinder to the top to carve it.

And postal, PRS isn't trying to "pawn off CNC cranked out guitars as handmades." Just the opposite, they're very open, honest and actually proud of the fact that they use the technology to make better guitars.

The title pretty much sums it up. I'm looking for a good 12 string TOM or wraparound with individually intonatable saddles. Any ideas?

Thanks!

Thanks for the heads-up about the site. It's going through a redesign soon anyway.

Here's a pic of my aluminum dragon, sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.

This Grizzly Radiusing Jig: http://www.grizzly.com/products/Fretboard-...ment-Only/G0577

...can do a compound radius from 10" to 16". Can this be modified to 7.25" ? I don't have the wherewithal to know if this is possible.

You could build one of these(scroll down the page a bit) : http://www.luthierscooltools.com/Dwgs.htm

Anyone know how this jig works? The picture doesn't really show anything. I'm trying to decide between the various different designs and I'd like to know what this jig's approach is.

The platform that the fretboard is attached to swings side to side. It's basically an upside-down version of the other jigs that have been posted.

I made a similar one, but it rides through my thickness sander.

I use brass and aluminum as inlays, gluing with epoxy, and haven't had any issues. You just have to make sure that the fret slots are wider than the fret tangs, cuz it's not going to compress

If you're inlaying it, I'd set it a few mils beneath the surface and top it with Magic-Glos. It's a crystal-clear UV-curable epoxy.

Not to turn this into a tonewood discussion, but IMO, I think wood has less of a tonal effect on Strats (especially trem-equipped) than any other guitar. The pickups are mounted to a flimsy piece of plastic, the strings transfer vibration to a bunch of springs, and they were designed to be cheap, quick and easy to produce. It all adds up to some great guitars, mind you.

You'll end up with some awesome Stratty tones if you go with a 25.5" scale and good single coils.

I use a 3/4" Trimaster on my Grizzly 14", and it's been great -- going on about two years now. I of course take care of it, release the tension when not in use and keep it clean.

"Secret information?" Seriously? When anyone can just go to GC and measure it for themselves?

Neat.

IMO, PRSs are the only high-production guitars worth their cost. They have exceptional quality control at many points along the production line. The consistency between guitars is amazing, and the amount of (USA) handwork is incredible.

Here's a fun test: pick up three of the same model Gibson (I did this with 1960 Les Paul reissues), and see and feel how different they are from each other straight out of the box. Do the same with PRS Custom 22s. Keep in mind that these are all around the same price point. The PRS is, quantifiably, a far superior instrument.

A customer brought a box of Guitarfetish stuff ("floyd-compatible" body, floyd, neck, etc...) for me to assemble. In addition to a bunch of other problems, the bridge pickup route went too far south, so I had to add a shim to the bridge side of the route to be able to place the studs correctly. So much for a 'cheap' partscaster. He'd have been much better off getting a Carvin kit.

That looks good, I didn't buy a Floyd Rose, I bought a Floyd Rosd instead

Nice! Not quite as good as "Rhythm In Jump, Dancing Close To You," but still pretty good

What should the clearances be? And should the truss rod be all the way loose, tight, or somewhere in between?

Adjust the neck so it's perfectly flat when measuring. I'd aim for the bridge to be even with the frets at its lowest position (i.e. the straightedge touches the fret tops and the bridge saddle).

All depends on your string diameters... Look at the pakage of strings and get the right files.

What are Factory standard slot dims?

Like RDub said, measure the strings you'll be using and cut slots to match. A standard set may run something like:

.028

.032

.040

.030

.036

.042

It smells like cinnamon when you work it, too. Makes me want sticky buns.

The best thing I have used for dot markers is a router bit on a drill press. No wandering of the bit.

Perfect flat base. Try it on scrap.

Mike

Better yet, how about a drill bit in a drill press...

Use a 1/4" brad point bit, and the hammer method that Spoke spoke of. Works for me every time.

C.C. Deville!!

Who had the uncanny knack to almost hit those bent notes every single time

I have a Martin DR that I bought for about $600. It's a great sounding guitar, and plays very well. It's quiet, though, so maybe not the best choice if you're going to be playing with other musicians.

Plug your numbers into this tool from StewMac:

http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator

With the bridge angled that radically, the string spacing at the bridge will be less than advertised, and will change slightly when adjusting for intonation. Maybe not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind.

From StewMac:

Tip (positive) is shortest terminal.

Ring (stereo output) is mid-length terminal.

Switch (for battery) is long terminal.

Ground is long arm coming from side of jack.