DC Ross

Hey Spoke, I figured it out, it's called a "deep 12 point thin walled 3/8" socket". Ask for it by name.

Thanks, ihockey, I posted the question over there as well.

The Guitarfetish one is a 12" radius and is super cheesy. It also has a very long/deep block, so don't plan on recessing it.

Thanks for the reply Mattia,

There was indeed a wrench to remove the assembly but the way the nozzle assembly is designed, it seems like it requires a socket of some sort to remove the nozzle itself.

As for the needle, the part numbers engraved on them are identical. I sent emails to the manufacturer and the dealer, but figured I'd increase my chances and ask here as well

Thanks again.

I finally bought a decent gun, and have no idea how to swap the nozzle. It's not quite normal, and there are no instructions and nothing on the interwebs about it.

Here's a pic:

You can see that the nozzle (brown/bronze bit) threads into the nozzle body holder thing (steel bit), but there's nowhere for a wrench to grab it. What knurling there is, is below the lip of the nozzle holder.

Any ideas?

Also, the 1.5mm and the 1.7mm needles are identical (although the nozzles are different). Is this normal, or was I shipped the wrong part?

Thanks

If it sticks, it sticks. Move on...

Where have you played a guitar with no truss rod before. For the last 100 years any decent guitar has some type of truss rod, even if not adjustable. The only ones I can see not using one are the cheapest on the market, and that's not really a guitar to make any comparisons to.

Classical / nylon strung guitars don't have a truss rod. Is this what you're building?

Like I always say, if you want a Floyd, get a Kahler

Fruit woods will typically move more than other hardwoods, but other than that, I don't see why they aren't used more.

Since we are talking cool little ideas, I came across an idea in Adrian Legg's old "customizing your electric guitar" book the other day that had slipped by me. One of his guitars had active electronics in it, so he installed a "mercury switch" in it that sense when the guitar is 'upright'. So, when he is done playing, he puts it on a guitar stand and the battery is disconnected and the guitar is "off"...saving power and no noise from the thing sitting there plugged in with an amp on. (I suppose there is a jack switch as well so it is off when unplugged in it's case)...

Pretty cool idea, I always thought there must be a sensible use for the things maybe one day I'll try that as well...

Anyone else come up with or have come across little ideas that make a difference?

Plus, you can get that staccato machine-gun type effect if you do the

(BTW, what Suhr calls 'vulcanized maple', Anderson calls 'chocolate maple'... there's no standard industry terminology for what it is, though i'm fairly certain the wood industry calls it 'roasted'.)

Vulcanizing is a process that has nothing to do with wood. I'm not sure why Suhr would call it that (unless he's impregnating the wood with rubber )

I accidentally left the tape on one neck. It doesn't seem to make a difference

I think the OP was asking about dual (i.e. two) truss rods, not dual action.

Where are you located?

It's a bit hard to read, but that's 0.646" thick.

Some of the best, in my book. I'm surprised they caught on as well as they did, since guitarists are, by and large, such a traditional, fickle lot.

Check out this article/interview from the ToneQuest Report: http://www.kenparkerarchtops.com/ParkerTQRDec09.pdf

Great! You will HAVE to tell me how you like that bridge! I haven't seen anyone use one around the forums and have been planning to put the 7-string version on a build I have in the pipeline. When you get this done please drop me a PM and tell me your impressions.

Kahlers rule. If you're considering a Floyd, get a Kahler. It's a MUCH better trem IMO -- easier to route for, install, set up, and they're way more adjustable (radius, string spacing, spring tension, trem arm tension).

Huge Racks should be able to help you out.

Well THAT was a disapointment...

Craigslist or this pneumatic one with this pad for PSA discs is an option if you have a good compressor.

It's for recess mounted Floyds. It allows for easier access to the string clamps and for pulling up on the trem.

1/8" is too thin. Mine are usually 3/16" which help make very thin neck profiles, but most start out around 1/4".

This beauty is still available.

No, it's not cheap. Yes, it plays like a dream

Have you considered using epoxy and wood flour?

3 looks like white limba