DC Ross

Awesome, thanks for the heads-up on that Peterson clip-on. I've been looking for a good way to use my Strobostomp with acoustics.

Here's the latest version (TP-3) on StewMac.

i'm going to guess that 5 is purpleheart and 1 is birch

I'd leave it. A bit of buzz doesn't bother me, I'm not a jazz-type guy. I actually like a bit of grit.

For about $20, I like the Korg CA-30. If you're looking for a clip-on, the Fishman FT-1 is a good deal.

We don't need to pin ****.

People need to be willing to search for their answers.

Agreed, but not being able to search for three-letter words really puts the kibosh on that. Any searches for "bit" "nut" or "oil" will throw an error. Is there any way for the admins/Brian to make the search less restrictive?

Get some matching mahogany and glue it on, then shape it. It sucks, but it's not really that big of a deal to do.

The EMG quick connects are RC servo connectors. Check Tower Hobbies.

If you're talking about the "Personal Photo" under your profile, it doesn't work.

Luckily I haven't had any major injuries yet. Mostly the common mishaps though, like drill bits slipping, the plunge mechanism on the router slipping (that was a major pisser since it simultaniously destroyed both a body and my neck pocket jig), and other minor stuff. I'm pretty safety-conscious though (i.e. paranoid), and think through every operation.

It's kind of a pain to do since epoxy will get EVERYWHERE, but it's well worth it, especially if you're going to be using roundwounds.

Holly Titebond

She's a stripper in Vegas, isn't she?

Are those supposed to be necks?

Absolutely certain it's correct -- 25" from the frontside of the nut. The route will need to be opened up to accomodate the bridge.

Thx

Hmm, double-post. Sorry bout that

Hey all,

I'm installing an OLF Floyd (redundant much?) in a Guitar Fetish Strat body that's HSH routed, but there isn't enough meat forward of the bridge for the posts (see pic). My initial reaction is to A ) use a different bridge, since the mounting holes would be further back (customer really wants a Floyd though); B ) Glue a shim at the back of the pickup route (but I wouldn't be able to match the finish); or C ) Relocate the neck somehow.

Any ideas?

Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with (disregard the "centerline" notes - that's a separate issue):

Thanks,

-dcr

Does anyone put any type off additional weight in the body when you need to tip the scales? Little thin bits of steel or lead, like they do on Pinewood derby cars?

No need to, with a properly-designed guitar

+1. Probably the same amount of effort involved.

Sit down with your design and be realistic about what will work and what won't. Draw it out full scale (including the components) and things will become obvious such as the balance issue (as has been pointed out), and where your tuners will go.

You can get a scale fingerboard diagram from here.

Gotta be really careful going from the top down. There's much less of a chance of mishaps going from the cavity to the post hole (my preferred method).

Really? This seems counterintuitive to me in every possible way.

Go the other direction, drill from the post hole to the cavity, a much bigger target and easy enough to hit freehand.

+2

Hi guys - thanks for your comments. I think I realise now that what I was trying to do was unnecassarily difficult. If you can drill from the post hole to the control cavity - yes that's much easier. But - methinks - because you have to drill at an angle from the top of the post hole through the body to the control cavity - surely this will trash the top of your nice perfectly drilled post hole??

Lay a thin piece of scrap or something on the top, rest the bit on that and not the corner of your bridge post hole. This is all but impossible to screw up in my experience.

It's a simple matter of geometry... Going from the post hole to the cavity (assuming a bit diameter of .25", a post hole diameter of .5", body thickness of 1.75" and a distance of 1" from post to cavity):

Not much room for error.

And going from the cavity to the post hole:

Nothing difficult about lining up the bit & drilling to the bridge post hole...

No steep angle to drill at -- especially if your bridge is far from your cavity. No worries about nicking the top or tearout on the cavity side, either.

Meh. Whatever works.

Gotta be really careful going from the top down. There's much less of a chance of mishaps going from the cavity to the post hole (my preferred method).

Nice job on this one, and I like your ingenuity, but you may want to re-think the wire routing here. The pickup wires will more than likely get in the way of the pickup legs and impede the height adjustability. Ask me how I know

Easy enough to just leave the switch & knob in the body, and make the pups swappable from the backside like in the patent diagrams. I was planning on using bullet catches to make both the physical and electrical connections for my swappable project.