VanKirk

Sooo, what ever happened to Jeff?

lol, j/k, j/k calm down.

Just a joke, no need to 'freak out, man'

GOTM is all in fun.

I just wished I could play them as well as look at them since I generally am not admiring how a guitar looks as I play it but how it feels and sounds in my hands.

Of course looks and playability are the goal

Here's to a happy and prosperous New Year for our families and members here on Project Guitar!

Thank you to all the members and especially to Brian and ALL the mods past and present that have made this a great community for sharing our common interests!

Nice!

I wonder if Myka's technique is close to that?

An oscillating spindle sander has taken the place of my adhesive-backed sandpaper stuck to a coffee cup.

Warmoth or USA Custom Guitars.

I want to try a Soulmate neck.

Great options at a great price. I wanna play one!

Happy B-day Setch!

Yay! I get to make up for calling you Satch last time I wished ya a happy B-Day, lol

I just celebrated my 5th anniversary of my 28th B-day not too long ago.

I want to play that guitar!

I could swear that bridge is the same an old Peavey Impact I used to have.

I liked that bridge and I remember that it was a Kahler....I miss that guitar. Shoulda never gave it to my ex-GF

I've been tryin to find some info but all I've found was the link to an ebay auction.

Nice job!

If you think it might be hard to fish the new wire back into the hole try this;

After you desolder the old wire from the pot you can tape a piece of string or another piece of wire to it before you pull it out.

After the string (or wire) is pulled through the hole, pull the tape off and leave the string 'till your ready to put in the new one.

Then you can tape the new wire to it and pull it back into the control cavity.

Hope that makes sense.

married????what girl could tame the Fonz?

now vankirk...i am a bit put out with you....www's old butt posts and you are right there with bells on...but you have not even said boo to me...your old slamming buddy!

it is nice to have three of us in the same post though...if we could just get alex and coen to post in this thread...

LoL!

Sorry for the delay in replying. I've been busy and haven't checked up here very often lately.

Ahhh, the slam thread. Honesty and BS, so therapeutic and loads of fun.

It is cool to see ya back, you were missed. It wasn't the same around here without ya, sweetcheeks!

Now that I'm married everyday is a slamthread

Cool to see a new builder from this neck of the woods. Har Har Har I'm soo punny!

I haven't been in touch with Tommy but last time I drove by his shop I didn't see his sign up so I assume he's moved the shop.

Go and try some guitars and see what YOU like..

I agree with this statement.

Tone is so subjective and is also dependent on all your gear as a whole.

What sounds good to you may sound like crap to another guitarist.

Find a music store with a good selection, an amp that's like yours and 'taste test' each, one by one.

Just keep in mind the types of woods used in each guitar will also effect the tone.

Sorry to hear the news.

I moved from T-town down to the Oly area and I will keep my eyes open.

btw...I used to party at the RAM down on Ruston Way, before I was married of course, hehe.

A basses bridge is placed to far back for a guitar.

Is this just a visual thing? Are we such a basically conservative lot that the generally accepted proportions of the established and famous instruments have set our blinkers for what is now deemed acceptable?

Or is there a reasonable explanation based on balance, transmission of vibration, etc. that would segregate the more radical designs due to bad tonal qualities?

I guess this post sounds a little confrontational, it's not meant to be, its a genuinely interested (maybe naive) question that I think has to be asked at regular intervals.

eg: Tyler headstock: Euggh! Does the job but looks awful. design, aeshetics and balance of proportion are important, but maybe not from a tonal quality, maybe just a visual one.

I'm sure he's referring to the scale length.

Scale length = distance from nut of the neck to the saddles on the bridge.

The further from the neck pocket your bridge is (if it was already mounted), the further into the body you have to mount the neck.

If it's too far into the body you won't have good fret access or weight balance.

Maybe he could use a baritone neck and alter the body for a little deeper cut-away to keep a better body to neck weight balance and still keep fret access.

I've found guitars can get uncomfortable during a long set if there's not a good weight balance or of course too heavy over all.

+1 on the Tyler headstocks, hehe

I agree with low end buzz.

Lacquer or poly on maple.

Lemon oil to keep a rosewood fretboard conditioned (not a finish, per se)

I wouldn't recommend an oil finish for the fretboard but the back of the neck I love the feel of Formby's tung oil.

Tru-oil is a little too sticky for me on the back of the neck.

I generally use the plexi templates as a master to make plywood or MDF templates with.

That way I'm not as concerned about damaging the plexi master.

As a bonus while making the plywood/MDF template, you get a little practice at routing.

As for how far to extend the shaft out of the collet, I'd personally leave at least 3/4" still in the collet to feel safe.

Stew-mac sells a bit with a bearing that will route the corners but Brian's idea will work just fine.

Also, you could use a 1/4" bit without a bearing and let the shaft ride along the template without a bearing. Just get a bit that has a 1/4" shaft.

Then the shaft and tip will have the same diameter...sounds dirty I know

I only use the 1/4" bit for my corners though and then switch to a 1/2" bit for the rest.

+1 for Tommy at USA Custom Guitars. He's recently moved his shop but hasn't had a nervous breakdown...yet

Wound your pups too? sweet!

I really like that shade of green.

There's a pic on the Warmoth website showing faux binding that is that shade and I've drooled over it ever since.

What stain and mixture did you use?

Maybe you could use concentric pots and a rotary or 5 way switch to clean things up a bit?

The clean doesn't necessarily have to be Fender-omg-*** clean

haha!

That made me laugh, thx.

Have you looked at any of Brian's prices at projectguitar.com?

He's got some decent prices and the service is top notch.

Are you dead-set on winding your own pups? The time and trouble of buying pre-made might be worth it...just my 2 cents.

I just picked some of this up since I was at RadioShack anyway. I assumed it would have instructions but it doesn't and I'm not finding anything w/ Google. So how's it work? This is what I got, by the way:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...tab=accessories

Heat shrink tubing slides over a soldered wire joint. Slide the tubing on the wire, solder the wire where you want, then slide the tubing over the solder point and heat it till it shrinks.

When you solder a wire on, make sure the heat shrink is far enough away from your solder point because the wire can still get hot enough inside the wire shield that it shrinks the tubing so slide it at least an inch up the wire, away from your solder point before you heat anything.

Happy Birthday!

Have fun but remember don't drink and drive, wear a condom and never give out your real phone number.