sb guitars

thanx

Can someone please help me out?

The website is down

I'm upgrading my guitar with a floyd rose. I have been searching for a template for a while now. I don't have the patience to buy one of stew mac then wait for a week....so I wanted to "burrow" a template that someone may have. I will be making this template tomorrow, so the sooner the help the better. I don't want to recess the FR either.

I'm new to this so if you could post any related info, that would help a lot too. Any problems you met on the way that I should avoid...any help at all will be very much appreciated.

Obviously you don't want to hear it,but I have bought a couple of those "clone" guitars and some parts over the years,and they are awful..just like everyone else is trying to tell you.

The ONLY fulcrum trems that will keep a knife edge in proper form for more than a few uses are Floyd,Schaller,and some high end gotoh.

"as high a standard"?..now THAT is an understatement.

But maybe you won't notice..normally guys who buy those things never use a trem anyway,because if they did,they would know better.

Thank you. Could I use this "clone" for a year without substantial wear? When does the wear really start effecting tuning? And when I get a real fr, will it just be a "quick" switch, or will I have to route a bit more?

Thank you everybody for your opinions.....Odds are I will probably end up buying a real one very soon-but-as of now this is all my budget will allow.

Now, if you would so kindly refer to my first post...I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS EVER USED THEM BEFORE, AND IF YOU HAVE, ARE THEY ANY GOOD.....notice the first part of this sentence....."IF ANYONE HAS USED THEM".....now refer to the middle section....."AND IF YOU HAVE".......

Once again, thank you for your opinions. I realize that I will be buying a floyd rose system that is not up to as high of a standard as the originals. What I was asking is if anyone that HAS USED THEM has any comments on the clone system.....once again anyone that has used them before.

Thank You

I'm going to try the chinese ripoff. I'm limited for money, so $35 total is the perfect price for me.

The guitar i built has a big problem with intonation....I set the bridge at 25 inches, so the intonation is way off. I can still play it, but I want to install a Floyd Rose bridge. I will set it at the appropriate distance from the nut this time.

I dont have much money, so I looked on Ebay for some good deals. There are some FR bridges from hong kong (obviously clones), there are $45 with shipping. I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS EVER USED THEM BEFORE, AND IF YOU HAVE, ARE THEY ANY GOOD?

And, could I just install the locking nut on an ordinary neck?

Once you start getting into 600 and 800 grit or higher you should be wet sanding the whole time. Those fine grit papers clog up fast, and create corns which cause scratches. The wet sanding helps lubricate the paper to make it sand easier, and to help keep the sand area clear and to help prevent corns.

Thank you very much

Let me ask a dumb question that I have not seen posed yet. Have you tried polishing it yet? You sanded to 2000 grit which will leave a semi-gloss finish full of millions of tiny scratches. Polishing will remove these final scratches. Remember a good finish on a car, especially the engine is a poor finish on a guitar.

Nope haven't polished it yet. I will be tomorrow night. Thank you for telling me that, the wet sanding removed some of them, and after the polishing-they should all be gone.

Where in Toronto are you from?

Sorry about putting this in the wrong section.

Strangely enough, this paint does dry quickly and hard too. I've been able to sand after 30 minutes drying time. Even weirder, the temperature here hasn't even gone above 15C....and everything works nicely.

I've painted with enamels before, and the result was that soft finish that gets messed up after sanding.

And, WIG, I just went to duplicolor's website and they revamped the engine enamel. And after googling sanding engine enamel, I found out lots of people give it a lite sanding to have a better finish.....lite as in 2000 grit. Which is what I'm using. So our disagreement was purely based on misinformation.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html

Have you ever tried using this paint? They aren't tint scratches.

Either way it still maintains a glossy finish. I started this post for help not to start an argument. If you cant answer the question then please don't reply.

Thank you

ENGINE ENAMEL????? Why would you use that??? Its not meant to be sanded at all!!! That is paint only for high heat stuff! Wow. Why would you go with that instead of just regular Dupli color? That is the mistake. That paint is flat, and wont buff or gloss at all. Its just not meant for that.

Actually it is working perfectly. After sanding it still has a nice mirror like gloss. Like I said the only problem that there is, is LITTLE TINY SCRATCHES. You should really read before replying. I was looking for an answer not criticism.

I just finished sanding my body with what I think is 2000 grit sanding foam block thing. It doesn't say what grit it really is but, I compared the foam block and normal 2000 grit sand paper and the foam block came out as the finer grit.

The paint I used was Dupli-Color engine enamel, acrylic polymer. And it's a rattle can. I know that many other forum members rather not use rattle cans...buuuut, thats all I got. And Dupli-Color worked perfectly fine for me as a paint.

The problem I have is the sanding. The foam block I used has left little tiny scratches that I rather not be there. Now I'm pretty sure that a wet sanding can get rid of this but, I'm hesitant.

I just want to triple check that a wet sanding is what is needed.

Thanks for the reply I went ahead with the sealer, and it worked perfectly. It took about 1.5 hours including drying time.

I'm refinishing a guitar that I built. I spent all the money that I could on paint, so I can't spare anymore. I was going to use bondo (as was suggested to me by the guy that taught me how to build) to fill in the mahogany grain. When I tried this, it didn't work. The bondo would not fill the grain. So now since I don't hve any grain filler, sealer was suggested. After researching different forums, I got a even mixed result. It seems it was 50-50 in for and against.

So now I come to the experts asking; Can I use sealer to fill the grain of mahogany?

Wow some people have huge lists....kinda looks like this is just a "name good guitarists" thread.

Page got me wanting to learn guitar. Satriani got me wanting to play fast. Hendrix got me wanting to play on acid. Robert Johnson got me wanting to play the blues.

There are a lot of good players out there that I can easily name of that make me want to keep playing, but the names I listed were pivotal in my guitar life.

Thank you a lot!

To the 20 or so people that took a look at this post....Is this truss rod, in your opinions, better than the common ones that are just a single unbent rod....

Any comments on this?

http://galileo.spaceports.com/~fishbake/strat/truss.htm

his page is great and more than informative

+1

I was talking about wood in general. When all is said and done a one piece is far more superior than a multi "ply" body. Even if the multi-ply has good grain and such. Your still adding a chemical to a natural piece of wood, its going to affect it in some kind of way.

So glue doesn't matter. I was under the impression that it alters the vibrations. Any vibration would be more consistent when it is going through one piece of material-in any case. When you add another piece of wood (i.e. mahogany back and maple top) the vibrations then go through the maple, altering the tone. When a substance like glue is added it, once again, changes the sound of the instrument. This is because of the density of dried glue-it is different then wood (obviously).

You don't need to even finish a guitar before testing this, just knock on the wood and you'll hear.

If all your doing is making a guitar look its best then, by all means do what you need to do.