sb guitars

I know this was discussed a bit before, but I'm still looking for some answers on the topic--more direct answers too.

First: Can anyone hook me up with some?

Sencond:What would it's lifetime be?

3rd:What about wear?

fourth:I'm looking to spend no more than 20...is that plausible?

Earlier I had posted a topic about "the engagement guitar"-and now i cant find it. Anyways-after too much work, i have finaly come back to the guitar, and i've got an update. I will no longer be using a snakewood fretboard-too expensive and to complicated (design wise). Instead i am not sure which fretboard wood i should get.

the update: the neck now will no longer be all mohagany-instead it will me mainly moh-with purple heart and maple. the laminate will consist of 7 pieces moh/purp/maple/purp/maple/purp/moh.

the body is moh with a maple top seen below...since the neck is deep set i am torn between showing that its deep set and not. however i would like to make a tobacco burst, so i dont know how the deepset will look with the stain...any thoughts?

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/970.jpg

nevermind the snakewood neck---remember the question are....what kind of fretboard and should i show the deep set neck(route the top (maple) to show the neck on the body......please help

I think the whole age thing is underestimated. A seasoned (or any type of experienced) business person, would love the chance to get supplies from a person that meets the minimum requirements of signing a contract. on a side not anyone who is under the age of 18 when signing a contract is not legaly binded to the contract.

and of coarse i'm jealous who wouldn't be. lol good luck and i wish you the best

i found an ebayer selling that guitar-and since im building a near copy of it, i asked him for the dimensions....but unfortunately i forgot to ask about the thickness. my guess is that it is 1 3/4 inches. if your building one, make it as thick as you want! if you really want the exact thickness go on ebay and ask a viper seller-if you don't have an ebay id, then just ask me.

I like the idea of a GOTY contest. And I disagree that the most expensive wood will win it. Even though it did not win GOTM one of my favorites that I have seen so far was the Shovel Bass. No expensive wood there, and it was VERY original. There is an acoustic that won a few months ago. Nothing fancy on it. And it would be kind of nice to see how the winners stand up against each other.

thats why i said its debatable----but what i was trying to say was the tele contest would have the same shape for everyone-the only major difference would be the wood. sorry for not describing it better.

HAHAHAHAHA, i'm number one on page three! Sorry, i have been considered to be committed

It's not a good idea-there is no way of knowing that guitar (A) would be "better" than guitar (. Some basic differences would rely on wood choice, so, it would make sense that whomever had the most expensive wood "wood" win.

I'm sure a bunch of people would say "not necessarily", but that is debatable. The gotm we currently have suits anything we need.

I'm making a deep set tennon neck, and i was wondering if i could do something like this:

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/untitled.jpg

Kinda more like what you would see on a thruneck tho

I guess the real question is: how far can i contour...thickness etc...

I'm sure that you can get them at a hardware store. If they are the screws then you shouldn't have a problem finding them at a store.

you like a good jam track? take a lisen to sixth string down----clapton, srv, bb king, freddy king........

hmmmhow do you post pics

go to photobucket.com and register---it's free. then you upload your pics to your account. those pics will be saved to your "portfolio" under the thumbnail of your pic it will list a bunch of links. i think the one you want id direct link....copy and paste-then, your done.

Sorry, I assumed you were not going to use a router table.

You can do as you described... The template would be against the table and you'd still need a bit with the bearing to follow the template, which would place the bearing at table level, not on the end of the bit. You'd have the entire length of the cutters across the thickness of the body that way, though. However, you could control the cut depth by making a thicker template.

The bits I use are a 1/4" shank, 1/2" straight bit with the bearing at the top of the cutters (i.e., not at the tip), 1" or so cutting depth, and a 1/2" shank, 1/2" straight bit with the bearing at the tip, about 1 1/2" cutting depth.

what about no bearing-instead template for a template-ummmm like a casing that acts as a bearing that alows the it to poke through. it can act like a bit but is attached to the router instead of the bit.....not sure if my words are painting a good enough picture.

You don't want to route the whole thickness of the body at once.

You'll probably want to attach the template to the top of the blank and let the router base rest on the template. In which case, you'll need a bit with the bearing at the top (as opposed to at the end of the bit) so the bearing will ride along the template. You only need to route a portion of the thickness with each pass, then you can lower the bit and allow the bearing to ride along the depth you've already cut, rather than the template, for the next pass.

I have a bit as I described above, and a bit with the bearing at the tip. I make the first pass or two as I described, then flip the blank over and use the other bit for the last pass from the back of the blank.

can't i put the router in a table. 1:put the template on after cutting a rough cut 2: place the body template facing down 3: then carve the rest of the body

shape

what bit are you using anyways? size flutes etc...?

what about this one? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...,46168,46171#pb

i just cut out my body template-now need a router bit of my own-i used to use a friends, whom i can't get in touch anymore .

so, wich bit should i get. btw the template is of the body, so i know the bit needs to be no more than 2 inches with a ball bearing-but after that i'm lost.

please help

good job. how much of the work did you really do. not to be negative but there is no way that you completeted this yourself. you just said your teacher is finishing up one as well. how much did he do...really?

hi i have a les paul dounle cut body with a 25.5 scale, the bridge pickup cavity is already routed in the correct position. My question is if i wanted to add a neck position pickup cavity how far should the the 2 cavities be spaced apart?

thanks,

Adam

to my understanding, it doesn't matter ow far the pickups are-there is no set space-it all depends on you. i could be wrong-lets see what others will say

UPDATE...

here are the pieces glued up

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/S6300453.jpg

another angle

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/S6300454.jpg

the other side

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/S6300455.jpg

i don't have a planner, so that part has to wait. there looks like theres a chip on the first pic-but its just a piece of maplethat got stuck

here is the shape ontop of the wood----its going to be damn close--i can always scale down the shape a bit

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/S6300456.jpg

go into a hobby shop and ask them-thats what i did. where in canada are you?

I need to find a place where i can get some truss rods-dual action-IN CANADA. stupid government trying to tax something that belongs to me, that happens to be comming from the states!!!!!!!

so what are the differences in flat and quarter sawn necks-i know the difference in milling but not with music properties

I have decided to make two necks. for both of them will have dual action truss rods and carbon fiber rods as well. this should make it as stong as it can be--- is this statement correct? thoughts?

Robert Johnson-If I Had Posession Over Judgementday

Muddy Waters-Rollin Stone

John Lee Hooker-I'm Going to Shoot you Down

Mark Knoppler-Sultans of Swing

David Gilmour-Murder-Comfortably Numb

Jimmy Page-In my Time f Dying

Matt "guitar" Murphy-Sweet Home Chicago

Jack White-Catch Hell Blues

Satriani-Satch Boogie

I never saw a table saw being used as a jointer also. and the gaps on the pic seems huge!

what kind of glue have you used? and i would have done it with the glue line in the middle (considering that a nice joint was made). a 2 piece body seems more reasonable to me since your wood was wide enough to do it. and I disagree on the 3 piece sounding better than a 2 piece.

lets see some more pictures!

the picture was before the clamps were postioned and tightened. it makes sense that 3 piece is more true to a one piece body-being that there is no glue line in the middle. the glue is still drying(12 hours old). and the joints look very very tight- i would have continued if they weren't. ....and i used poly urethane.

we should discuss this in a new thread and see what comes up-my information came from a luthier from gilmer woods

please someone help with this.....

not sure what you mean....

but anyways----my neck wood-i really need some opinions and help on a decission. here are some pics of that wood

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/S6300452.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/S6300451.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee242/sbmann/S6300450.jpg

CAN THIS BE MADE INTO A DEEP-SET NECK? I HAVE TWO OF THEM AND I WAS WONDERING IF ONE WAS ENOUGH.....