ansil

well I understand which is quite rare. but I don't understand why you don't think it could be done that way see if that's how the les paul is wired. I mean we're subbing out single coils for hun buckers other than that. hell just go down to your local switchh shop they have stuff like this all the time.

are all these pickups active??? if so then its not really a problem the old three pickup lespaul black beautys had a special switch in them that gave you bridge, bridge and middle and neck as the three options. check out the wiring diagram for the three pickup lespauls and you will see what i mean. ciao hope that helps

have you potted it yet

if you change your eq and make it switchable. ie not your eq you designed but your standard marhsall fender style as they are all close enough for rock and roll. you can switch from normal marshall style placement to right after first stage for a fender style. it does wonders for the tone and with a few relays or ldrs or what have you its quite easy to acomplish. have the master volume after the tone stack and you get the same basic marshall fender layout.

with a little tweaking all those circuits you mentioned are really similar.

then you would need more than one pot or a dual gang triple ganged to do more stages. this way i can get multiple stages and even reverse the middle and boost the outside ones. all sorts of things. but yes you can do it with a pot.

here is the bass resonance control i cobbled together using a plexi schematic i found on the web. i do not own this schematic. this is just one of the ideas i was talking about. also you can do this on one stage or more or all of them. something to think about for future referance

decide what freq you want to be the cutoff range. 70hz use the rc filter formula to find what cap you need for your pot. if its 500k use a .0047uf in series from pickup output to pot or switch depending on your wiring diagram. http://www.muzique.com/schem/filter.htm i have been using this trick for years and its ootw

ok sorry for the vague post i was at work and android phone is going south on me. i should have been more clear, curtisia i was actually addressing the topic starter, i actually agree the passive eq will indeed be tricky but doable.

what i was going to specify is that for bass control utilizing something like a couple of ldrs leds capacitors and a dual ganged pot to change the cut off point of the cathode filter section.of course this will affect the gain as well but not as much as you might think.

since i don't have the values for this amp i will use say a Marshall as my example. a typical plexi 2.7k and .68uf gives you a low end response around 86hz. if you were to say apply this with a larger bass cap similar to channel one which is usually around 220uf you would exponentially lower the freq range even beyond the guitars range which would help fill out the sound. this is easily done with a capacitor/ldr or cap/vactorol in series and that circuit paralleled with the original resistor cap. as you turn the pot up you increase the led brightness and blend the second cap in. increasing the bass. and decreasing it in reverse order.

mid range negative/positive feedback you can build a simple lrc bandpass filter and feed the output section through a larger power resistor into the circuit and then blend via a larger pot back into a positive or negative feedback stage. you can also set multiple ranges and filters and blend them accordingly.

high end trick, if you take your first tube stage and come off the cathode, into a mosfet or any gain device all we are trying to do here is boost up some of the original high end before clipping and feed it into a later stage in the same phase it was before, you can do this without the ss device but the fet keeps the negative feedback loop problems from coming into play as much. also you can use a typical Marshall filter like a 470pf/470k style filter for that 720hz push substitute your values in there and put a pot instead of a resistor or a pot and a resistor and you can tailor the high end to your liking. hope you have fun with it. i have never put all of these in one amp before but i have used every one of these in one amp or another. ciao

ed

Its a little more complicated, but have u ever thought of more unconventional tone controls? I'm driving now but I'll post again later

looks awesome, and very well thought out

i tried to reply earlier in the thread but interfacing with my phone was problematic for some reason. the whole parallel idea and switch to hb for leads is crushingly awesome btw. parallel hb was my main sound for a few years with a recessed push pull pot kicking into series hb for leads and more over-driven tones. if your going to be cutting the pick guard or getting a new one that is for a full size hum why not add in a hot rail sized pickup and a single coil to go with it. you get the rocking hot bridge hum that we all crave and still can get a true single coil sound in the in between settings. a simple mod can allow you to even hook it up to an emg81 style preamp [if that's your bag it is mine lol] and so you get the normal

5. neck

4. neck middle

3.middle

2.slightly askewed bridge sc and middle

1.bridge hum bucker only.

if you don't use the middle only position you can actually use a four way and make it simpler. it works really well, and you can use any of the hot rail cool rail whatever set it as high or low as you wish and its the most versatile system for a single coil style guitar i have seen.

just my .02.

or you could pull the bridge pickup and wind some more wire on it and re pot it.

oh i forgot to add a push push pot is a fantastic idea for strats and depending on your usage last for a long time. i had one on an 80's Yamaha that i beat to death and still worked when i sold it five years later.

what about something like a hot rail? and rip the single coil from bridge the neck pickup for a bit better balance

goovy man i love it. reminds me the time i hacked my peavey nitro with a dual gang pot so that as i turned down the volume it gave me coil cuts. that and a bright cap gave me some wicked tones. i might just have to use that one again.

have you ever cranked up the voltage on a marshall to about 140? very nice, indeed but again like you say its not sustainable as it will strip of the filaments coating. however you can wire it up to do the same thing, i built a clone like this years ago and its one of my favorite tones. still a ppimv is easy install easy to reverse and won't kill your amp. is it exactly the same as a cranked up amp.. no but its one of the most popular mods done to that style amp.

amazingly enough not one person here mention ppimv since the valve king is basically a marshall clone. perhaps you should check that out

yes, and sorry for the late reply i thought i did this on my cell phone. some time ago. it all depends on pickups but most the time yes quite a bit brightness with a 500k. the reason i asked about a tone control is that even on ten it robs some brightness. so even if its just in the circuit on ten with a simple resistor and cap it will help tame some high end.

my guess is that indeed if the preamp is not receiving the voltage as stated above then i am unsure. however looking at the schematic and the previous ones i have seen they do not use that type of jack on the mix plug. it is a highly elaborate switching jack. i had a similar problem with my brian moore the original jack went out and it had tons of pins and wires on it. i looked at the option of replacing it but settled for a rewire instead as it fit my needs and i didn't have the time to wait for a specialty jack

Good deal.yeah those ics are terrible. Tge mil spec ones are beter. I made a little perf board design and a relay ti use regular dual opamps. Couple that with a computer header pin set and a dip socket and your good to go

very cool man i love this idea

very well could be but if the same schematic i am looking at here is yours then i would look into the m5201 replacement. they are quite sheit and noisy. raven and kustom use them as well.

you can build a simple audio probe check out geofex.com

as far as a preamp goes. you can utilize a single lm386 wired up with inputs grounded and the output will be half the voltage supply so you would have your typical voltage bias use a dual or even quad opamps as they are pennies on the dollar and use those for the amplifiers. you could even use cmos hex inverter for 6 preamps since they are not cascaded into each other the noise level should be quite low. as far as a circuit for it goes you string a pot from output to negative input and set your gain by that. throw in a few caps for freq control and your off and running. if your strings are tuned at a specific freq range then i would try to tailor the freq range of the preamp to that range you will get a much more effective driver section then as its only amplifying what it needs to. ie if you have say a high e string of a guitar which is roughly 329.6hz there would be no need for less than 300hz amplifiying

i can draw you up something if you like. are you using one preamp and multiple drivers i take it. also the 386 can handle up to 22 volts on some of them. at 9v they can get squirmy.

use a single lm386 to provide you with a stable v ref and try a tlc 2262 mosfet opamp

very very very nice my friend. this far surpasses my string box i used to keep on my amp to do stuff like this. i want one now i just need some money. if i was wearing a hat i would indeed be taking it off