Sethmetal

Wilkinson makes some greta products. All parts and schaeller have good stuff. Then there is the floyd rose.....Kahler my personal favorite is the Ibanez Edge as far as fixed Don't know

Locking tuners clamp the string so you don't have excessive string winds around the post, or string movement. Sperzel, gotoh, planet waves all make versions. They are not necessary on locking trm guitars, but they don't hurt. They will improve tuning stability on all other guitars.

Awesome thanks

Ebay should have some second hand. Otherwise I'm not sure of availability in your area, but I'm sure there is. If you end up with humbuckers Make sure they are 4 conductor, so you can coil tap. As brian's sound is often a single coil. That's the beauty of humbuckers.....simply connect only one coil and you have a single.

Straight out....the StewMac stains are worth every penny! Home depot stains don't absorb into wood...they coat it more or less. In my experience. Stew mac is the place for stains. I use rattlecan clear for headstocks so far. I haven't even buffed them, and got decent results (As long as your spray technique is good) I am currently finishing a body with the same material, and it looks good, but I have yet to polish it (or anything for that matter) Check out the "painting questions answered" post on the top of the page. Lot's of good info. -Seth

Ohhhhhh Thanks -Seth

Ok here's my dream. I use a midi pedal board to switch from clean to crunch to heavydistortion, to hi gain lead with delay....and so on.... So why not just do all the switching in one movement???? I think it would be cool to put a midi jack on the guitar with a small circuit board that assigned midi messages to each position on the switch(probably encorporate the switch into the board) i.e. Midi message 1: bridge in Series Midi Message 2: Twosingles in parallel Midi Message 3: Neck in Series Perhaps more midi messages could be asigned to make more selections possible than a 5 way. Obviously this doesn't work for everybody, but for my and the rest of the midi savvy I think it would be a great tool for our busy hands. Give me your thoughts and if this would be possible ....maybe some help. Thanks...The laziest shredder on earth

Would you need to use a deep fryer for vegetable oil application? J/K I agree I have used tung oil on several instruments and the results are stunning. I sand the instrument through various grades of san paper ending on 320 or 400 grit.....maybe 600 if I'm bored. Then I apply the tungoil. let it cure for a day....sometimes half a day if I'm excited(probably should wait a day though). Then I buff it out with 000 grade steel wool and finish with 0000 grade steel wool. A few times I have reaplied and steel wooled it again and that helped to get a little smoother finish. I have done some necks for friends and their oiled hands dirtied up the neck. I simply rebuffed with 000 and 0000 steel wool for a refresher. That's just my experience, but Highly Recomended. -Seth

Oh yeah, what type of paint is in the rattlecans at home depot? I'm using a clear coat rattlecan ....I hope it's not poly. -Seth

Your post really answered a lot of questions for me.

Never seen one, but I could use the same thing, except a 4 pole. I figure if they're gonna add another pole, why not 2 I'm always looking for things that aren't made. If I come across such a pot I wil post it on here.

Thanks for the help, but to answer both replies... 1. A regular tele switch is technically a 2 pole 3 throw, I need a 4pole 3 throw 2. The link shows a megaswitch 2 pole 3 throw, it is confusing because they make a 4 pole 5 throw, but their 3 throw is only 2 pole like a standard switch. Thanks for the help, but I'm still stuck. Maybe they don't make this switch, but I don't know why. I've found several uses for it. Thanks -Seth

From what I have experienced, maybe you are too close to the neck with your saddles. There is a "proper" length for each string and it probably isn't that short. Like they said you can't intonate a guitar very accurately without new strings or without a prallel bridge. I believe you have gone past the sweet spot. In my experienc, it's seems possible for the note to go sharp.....sharp.....sharp....sharp....then flat (With retuning of course). I think there are different ranges depending on the string and gauge. I probably sound crazy, but I've experienced this before. Pull it back all the way back and try again. It takes patience and rather small adjustments. You might want to check out the Key-tool set for the Floyd Rose tremolos. It makes intonation a breeze. It will be well worth the effort in the end. -Seth

Anyone?

Setup Wise I meant, Do you have a Humbucker in the Bridge, then a single in the middle, and a single in the neck (H-S-S)? Or Do you have three Singles (S-S-S)? That's all I meant. Dang, I checked on the Seymour Duncan site for Brian May pickups. They said they can make them but they are $120.00 (US) each. That it pretty steep. Single-coil wise the Dimarzio's that I mentioned are about half the price of the Brian May model and should be available in your area. Dimarzio has a ton of other singles and I'm sure there is something to suffice. Dimarzio customer service is really helpful. Let em' know what you want and they will help you. -Seth

I may be really off, but I saw that no one was responding, and I don't want to leave ya hangin. First off did you know that Brian may has signature model pickups (I'm not sure who makes them....and I sure hope they're not the kent armstrong ones you speak of) I'm not sure if the pickups you speak of are humbuckers or singles, so here are my suggestions Brian may uses single coils from what I have seen. Perhaps a Dimarzio Humbucker from Hell would do your job well (it is a dual coil full-size that has the brilliance and clarity of a single) The Dimarzio Tone Zone does a good job of both of your sounds desired(As far as I've seen) For single coils try a Dimarzio(Ok -I'm biased a little) HS-3, or Pro-track. The first being the lighter sounding, and the later more of a screamer. I think to get the sounds you are looking after, some switching may be required, either to different pickups or series/parallel in the same unit. Tell me your pickup configuration (H-S-S S-S-S H-S-H etc.) and your switching controls and I'll give you my best suggestion. In the meantime checkout www.Dimarzio.com They have sound clips for certain models...that might help Oh yeah I think Seymour makes Brian's pickups I think they are called the tri-sonics and they are on his Guild signature models.

I'm sorry I didn't even make myself clear. I want to do a glaze coat. I guess shellac could work. What about a water-based lacquer. That way I would have more to use for the topcoat. By the way... How would a yellow glaze coat on the edges of a blue stained body look? I assume it would turn green....correct??? Thanks-Seth

Awesome- That's what I needed to know. Great, you don't want my child uncreated child. It was the best incentive I could offer. I guess I've got some work ahead of me. Thanks so much.

I'm just full of questions today. What kind of lacquer should I use to mix with my stew mac dyes??? I finally got a small air gun from Harbor Freight (That place rules). Where can I buy a good clear lacquer...Home Depot? Kragen? Victoria's Secret? Jack in the Box?....mmmm foooooood gotta go, -Seth mmmmmmmmmmmm foooooood

Ok I'm not the only one in a pickle now. Is it advisable to use chemical strippers to remove the sealer on the saga PRS kit? What type of chemicals? Or if sanding is the way....What Grit??? I offer my first born child to the Savior of this dilemma. Thanks -Seth Small Print: First born child offer subject to cancelation without prior notice.

I have been in need of a part for a while now, a 4pole 3 way blade(Strat style) I only use the neck series, bridge series, and would like to have the neck in parallell in the middle. 5 way switches are too finnicky when your trying to switch from a harsh and trebly ascending scalar run to a smooth and round sweep picked passage. Where can I find such a switch. I know they make toggle style, but I want the blade. Someone help.

wHAT GRIT PAPER WOULD YOU USE TO SAND THE THROUGH THE SEALER? i AM IN THE SAME BOAT. wON'T SEALER STILL BE IN THE PORES? tHANKS -sETH

OOPS

I'm a rack man myself, who is in love with midi switching. So most of my mess is off the floor, but I feel your pain. But I have helped build a few pedal boards for efficiency. Try stacking pedals (instead of one, try two levels like stair steps. The space under the steps is great for pedals that you don't hit and for power strips.) I would purchase a powerstrip/surge protector with a fairly long power suply cable and room for wall warts. They sell these at computer stores. Configured your pedals that would suit you best, rocking pedals like the whammy and wah on the lower level, and less active pedals on the upper. Start with a piece of board as the base, and build a box on the back half for the step. place the power strip in the box and drill holes for the cables to go to the pedals. I like to strap all the wall warts to the power supply with velcro or zip ties so they can never come off. I drill holes through the bottom and zip tie or wire the powersupply down. I do the same for all the pedals. Then simply run the power supply to each pedal and connect the signal path. If you want you can make a box for a lid. I have also made 30-45 degree ramps to mount pedals on to make them more comfortable. When you're done hopefully all you see is your pedals and all the power supplies are hidden in the box and you can get short cables to keep things looking simple. Have fun with it it's all about making something that suits you. I always try to leave a slot or three extra for later expansion. As far as the noise, noise gates are an excellent solution. Rocktron's hush pedal is cool as well as boss's version. Best of luck -Seth

There should already be a wire that runs from the back of the existing volume pot to under the bridge. The pressure that the screws force between the bridge and the wood should be enough to hold it in place. It is basically smashed between the bridge and body and this is enough to allow contact. Without this wire, your guitar woul hum and buz like crazy when your hand did not touch the strings. Essentially what it does is ground the strings and bridge so that your body won't be the ground. I wouldn't stress too much, your guitar should already have this. They should come with it. Oh wait....you said it was a copy. Ok if it has a tremolo bridge and not a fixed bridge, the ground wire gets soldered to the spring claw for the tremolo. -Seth