Primal

For the sake of the guitar building gods, at least practice finishing BEFORE you burn it Matt! At least all that oil will make it burn better! ;-)

I don't see a big problem with the cupping... Just looks like contouring to me.

But, you could always use it to practice finishing using Tru-Oil. I can tell you, even though its super easy, my second attempt was waaay better than my first.

Southpa, if you look, the tuning he gave was the tuning you gave only backwards (high pitched strings to low pitched strings), and he probably just left out the # on the first C he listed.

watkins86, the best advice I can give you is to keep an open mind about tunings. No one says that you have to use standard tunings.

See that guy on the right? That's me.

I have multiple personalities. I am both at the same time!

Windoze desktop, Mac laptop. Can't wait for the inevitable port of Mac OSX to x86 machines (yea, I know, they use Intel chips now, but hackers still have to deal with the BIOS issue and whatnot -- its only a matter of time before I can run OSX on my desktop).

A pack of a dozen 0.82mm (or whatever it is) Dunlop Tortex picks last me about 6 months....

"Mein Deutsch ist Scheiße."

My German has s**t would be, "Mein Deutsch hat Scheiße."

The ß (pronouced es-tsett) represents "ss."

Doug, Tru-oil can actually build a finish, where as from what I understand tung oils (unless Waterlox is different) won't build a finish. Tru-oil can give you a SUPER shiny finish if done correctly.

When I use tung oil, I use Formby's (because that is what is around here), however I am a HUGE fan of Tru-Oil.

Ich heiße Chris, und ich bin zwanzig Jahre alt. Ich hoffe Deutschland diesen Sommer besichtigen. Seid ihr nach Deutschland gewesen? Deutschland ist sehr schön, besonders in Bavaria.

Not too sure if "besonders in Bavaria" is correct.

The only difference is that the neck's coils can be split to get a single coil sound. Seymour Duncan should have a diagram showing how to wire them up.

Yea, I'm no electronics expert, but I'm assuming you were talking about how LPs are wired so that the two volume pots interact with each other. Anyway, the answer as to why your LP jr came with a linear pot is simple: Epis are the low budget guitars, and as such Gibson doesn't feel the need to differentiate between the models. Why order log pots for their one line of LP jrs when they can just grab out of the factory parts bin?

Thanks for the clarification unk. Makes perfect sense now that I think about it. I probably didn't think about it much because I've dissected the neck pickup in my Epi LP and turned it into a sustainer driver, thus I don't have the problem of the two pots creating a voltage divider because I'm only using a single pot (maybe I should replace it with an audio taper pot... I've been meaning to get a 1meg pot).

Your Epi has a linear for volume? Thats odd, because the human ear hears volume in a logarithmic way (take a look at the decibel system). Therefore, using a linear pot for volume will give you a perceived volume change that is greater in the lower end and seems to increase in volume less quickly as the volume knob is rolled up, hence why there is such a thing as an audio taper pot, to make the change in volume more even to our ears.

yep, both 500k, normal convention though is 500k log (A) for the tones and 500k linear ( for the volumes.

Someone please tell me if I have the A and B the wrong way round!

Also cap values: 0.022uf or 0.047uF caps are common in HB guitars.

You do have 'em backwards. Volume pots should be logarithmic (aka audio taper), while the tone should be linear (or even audio tapers... the pots on my Epi LP seem to be identical).

Seymour Duncan's website has some excellent diagrams.

Are the side markers the dark pearl? If so, you may be able to carefully drill out the old markers and replace them with some lighter material. Even if you have to spin a drill bit between your fingers for the higher frets, in my mind it would be better than altering the inlays on the face of the fretboard.

For a guitar or amp/other electronics device? It seems like there was a discussion awhile ago that basically said those fancy caps weren't worth it for a guitar, but were for other electronic devices.

Yes, you would probably want to move the ferrules back. I would be hesitant to have the angle the strings break off the bridge be any more extreme than the angle when using a stop tailpiece.

Would it work? Yes, but a locking roller bridge would be pointless unless you have, as they mention, a vibrato unit.

Go with the standard, cheap Gotoh TOM.

The staggering of the ferrules on the SZ is merely for aesthetics.

As for themetalhankey's question about why TOM bridges are angled, its because the adjustment range of the TOM bridges are so short that in order to get all the strings intonated, it must be angled. ALL TOM bridges are angled, not just ones with the strings running through the body.

Yea, ouch, LJB is rough, haha.

The rules don't apply to tutorials and the GOTM thread. And, this is neither one.

That's funny

how would i wash my dvd player's socks?

Du wascht die Socken deines DVD-Spieler.

S'all good, its just murder on people with dial up.

Looks good, but please read the picture posting rules. Only one picture per post, the rest must be linked.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=11235