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aMpaGe

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Posts posted by aMpaGe

  1. Hey Gabe,

    Sorry to hear of your frustration, I know exactly what you mean....no one around here stocks anything either. That's why I had to risk mail ordering some.

    The quilt that I ordered from Flamingoveneer.com is simply stunning. They didn't give me exactly the dimensions I asked for which required me to do some stuff I am not really comfortable with, but I can't complain about the veneer's figuring.

    I also ordered a ripple quilt which is sort of a cross between a quilt and a flame. The figuring isn't really consistant but they sent me a bunch of it so there are some good spots that can be used, even as a one piece top.

    Seriously, I would call them and explain what it is you are after. I'd bet they get you something useful, or have them send you several sheets to pick from. It's pretty cheap and they ship quickly.

    I spent $50 and I have premium quilt to do 2 full guitars with headstocks, plus I've got all the other stuff which is enough to get maybe 3 or 4 more good sets out of.

    I agree about Flamingo. I did about 5 hours of google searching and various phone calls. Other than thewoodwell.com which is one of the ONLY sites I've found that sells GUITAR INTENDED veneer bookmatched sets, Flamingo is the only way to go. I just ordered a bookmatched set of some pretty insane looking Quilted Maple:

    http://flamingoveneer.com/comersus414/stor...p?idProduct=164

    The guy I talked to on the phone was TOTALLY cool and very helpful. I told him exacly what this was for, and I got exactly what I needed. The veneer is roughly 1/30" thick. I got a bookmatched set, (2 pieces roughly 20" high x 8" wide) for about $30. It is some of the best looking quilt I've seen. They just got it in, so you might want to hurry before it is all gone.

    If you call them, tell em Nate sent you! :D

    Flamingo Veneer

    408.374.9315

  2. Hi,

    I have used the clear nitro from StewMac, and I am happy with it. I have not tried reranch yet, but I will. As for oil/alchohol vs water based dyes, I have used only water based. And it does pop the grain a bit. But that is curable with a light sanding of 320 grit sand paper. oil/alchohol will not pop the grain. I prefer the water based because I can use the sanding process to create some effects. This is pure opinon, not fact.

    One thing that I will say is that I do NOT like applying colored nitros to the unstained wood. I don't think that it looks as good. I prefer the old fashioned approach: Stain the wood directly.

    Enjoy,

    Guitar Ed

    Thanks for that. As for the aero Nitro Black paint... It is going to be sprayed onto the back and sides of the guitar, which has been treated with 5 coats of sand sealer (with overnight drying and sanding in between each coat), and then sprayed on top of BIN's white primer. Should give a nice glossy sheen.

  3. Wondering if any of you guys have had any experience with the StewMac aerosol Nitro paints and Nitro clear gloss products?

    13oz StewMac cans are only $9 bucks, whereas ReRanch sells 16oz for $13 bucks. It is a slight price difference but when buying 4 cans it adds up.

    I am ordering all of my finishing supplies tomorrow, and will most likely go with the StewMac stuff unless any of you

    out there have used BOTH products and can say for sure that one is of higher quality than the other?

    Also looking for recommendations on stains, for those who have done veneer caps or stained bodies. Not sure which is the easiest to apply. The only thing I have read is that water based dyes will have a tendency to lift the grain of the veneer, and take longer to set, whereas the alchohol based does not lift grain and cures faster.

    Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  4. That is looking sweet so far wOOt

    Be sure that the front of the body is a little rough though when you glue the veneer on so the glue has plenty to get a grip on. The veneer itself should already be porus enough to hold the glue so no problems there......

    I was going to lightly hand "scour" the top with several passes of 80 grit sandpaper using a sanding block to roughen it up, and give the glue a nice rough surface to adhere to. Do you recommend the Titebond II glue for applying the veneer?

  5. 1/16" of an inch is just about perfect. I was looking at physical samples today at a local WoodCraft retail store. Met a REALLY cool guy who just started working there, and he has been building and finishing guitars for 10+ years... he really knows his stuff. He has a BIG shipment coming in.. thuya burl, quilts, zebras, and he is going to call me when the come in and let me hand pick which one I want!!

    After seeing the varying thickness of the actual veneer (impossible to gauge from eBay auctions) 1/16" - 1/32" is absolutely perfect. It is very pliable, bends very easy, and can definitely tolerate between 3-5 LIGHT sandings in between stains.

    BTW. I am currently in the process of doing a project on an Ibanez 7 string RG7621 that I bought used. It was really beat up when I bought it, and the guy even carved some words into the back. I have the body completely stripped, and it is now in my garage with it's 4th coat of Sand/Sealer drying ready to be sanded with 320 - 400grit, and then painted with the BIN's white primer shellac.

    Photos of the entire process can be seen here:

    http://home.rmci.net/ampage/project

    I also scalloped the fretboard from 21-24 and you can see that here:

    http://home.rmci.net/ampage/project/scallops

    I am not sure which veneer I am going with yet, but that is a long ways away, at least 7 days before I will be ready to do that. I am taking my time, doing this right, and allowing everything to completely set and dry, and being completely **** about sanding and getting the prepped product as close to perfection as possible. I think the key to a wicked looking guitar is all in the prep work of the body... that, and a LOT of patience!

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