truerussian558

ive redone the frets they look a lot nicer btw in the picture leveled, but ive rounded them, and i have made a lot more progress so dont post old pics.

stewmac suggests 6 feet for a guitar....you will have some left over though...i used almost all of 6 feet for my seven string i used 4 ft and it was on a classical width neck.... i have enough left over to redo one fret, but i wasnt generous with the extra bit, i try to cut right next to the fretboard right away

yes fretwire is quite cheap and about 4 ft shal give you more then enough, (stewmac sells them in 2 ft things and lmi in 4ft rolls),

if its in jpg, and its biger, just measure the nut width(or any other known very precise distance) and just scael the picture (or cad file whatever) until the nut width maches what the specs of the guitar are.

and are backrouted with no pickguard

no telecaster+tornado=telenado telenado+bass= telenado bass

i broke about 10 blades cutting my body out of 2" alder, then i realized i didnt tensiopn it enough and that i was pushing too hard, so i tightened the blade, went a bit slower and im still using the last blade.

use the offcut to make a pretty trem cover, it will look classy.

what your asking for is bookmaching, and i dont know exactly what you use.,but more then likely it wood prove to be expensive to buy the saw. I would call around cabinet shops and wood suppliers around your area and ask if they can book match a 1" thick slab of walnut and ask how much it costs. Btw book matching (in case you didnt know) is when the saw the wood along the side and open it up like a book, and the grain turns out to be mirrored which looks particularly nice

you could always try too look around for the patents, call the patent office, check the 'bay, look on the internet and maybe even call b.c. rich and ask

yes it is strange, but thats how companies make money, the go out of business when rich collecotrs tell them too, and then rake in the 200% profit, but doesnt this belong in the auction rant forum?

OMG a new project is born, a telenado bass!!!. perfect.

go classical, dont place any dots excpet for the side dots, because your wood is too darn beatufill, plus if you play and sit correctly, your not supposed to see the front of the fretboard.

well stew mac sells humbuckers with a gold cover for just under 50 each, i dont know how good they are, but it is my second choice for the one im getting (after a duncan Pearly gates, aobut 80$). they sell one without a cover for 37, so you might want to look into finding cheaper covers, or getting them at a later date

you guys missed the best alternjative, a scroll saw. it is powered and move the part you are working one instead of the tool, plus its useful for small jobs, like making your won truss rod cover and other more presice jobs that a bandsaw cant do or you risk cutting your fingers off, or it being not precise. also its better because you can cut shapes out aof a block without going in from the sides (like for making templates), you drill a pilot hole and then take off the blade and replace it through the pilot hole, quick and easy.

what about that guitar shaped like africa, in hiscock's book

well the way i did it and i wont recomend it, but because im a cheap bastard, i marked out the places on the nut and used my scroll saw to cut the slots, and then work it with a general nut file (or a very thin file) but if you have the money, stew mac has some assorted saws in extremely thin kerfs so you cna precisly cut the exact width you need, but these only go up to . 025 which is too thin for most strings except for the 1st and econd string and maybe the 4th so you would need to use a file anyway, they also have a handy dandy clamp for working on nuts. then they have their files which come in almost every size and are extremely expensive for even making one nut (about 70) so you probably would want to go with a general nut file. like this, but as this is your first project then these specialty tools can rack up a lot of money, especially if your gonna need new specialty tools for almost every job (i.e fretwork). it is genralyu recomended to make use of what you have and only buy the esssentails as you wil;l end up spending more money for the tools alone then to get the job done for you at a respectable guitar shop.

but you dont really need to go through the trouble it isnt exactly a big difference, i would go with the audio taper mind you, but i wouldnt be dissapointed if i had the linear taper, it really doesnt make much of a difference.

where i got my wood, it was planed, cut to size and it was on a copuple of boards all for a grand total of... 4 dollars. just check with where you get your wood, i got lucky because wher i got it they also mill their own wood so the have all the equipment.

some peopel are lucky, mine mainly oncentrates on everything home, and a dinky isle with tools.

check a radio shack (yes it is crappy but chances are it would be there) and check your local electronics/computer store, but in theory this should be quite easy, so good luck and tell us al about it when your done

what newbynewness helper will ibfourms think of next. lol jk plus i think its better for people to know what the command actualy does, and then you can do funky things like linkable images.

well then you got yourself a good home depot because mine only sells boxes with assorted bits, and it is a big one just that i dont think they concentrated on woodworking materials as much because id say 80% of the population are progaramers, and never actually workied with wood

just go to your local hardware store and look at the router bits, there are a lot of bits that do these kindof funky things with them, or with some planning you cold use a combination of bits, and alos check online

next time use [code] and [img=www.imageurl.com/image.jpg]