iskim86

weird how I don't see a sticky on this....

???

I made this in class....

more pics here... (along with some of my other art)

http://washington.facebook.com/album.php?a...amp;id=10715185

it's been scaled down to exactly 14.58% of the original. it's basically a Jackson RR with a modified top wing and an elongated ESP headstock with an all-access joint. I'll make a real guitar just like it one day.

bump and COOL!!!!

1 5/8 = 42mm

1 11/16 = 43mm

that quilt maple burst is BEAUTIFUL.

wouldn't it be better if it had good wood and crappy hardware? that what I really hope for...

That would be fine if the thing didn't cost $400

There's a Grizzly showroom in Springfield, MO, which I'm half-tempted to drive down to just to check out their luthier supplies. Unfortunately I'd probably blow $75 on gas, so that's probably not very realistic.

yeah, that's true. i would expect it to be more expensive if it had good wood... $500 and over

Do a search in the forum for the thread. I think someone got one not too long ago, say Jan. or Feb. If I recall, they use veneer on their tops vs.. say 1/2 or better stock prior to carving. The kits look tempting, however, I'm sure you'll want to swap out the hardware and pickups. Then again, they can't be any worse than the popular Sega kits.

Good luck with your choice.

I searched the forum a bunch of times and only ever found one reply related to a completed Grizzly kit ("It's awesome!"). There were a few dealing with initial impressions, but that's about it. This is the only site I could find that had any decent pictures or information: http://www.accelerationtech.com/tiger-eye/main.htm Again, nothing there about a completed project.

For the money, I wouldn't expect them to have solid tops or anything. However, I WOULD expect them to have reasonably decent hardware and electronics. I wouldn't want to shell out close to $400 for a kit, and then have to spend another $150 on upgraded electronics and hardware. Might as well just buy an Epi LP and be done with it.

wouldn't it be better if it had good wood and crappy hardware? that what I really hope for...

i heard they're a lot better than Saga kits but it's not first hand information

my saga came with a bent fret. anything has a better neck and fretjob than a Saga.

you could make it out of ply or anything then line it with that foam stuff or any sound proofing material

yeah i'm gonna pad the inside with mass-loaded vinyl, but i want extra isolation

i think i'll go with MDF

I'm looking for materials to build an amplifier isolation cabinet...

I was thinking plywood, but then I thought there's gotta be a better material to use. the goal here is to isolate amp sound from outer noise.

what materials transfer sound the most ineffectively?

do you guys think it's a better idea to purcahse a Dremel? it has more uses so it's a bigger bang for the buck, right?

I have an older Dremel that runs on batteries, I'm thinking of replacing that one...

http://www.tylertool.com/skil23.html

?

i'm not looking for something very expensive...

thanks

I think Fender uses belts.

you can also use chain i guess

or sandblast it!

you should just keep it and mess around with it or keep it like that for the hell of it.

looks neat!!!

that sounds like a real pain in the ass!

since I don't want to radiu my frets, would this be a good choice?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Genuine-Fender-Jumbo-G...VQQcmdZViewItem

hey iskim86,

i dont have experience with refretting fretboards, but i have some experience making them. The only tools i have for fretting is a hammer, a small block of wood ( a small rubber mallet would be much better to use) and a piece of mdf cut to the radius of the fretboard. Now, I dont know what you would do to go about taking out the frets without ripping the wood bad, but to get new ones in shouldnt be too hard to do with the tools i listed above. I generally order 6 ft of fretwire from stew-mac, and then i bring it to my bending jig, which is simply a piece of mdf with a Convex curve of the fretboard radius on it, and a slot running down the center just a bit wider then the tang of the fret. I bend the frets by hand until it fits in the jig, with a very similar curve to it ( its not hard to do and doesnt take too much time, just be careful not to bend it sideways). After i have my fretwire bent, i start on the first fret, and line the fret up so i can cut the fretwire with only a small amount of extra fret on either side of the board. then i place my wooden block on top of the fret and carefully tap it in until it is snug down to the fretboard, and continue with all the frets. then i file down the sides of the frets level, and then bevel the edges by hand. Hopefully that process helps you, if not im sure someone else has ideas.

That process made an almost perfect fretboard for my guitar, there was only 1 slightly high fret on the whole fretboard.

Anyway, hope that helps.

LeviJames

thanks for the reply. your procedure sounds a lot like the method shown in the fretting tutorial at the project guitar site. how do i make the MDF template perfectly curved though?

also, stewmac sells the frets in 2 feets lengths. would it be enough for a 24 fret neck?

thanks

make it an archtop

and it's too late for an exchange because I already filed the fret ends down (horrible fret job so i touched it up a bit)

so since i can't return it anymore I should just use it to practice fretting.... (unless I send it in and they don't notice that I filed the fret ends down) and the frets are too small for me anyway

I don't want to spend a whole load of money on something I rarely do.

what are the bare minimum equipment I need?

I obviously need fret wire. I have access to a mallet, but no press (i'll just hammer them in maybe). i got my abrasives

I just don't have a way to bend these frets or crown or level them.

what else should I use?

Hi folks,

Very new here, have recently started building a Saga Les Paul kit, noticed there were a few other people either doing or having done the same. Have managed a basic build, nothing missing and everything works (or at least it will do after I resolder the jack socket ). My plan is to get everything basically working and playable, and then disassemble and shield cavaties, paint/lacquer and maybe upgrade some bits.

There are some pictures here of the bits and pieces so far.

I have a question, hopefully someone can answer - the neck seems OK, but doesn't seat fully in the body - it protrudes about 3 or 4mm (close-up here: close-up ). Looking at other Les Pauls this doesn't seem right (they seem flush).

Should I

1) remove a few mil from the heel of the neck (eg, sanding ?) ?

2) remove a few mil (somehow) from the body where the neck joins (eg, sanding ?) ?

3) live with it ?

4) something else entirely ?

One other thing, there is plenty of electrical buzz until I touch something metal - is that likely to be a shielding issue, or a grounding issue ?

Apart from this, the only real pain has been deepening the nut slots to get the thing to play in tune, but I'm pretty much there now on that.

Any advice greatly appreciated !

Thanks!

you need to leave the neck like that. real pauls have necks that are glued into the body. the saga kit has a bolt-on construction. unless you're talking about the gap between the body and the sides of the neck? how's the action right now?

and i think that would be a grounding issue. check solder joints, and if you can, just resolder everything or get an electronic overhaul.

hope this helps

i don't know...

the assymetrical V is the most comfortable shape to play sitting down.

i'd go for the V.

i'm just wondering if i can spray primer over a body that looks like cow hide. throughout the body, some areas are bare wood and some are sanding sealer. is it ok to go ahead and spray or should I try to get rid of the sanding sealer completely? I ran my fingers through the transitions and it doesn't seem completely level (sanding sealer parts are obdiouvly a wee bit higher)

how do you get your neck and fretboard so cheap??

he's trying to hide the blemish on the lower horn.

maybe you should just leave it, and let the finish age naturally by human contact

in other words.... time to play your ass off!!