iskim86

standard gibson type, 48mm width

pm please

???

just an opinion, but unfinished necks are more playable than a thin one.

i used a piece of mahogany to fill my neck pickup route.

I cut the mahogany so it fits the hole. of course, there are going to be a places with no contact. I fill those holes with wood putty (fill between the side of the mahogany and the side of the route. then I sand down flat, and fill in the shrinks between the putties (heat will shrink the putty) with epoxy, then sand down flat again. then I put a veneer over the body then do the rest

next time I'm filling in a route, I'm gonna route out a bigger, deeper cavity in the body (basically making the pickup route bigger) so that I can fit a piece of wood that fits better.

i wonder how it would sound?

if I layer alder, mahogany, ash, basswood, bubinga, koa, and maple and glue them all together, would the sound characteristics for each wood blend into each other? i don't think it would make much difference really, but I wouldn't know.

opinions/comments?

Hi board,

I am planning to make a custom guitar body to go with a Warmoth Pro 25.5'' 22 fret neck. The body will be flat top, with Gotoh tune-o-matic bridge with string thru body. Generally I want to know the best strategy for calculating the routes for pups and bridge relative to the neck pocket. Here is my bunch of questions:

1) I guess I should go with a standard strat neck pocket, meaning it will be flat bottom (no neck angle) and 5/8" deep (from top of flat top body)?

2) So if if I want to get away without a neck pocket angle, I understand that I need to recess the bridge, but how much?

3) How do i calculate how far away from the neck the bridge should be? I guess it needs to be slightly angled so how is that calculated? Naturally this is defined by the scale of the guitar....

4) How do I calculate the pup positions? I am planning to have a neck humbucker and a bridge humbucker...

5) Does anyone know of some place where I can download templates that would cover some of the above which I could just print out 1:1 and use to make my mdf routing template?

6) I plan to position the string thru body holes at the bridge in a "fan" formation so they will not be running perpendicular to the bridge (i.e. in a sense the tension on the string is not pulling straight thru the bridge saddle pieces). Will this cause any problems in tuning etc...? I just think it would look interesting.

Once I have all this worked out I will make a template in mdf to see what it looks like and to route from.

Any advice much appreciated:)

i'm not an expert, but....

1) yes.

2) approximately 5/8", but a bit more for the anchor to fit, and because you can always adjust it later on.

3) it is 25.5" on the high E string. that's all i know, someone else can chime in on that.

4) do you have another HH guitar? just use that to measure and make a template.

5) no, but if you google it, you can find a lot.

6) no tuning problems. only the string between the nut and the saddle matters. the only problem i can see that'll be apparent is if it's too angled, the string will bend a little past the saddle (in the scale)

nevermind, found out that i don't need

probably been asks so many times but the search function isn't showing what I wanted to see so i'm asking again.

does it?

My first inclination was that you were doing it to a curved body. Was it properly clamped with even pressure along the whole body? Do you have any pics?

yup, but as for curved, the body already had the edge curves, not a new body with sharp edges and stuff. sorry, no pics.

I know their trems are of exceptional quality, but howbout their pickups?

How thick is the veneer and is it a flat surface its going on to?

it's standard thin veneer... 1/16"? flat surface.

You havent given enough detail as to exactly what you are doing? Pics?

i was gluing a veneer to the top of the body.... following the tutorial on the projectguitar website

i'm guessing it's just the electronics? the rest of the stuff are just standard bass stuff...

why is this happening? I try not to let the veneer roll up too much before adding pressure, and apply glue to both the veneer and the body, and it cracks at the edges. am I not giving enough spare veneer at the edges??

thanks........

other than the saga kits, which are basswood (i hate basswood), what other places have J-Bass bodies for cheap? I'm looking for alder or ash or mahogany....

thanks!

i don't think warmoth makes neck-throughs...

Doug from Soulmate Guitars. He's a member of this board.

wow!!! :D

those are some gorgeous necks!!

I only know Stewmac and Carvin right now, any else?

thanks

i'm thinking about getting this sander.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Too...t.aspx?id=26606

and what does a 1/3 sheet finishing sander do? are these optimum for sanding between coats or something?

cool! thanks a lot for the input, folks!

any brands I should stay away from/stick to in the future?

and as for a router, what features should I look for? do I need a jig if I want to make pickup or control cavities?

thanks a lot...

and how is this black and decker router?

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/ref=b...asin=B000IEFIBO

on this page:

http://www.target.com/gp/browse.html/ref=s...;node=277196011

there are the black and decker random orbit sander kit, 1/4 sheet sander kit, 1/3 sheet finishing sander.

which of these is the most suitable for stripping and finishing?

Finally got around to finishing the frankenstein project. I need to paint the neck and headstock black as it looks out of place. Maybe a little lightning around a fender logo. I also need to find some black knobs to finish it off.

Painting a fender logo on a squire wouldn' t be very popular around here though...

edit: forgot to mention though....awesome airbrushing skills.

Wouldn't bother me !! since its been mentioned I was thinking , lose the squire logo and fit a fender one with out a serial number. To keep everyone happy keep the squire stamped neckplate.

or maybe switch the position of the fender and squier logos? so make the fender logo big with a small squier logo on the bottom