iskim86

It's all personal tastes from experiences, but I'll machine buff after flattening back using P2500 grit. (wetsanded)

I use a buff on everything I possibly can, and hand cut everything I can't reach .

When hand-cutting I'll take it to P2500 grit also, but it obviously takes longer to bring up a good result when hand-cutting.

cheers, Stu

thanks. what buffing compound should I use right after 1000 grit?

the very first step is to of course plan it out carefully, making templates or making measurements carefully...

measure five times, cut once.

since my budget is low, it's probably better to smooth the finish down by hand and buff in the last stages, right? so what grit should I hand sand the final poly finish before moving on to a fine buffing compound?

thanks

oh yeah i'm using the elmer's brand wood filler, I think it's used primarily to fill small cracks and such... it's yellow color

i just realized alder does not need grain filler. oops.... but there originally was when I sanded it down.

ok so I sanded down my body to the filler (i think?) and the wood is not smooth - all fuzzy and "peach-like". this is probably bad when I have to spray primer over it right? so I'm guessing I need to use wood filler to fill these holes. how would I need to apply it and sand it down?

thanks

Ive got an idea. keep that guitar, practice finishing and wiring and practice set ups. Save up and buy a decent axe or build your own (even from a kit its likley to be better than the behringer.)

i thought this was obvious

use it was firewood and get a new guitar... or even better, build one.

Your local lumber yard should have one in conjunction with StewMac. Some parts will come from both. However, they're in slightly rougher form than the Saga kits in that you'll have to cut, plane, mill, and shape your own wood parts/lumber.

Chris

*buys beat up gibson LP*

I just got this sweet idea of a new project, and it'll be a home-made Les Paul. but first, I need to look for a Les Paul set-neck kit to work on.

anyone know where I can find such?

thanks

um... water-based stains and clear water-based poly?

other than that, the guitar matches his shirt and hair

i'm using this tutorial to guide me through this: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm

I don't want to use any other wood because i'm concerned about shrinkage/expansion due to climate etc... but i'm really **** about everything. is this not a concern? if not, I'll be up for anything really.

check this out on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...p;rd=1&rd=1

i ordered one for myself. this guy's got a lot of waterslide/decal stuff... check out his other acutions

Out of most of the Mahogany, but still have plenty of Maple and Basswood and Hide Glue. I just added some Ribbon-Striped Mahogany veneer and will be adding a lot of Limba neck blanks and some strips and tops next week.

do you have any more of the mahogany veneer?

I just want one sheet big enough to cover a strat-style guitar body.....

Got them!

as the title says, I'm looking for a block of alder big enough to fill a pickup route... preferrably around 2" X 2" X 4". i've looked on ebay and other guitar building sites, and they don't seem to have it this small... i just need it to fill a route.

oh yeah i'm also looking for a sheet of cheap veneer, doesn't need to be that expensive, I just want to use it to put it over my dinky body to further conceal the pickup route and the control routes.

thanks!

What kind of guitar is it and how old is it? Also, is the current finish the original finish? It's more likely than not that it's a poly finish(this does not mean polyurethane as you would find at a homeowner's store but rather a catalytically cured automotive coating). If it is poly, you should be able to get away with spray can primer and paints from a local automotive store. I've used duplicolor's products before with good results. Be sure to use duplicolor's "scratch filling sandable primer" and not their regular "sandable primer." The stuff you want is gray, I believe. I've had some awful results with their other sandable primers that are red and black, I believe. If I were you, I would buy the paints and test on a section of the guitar that still has paint on it to see if you get any sort of negative reaction. Worst case you have to sand off a little bit more paint. It may end up saving you time though.

peace,

russ

it's a 2005 MIJ jackson DXMGT. it is the original finish.

before checking this thread I already sanded the majority of the finish off... i might just finish the job while i'm at it I think.

well the reason i am asking is because the hardware store nearby has mostly enamel sprays... I'm looking for something more durable... something better overall

thanks for all the input!

i don't know if the original finish is poly so i guess i'm sanding it all the way through....... that should take some time.

just rough them up. Knock the finish down so it has some tooth and the paint will stick.

the original color is red.

I'm planning on painting it arctic white

will it show through?

can anyone please answer my first question? I don't know if I should spend additional hours to sand the sides down....

thanks

see tutorials on site

i read this tutorial: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showforum=31

and i have some questions:

1. which of these types of paint offers the most bang for the buck?

2. which is the most easily accessible? (i don't have a car - i'm a college student)

3. which one of these come in spray cans?

thanks a lot

so ur sanding off an existing finish?

what kind of finish is already on the guitar?

what grit sandpapers do u have/using?

are you sanding by hand or by powersander?

red sparkle type

just a solid color with some poly over it. i'm using a 100 grit

by hand

and on a few places I went in the edges too deep so now the edges are gone, it's like a small contour.

one more question:

when I'm sanding the sides down, the wood is exposed on the outer edges (the corners) a lot earlier, and in order to expose the wood near the center, I have to sand a helluva lot and it kind of eats up the wood near the edges. is this normal?

what if I leave the sides of the body half-sanded and rough? and if not, why do I have to sand it all the way down to the wood anyway?

nevermind!