iskim86

i need just one sheet, if anyone has it, please pm me

thank you!

sand down headstock

paint it black

make ibanez decal and stick on

finish finishing

so for the sides of my body, I decided to use chemicals instead of sandpaper. so I opened my bottle of lacquer thinner and use my brush to brush it on, but it evaporates in mere seconds. how would I deal with this? did I get the wrong stuff?

too late and it'll lift some paint up and give rough edges

You might be surprised how close to perfect you can get it with hand sanding.

i think i stayed on one area for too long. :mad:

in blog format

*url removed temporarily*

i think i'll keep all updates in the blog

palm sander

haha i bought one from harbour freight and im still using my neanderthal method

are you using a low enough grit to do a quick job?

and make sure you periodically get the particles off the sandpaper too.

I'll leave your first question for someone more experienced with finishes, but I suspect it might be some kind of sealer.

As for making the edges of the bevel sharper, just round them off a little with sandpaper.

that would probably make some areas imperfect, right?

sucks to be a perfectionist

first, what is this translucent layer of white stuff under the primer? my body is alder and when completely sanded through, it is a light brown color... but on the front and back of the body, after I penetrate the paint and primer, there's this layer of yellowish stuff on the body... and it makes the body really nice and smooth and bright. what is this? is it just a thin layer of primer before it gets penetrated or some sort of wood filler thing? (i don't remember seeing this on my previous body... this is a MIJ jackson DXMGT body)

second, you know what smell bevel on the edges of dinky bodies? what do I do with them? I realized as I'm sanging the side, I'm kind of going through the bevels and making the edges sharper. should I use a chemical stripper to avoid sanding the bevel down to an edge? or is this a problem every refinishing processes face?

thanks a lot.

first link doesn't work

is this something I can use? I already have a dremel. the router bit comes with a sort of bearing for the channel depth, but I still need something to define the width of the binding.

palm sander

thanks a lot! I'm going for a humbucker in the bridge position for death metal.

EMG 81 for the bridge and a EMG 85 for the neck, best metal pick-ups IMO

already have them in my ESP LTD guitar, hating the 81. passive allll the way for me.

how much will the paint process cost yoU?

the finishing process will cost uh... paint cans + polyurethane cans. $15? i have some fine sandpaper left over from a few years ago so no need to worry about that. i still have the front and the sides left to go, so that's about a couple hours of work right there.

today is my first day of work.

I almost completely sanded down the back side with a 100 grit sandpaper in about 30 minutes using an electric palm sander. next to the palm sander is a compressed air nozzle to blow away particles every 20 seconds of sanding or so. build-ups slow things down.

about half way through the wood shop guy was kind enough to show me that nifty table that sucks in all the dust

pics

http://www.bloodyvelvet.com/pics/jacksonwip01.jpg

http://www.bloodyvelvet.com/pics/jacksonwip02.jpg

http://www.bloodyvelvet.com/pics/jacksonwip03.jpg

http://www.bloodyvelvet.com/pics/jacksonwip04.jpg

http://www.bloodyvelvet.com/pics/jacksonwip05.jpg

http://www.bloodyvelvet.com/pics/jacksonwip06.jpg

wow, so much easier than sanding it by hand

hello, this is for my jackson wip... I want to fill the neck pickup route and the pot routes, but i'm afraid it won't look too good. the last time I filled routes, I used those DAP wood putties and they came out pretty crappy. so now i'm confused as to what I should use to fill the routes. I have the option to follow the tutorial at pg website (route out a block of wood and insert another piece of wood in its place) or I can use epoxy or wood filler. what do you guys think? any first hand experiences?

thanks a lot.

thanks a lot! I'm going for a humbucker in the bridge position for death metal.

if i use a jig i won't be able to get that part.... so what should I use?

in fact, what are the tools necessary to route the channel for a body binding for an electric guitar? i can't seem to find any in-depth binding tutorials

thanks

ok, so when winding a pickup for brightness, what should I look out for (what specs make it bright)?

...and you thought putting binding on a guitar was too much work...

i have all these ideas but I don't know if I can manage to execute them well!

if I make my own pickup...

the body is alder and will be tuned BEADF#B. to avoid muddiness, I'll probably have to make the pickup as bright as possible, right?

should I make it low-output or high-output? what's best to retain chord definition?

also, is it possible to make the pickup bright on the low string side and a little darker on the high side?

thanks

I use dem bones.

A few weeks ago there were some posts about making your own nut material from cow bone. Someone was nice enough to post a little tutorial on how to prepare said bone into useable nuts, acoustic bridge saddles etc. I decided to give it a whirl as a bone nut blank costs me $7 Cdn each around here. I figure why spend so much when a package of soup bones only costs about 2 bucks? I got about 16 good nut blanks from these 2 leg bone pieces. That works out to about $112, .

http://www3.telus.net/Alsplace/dem_bones/Bones%20001.jpg

Heres the rest of the pics.

http://www3.telus.net/Alsplace/dem_bones/

Gonna End Up A Big Ole Pile A Them Bones

You pretty much are just nervous because you have not bound a guitar yet. Done properly binding with platic is a quick clean method. It also provides some deal of edge protection to go along with a cool look. Get a good cutter bit and bearings and a sharp scraper. You will have a new confidense after you do a couple.

Peace,Rich

thanks for the encouragement

what are some alternate ways to do a binding other than using strips of plastic?

i'm trying to do a black binding on a white body.

I was thinking maybe just use a black tape, or paint the binding area black over the primer, then mask the binding area and paint the rest of the body white and peel the masking tape to reveal a black strip.

would either way work well?

I'd say paint is better than tape....but what's wrong with plastic`?

too much work/time consuming and it's my first time doing bindings, second time refinishing.

Routing and gluing?...wouldn't take much more time than masking and painting...But that's depending on bodystyle though..

In the end no-one's gonna ask how long it took...they're just gonna see the results.

true... but if i do it the traditional way i'm gonna have to scrape off the protruding sides and stuff too right? or at least that's how the stewmac tutorial seemed... time consuming and very tedious. since it's only my second time refinishing and first time planning on doing a binding, I don't want to stress it and mess up in the middle.

perhaps I should do a test piece...

[quote name='LGM Guitars' post='15606' date='Jul 27 2003, 12:24 PM']Step 7, ok, last step (hmmmm, and 7? LOL) while you were ordering from stew mac, you can order some swirl remover, I like to apply it with the foam buffing pad you can buy and chuck in your dril. . once you've got it all polished with the swirl remover, leave it sit another 3 or 4 days, then, put your guitar back togehter, and enjoy it.[/quote]

no buffing? when is buffing required and will using those high grits (6000 and on) have the same effects as buffing?