Nicko_Lps

i've started making a 2x10 that is very rough (i expect the thing to get thrashed over time) made it entirely from 19mm pine and its an open backed design. works well for me.

If you are starting to,and you need opinions you might check out the celestion guitar loudspeakers site,i cannot give you a link its flash site or whatever there are some usefull info inside that site you might wanna consider.

Dude,

How thick is the panel that speakers are mounted on?

My first question is, Why paint it? Why not just buy a rosewood veneer or a wood that look similar to rosewood and then stain it. Is you painter REALLY that good that he can paint something to look like actual rosewood. Before I paid someone to do that, I would want to see a large piece that they have already done, just to see what I am in for.

Yeah, that guy is right go buy a veneer.Also dunno about you but i hate the idea that a thick layer of color-varnish will be all'around on my guitar,besides that nothing can mimic that rosewood beauty except...true rosewood itself.

Go real!!!

As Setch said, you can't dye M.O.P, the dye cannot penetrate. The coloured sheets you see for sale are laminates that are set in epoxy and it's the epoxy that's tinted, not the shell. Perhaps try Doug at Parable to see if he can help - sound's right up his street.

oops!

Youre right transparent colour coat not dye.

Tolly wrong...

Would you need to? I thought the race was sealed. Most lubricants would probably attract dust and make bearings more likely to seize.

That guy above is 100% correct,also the lubricant will probably sink to the wood and if you apply a water dye that is a total menace...

Except those above,ball bearings are sealed and they have lubricant closed under the seal,im a carpenter and i have several router bits with ball bearings and i have them for many years and they dont seem to have a problem.

After 10 years if you change one its not a big deal after all...

The Base is stable when its running but the saw itself has a annoying vibration.

i dont know if we have the same tools but if you bandsaw does not stay in its place and moves a bit front and then goes back in its place, its not been welded straight.

If its that,you dont have to worry but someday will eventulay break if you have covers at the front of the blade it not a big deal if you dont, its is...

I bought from stew-mac those long aluminium radiusing blocks,they are nice to work with comparing them to the small wooden that stew-mac has is heaven!

Well if your ebony has grayish stripes and they are too visible you had to dye it if the wood is black enough with small stripes that you hardly see'em you can finish it and then apply some fast fret or gibson fretboard oil for some time to keep it black and not dye it.

Personaly i have not dyed my fretboard and it looks like black plastic but you have to have a good quality ebony to do that.

I think that you can dye the MOP with paints that they use to colour the glass(windows that called vitro?)

I tryed a week before to do with analine dye but it looked as bad as hell...

Also as buddy above said if its on the fretboard it will wear off quickly and it will look twice as bad as hell

If you find any other way,im interested to learn that its quite interesting.

Cheers

Well, Rosewood is awsome but ebony is still ebony its the desirable wood for many years.

Also if you inlay ebony you can cover small mistakes with black super glue that makes it even better,but during refrets ebony is piece of ^$%#

All that matters is what you like and what feels better to you.

Damn...

The screws at the contact point with the tremolo are so messed up and probably the trem could not return to its its original position..

Its sound sounds stupid but now it ok.

Thanks for the help.

Not good if the pivot points are out of whack. Probably should be rectified, if it's the case. Also, on a system where the pivot points are in the correct position, you really should have some lube at the pivot points. I like a teflon/graphite/Molybdenum grease for that. You have to think of it like a machine, metal on metal parts, that need lubrication to work as well as possible, but a little dab'll do ya in this case. (I worked on a guitar a while back where it looked quite obvious to me that the owner had been applying a thin oil at the pivot points and it ran down the post and soaked the wood around the pivot post bushings (this was the same guy who shimmed his neck with a thick uneven piece of plastic cut from the bottom of some plastic food container)

I used graphite grease and still nothing....But thanks for the notice

Also cancel what i have said about the center of the pivot screws,i downloaded the installation notes from the floyd rose official website and the distance from the 2 screws(center to center) as is said on the site is 73,91.As i measured the distance is about 73,50.

So i think that this is excluded now.What the..

Hi guys,

Just finished my 1st project,i used a Floyd Rose pro trem and a floyd rose nut.

For the trem i used the pivot screws and for the nut i used small screws under the claps and not those 2 that fender uses on the strats.

Now my problem is(the classic one) when i dive the trem i loose tune,when i pull up to raise the pitch it gets back in tune....

I dont know where the mistake is to the tremolo fiting on the body,but i think that the right tremolo screw is 1-2 mm left away from the touching piont center.

A HIPSHOT TREMSETTER thing will solve that problem?

no, its the worst instrument wood in the world........

can i have it?

LOOOOOL

Best reply hahahah!

Thanks guys for the info

Hey there,

Im a carpenter and i have an old stock of US cherry,

First project is done im looking for the next now...

I have 2 slabs US cherry for about 15 years in my store,now the question is can that wood be used as a maple alternative?Is it used before on guitars?I was planning to use it as a top on a hollow body electric guitar with mahogany back.

It would be a shame to use a 15 years old(at least) wood to carpentry...

Anyone that has some info about that please tell me what's goin on with that wood.

Thanks

Floyd rose is the best of the best trem floating bridge system and they dont suck sound,tone,dynamics,sustain or whatever....

And you need a locking nut 100%

Cheers

Hey there,

Building a cab your own is not a big deal,you can seek info at the celestion website in the guitar loudspeakers section.

I've read the info that celestion has avail. there i made a cab and its pretty much ok just keep on your mind that the harder materials you use

such as maple plywood 2 cm or more will not resonate with along with the speakers and that will give you a nice tight bass and not a boomy bass.Ive made my own by pressing 12mm of maple plywood and on top of it 10 mm of american white ash.

Now the real big deal i think that is the panel that speakers are seated on:how big it is,how close the speakers are to each other and above its thickness the closer the speakers are mounted to the cab the tighter the bass will be and the opposite.

Also i've used celestion AlNiCo gold speakers,50 watts crunchy gain,tight bass,amazing clean and superb dynamics.

I hope that was helpfull for you.

I was once told that working with Abalone and other materials produces hazardous dust. Is this true? How is the best way to deal with this?

Honestly i dont know if its hazzardous but i can tell you something i noticed,on my fretboard inlay i used a dremel tool with thin speed disks to cut pearl into small pieces,this way of cut produces a very thin white dust that made me for 3 days to breathe hardly i felt that i was chocking or something like that...

And i didnt do that job for more than 15 mins.I dont know if it will have the same affect on you but dont take the risk,wear the mask.

Also if you dicide to cut pearl the same way as i did be sure to wear eye protection beacause tiny sharp pieces fly and sometimes reach your eyes,and clean the surface you are working on all the time because those small pieces that dont fly to your eyes stay down and as you work with your hands above them the sink in to your elbows or arms and thats hell when youre trying to work.

Cheers

There are some buzz sanders by Rupes,all rupes tools are mostly black with orange power switch the sander is the best avail. on the market.

But the best sanding tool is a flat hardwood with sanfing paper under it.

Rupes I never heard of it in the USA. Festool is a Cadillac or should I say the Lexus of hand powered tools. I've never owned one nor see any reason to spend that kind of money on a tool that may or may not perform better than a Porter Cable, DeWalt or a Makita. Ryobi makes pretty low-end tools as well as Craftsman and Skill, three brands I avoid.

I Worked for a Company, Who Only Used Ryobi Drills. This Was a Professional Shop Using Cordless Power Drills. These drill though seemingly a good buy are Made with Plastic Internal drive Gears. He Spent More Money Replacing the Drills Then He Would of If He Had Just Bought DeWalt Drills in the First Place (they use metal gears). What He Saw Was a Cheap Drill with Inexpensive Batteries, and That's Exactly What He Got. If He Had Bought the DeWalt He Would Probably Have Been Using the Same Drills for Many Years instead of replacing Ryobi's every 6 months. This sometime really just a math solution to stupidity, or as most people just quote you get what you pay for.

I Think that’s the Point People have Been Trying to Tell People on This Forum. If You Buy a Cheap Tool, Generally, You Wind up with an Inferior Product with a Limited Lifespan. Just look on TV even though they are sponsored shows how many Sears tools do you see contractors using???

First I Would Never Look at Target to Buy Tools. Maybe If I Needed a Frame or a Pillow That Would Be the Place to Go. But Tools!

Amazon Always Has Reconditioned Tools from Major Manufacturers, I Just Purchased a Bostick Portable Compressor Reconditioned to Do a Small Job for a Friend (yeah, I didn't have a portable compressor). I don't expect to use it on a daily basis, but i really do need a compressor in the garage for inflating my truck tires, but I bought a quality compressor at a discounted price and I know it will last me a lifetime. Most people on this forum use their tools as a hobby, reconditioned name brand tools fit well within this niche. So the next time you're thinking of spending $30 on a Ryobi sander look for a $35 reconditioned DeWalt instead. The same goes with any tool, even if you're a pro. If you don't think you will use it on a daily basis reconditioned is the way to go. I always look at reconditioned tools as half my shops power hand tools are reconditioned. IF I use the tool everyday I generally buy a new tool which has a longer warranty period.

I Generally Take Tool Ratings from Fine Woodworking Rather Than Individual Evaluations. First, I like the Magazine, They Don't Seem to Favor Any Particular Manufacturer. Regardless of Affiliation. And the Reviews are Pretty Thorough. Of Course, Each Person has different opinions using the Same Tool. What you like May Not Be Someone Elses favorite tool. So You Can Take All the Suggestions and Whatever Else You Receive Here with a Grain of Salt, even mine for that matter. I Suggest Getting out on the Web and Start Looking around for Tool Reviews on Items You Want. Things Have Certainly Changed in the Last 10 Years, and I Have Already Had to Replace Several of My Tools, One Being a DeWalt Random Orbit Sander with a Newer Porter Cable, Variable Speed Model. The DeWalt Still Worked. It Just Wasn't up to Today's Standards, and because Porter Cable Decided Finally to go with an eight hole 5 inch pattern the changeover was not a major deal, because I didn't have to change out my RO sandpaper collection too.

IF you want to find a good tool dont watch the TV and dont look "sponsored ratings" on magazines.

Try to ask a wood worker that works in fast and demanding conditions.I have in my store over 8 buzz sanders the 2 are the ones that i mentioned above and i work only with these.

A buzz sander like makita,dewalt and bosch are as bored as donkey to move and sand a surface.Buzz sanders tend to leave small spiral lines on the wood that you will see only when you use water dye directly on the wood,thats why you must sand the surface(after buzzsand)with a hardwood and a sandpaper under it moving up and down from the wood grain and only.

hey,you said "look for a $35 reconditioned DeWalt instead"Just for you to know i bought my Rupes sanders 3 years before and i spent 160euro each now see that link read the specs and calculate the price http://www.rupestools.co.uk/index.php?i=61

It worths every single penny of its price,i can tell you that for sure.

Dont talk if you have no idea what you talk about.

Creers!

Hello guys,

I try to find steel rods to make a truss rod for my project and i cant find the diameter that stew-mac uses that is 4.7mm.

Can i use stainless steel 6mm diameter?,would that thickness work normaly?

Thanks.

So if you all have the same opinion you must be right i cant disagree,but i hate the way that it looks.

Can i find a closer polepiece alignment single coil pickup?

They are all the same?

Thank you guys for the replies you gave me,

I was wondering,that pickup is a middle position,so the bridge position sould have the same wide polepiece pattern or closer?

In my project i have 2 humbuckers seymour duncan and a single coil for middle so its a H-S-H setup.

The nut wight is 41.2mm (floyd rose R2) and the bridge is floyd rose pro.

The polepieces are of both hubuckers are centered good under the strings,but the single coil Classic stack plus from seymour d. is a lot wider and its not centered properly under the strings.

I know that polepieces must be directly below the strings,if not the magnetic field will stop the string faster.

I dont know how true is that,but i just can stand see the polepieces not matched.

Does anyone have an idea of what pickup i can buy and match?

Thanks,

"I know that polepieces must be directly below the strings,if not the magnetic field will stop the string faster."

That is certainly not true. I would use that pickup as long as it sounds OK.

Sorry i was a bit wrong up there,what i was trying to say is that the magnetic field helps the string to keep vibrate and if the polepieces are not directly under the string,that effect does not happen.

Im still not sure,but im not negative,and i think that i must find the propper one IF exists for the current bridge and nut setup.

Thanks though,

In my project i have 2 humbuckers seymour duncan and a single coil for middle so its a H-S-H setup.

The nut wight is 41.2mm (floyd rose R2) and the bridge is floyd rose pro.

The polepieces are of both hubuckers are centered good under the strings,but the single coil Classic stack plus from seymour d. is a lot wider and its not centered properly under the strings.

I know that polepieces must be directly below the strings,if not the magnetic field will stop the string faster.

I dont know how true is that,but i just can stand see the polepieces not matched.

Does anyone have an idea of what pickup i can buy and match?

Thanks,

Its all a matter of taste,not good or bad use 'em both and deside what you like.

On my LP i have a 490R and a 498T,i feel that the bridge pickup is a bit more trebby and i placed 250k pots while the neck has 500k.

Cheers!