KramerKrazy

I used the testers also and it works very good. The kit with the sealer was $8 but it only comes with Two 5 1/2 x 8 1/2 sheets.

I tried the straight bit in the router table thing. that didn't work right. I pulled out my cabinet making skills and used my style & rail set.

Style & Rail bits

for thinner stuff like 4 piece bodies it works great.

For thicker stuff you could probably use a stackable finger joint bit.

Finger joint bit

Either way you will get a very tight and strong joint.

This site has 8.5x11 & 11x17.Waterslide link

OK, That idea sucks. Its hard to peel in one piece. So I decided to go with waterslide decals and it works great. The best thing for headstock logo is to cut to the size & shape of the headstock. This will make hiding the edge much easier.

I have been playing with the same idea, and did some testing on an old computer case. First off you have to cut big because the edge tends to curl up. I used ink jet and lacquer and the color didn't run at all.

When I get the prosess down I will write a tutorial.

I already cut a mockup with the side cuts and I love it.

The body looks like red oak. If so it will be a bitch to paint.

BONDO TIME.

Thanks guys. I seem to agree about the thin waist the more I look at it.

VanKirk: I did start with a LP gist. I have done pointy double cutaway designs in the past and wanted something different.

To say it has any resemblance to the Leviathan, all I can say is don't I wish I were in the same groove as LGM. The Leviathan is INCREDIBLE.

just a concept for now but maybe my next build.

new concept

Any input is welcome.

Thanks Matt.

That was the 1st guitar paint job for me.

As far as painting and airbrushing, I have done flames & graphics schemes on cars, helmets, computer cases and a couple of Harleys. Plus 15 years as a tattoo artist.

It should be strong enough, if I rought a channel across the grain at hole #4 and glue in a hard piece of oak.

In that case, its off to the workshop for me.

Good point. I will have to use the tree idea, unless I can rework the dimentions without loseing the look I want.

Thanks for pointing that out.

sorry, its fixed now.

Check out my headstock design.

Headstock

I am going to start a mock-up on some scrap pine to see how it looks in person.

Anyway tell me what you think.

..........Thanx.............

......KramerKrazy.......

What I would do is get an airbrush and practice a bit on anything you have. You may be suprised how easy tye dye can be with even a cheap airbrush.

check this out.

Tie dye

Thanks

Take one of the remaining screws with you to the HW store.

Does anyone know the scale length on economy paddle head Stratstyle necks at universaljems?

Thanks guys.

I guess I'm just going to have to be patient(not my strong suit).

I can always spend some time designing more bodies, and maybe even try to get some work done on the screenplay I'm writing.

That's why I said I was using one of Brian's paddle head necks(strat style).

The distance between saddles & neck pocket should be the same on any boby that uses that neck.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I want to route out my body but I don't have the neck yet.

I am going to buy one of Brian's paddle head necks and I need to know how far from the neck pocket the saddles should sit.

Can anyone help me out on this one?

On the new yanky workshop, Norm used a two peice coller set on a router to make a ducthman patch. first it routs a cavity and then pop the outer sleeve off exposing a smaller one and then cuts a perfect patch useing the same template for both cuts.

Somthing like that would probably work for inlays.

I used an angle grinder to take the meat out of the deep stuff. Then a rat tail rasp and a two sided rasp(flat on one side, radius on the other) 60, 80, 100 & 220

grit sandpaper.

I'm not even close to done yet though.

pic

I wonder if my kramer Focus VT111S neck is the same.