I tried the straight bit in the router table thing. that didn't work right. I pulled out my cabinet making skills and used my style & rail set.
Style & Rail bits
for thinner stuff like 4 piece bodies it works great.
For thicker stuff you could probably use a stackable finger joint bit.
Finger joint bit
Either way you will get a very tight and strong joint.
OK, That idea sucks. Its hard to peel in one piece. So I decided to go with waterslide decals and it works great. The best thing for headstock logo is to cut to the size & shape of the headstock. This will make hiding the edge much easier.
I have been playing with the same idea, and did some testing on an old computer case. First off you have to cut big because the edge tends to curl up. I used ink jet and lacquer and the color didn't run at all.
When I get the prosess down I will write a tutorial.
Thanks guys. I seem to agree about the thin waist the more I look at it.
VanKirk: I did start with a LP gist. I have done pointy double cutaway designs in the past and wanted something different.
To say it has any resemblance to the Leviathan, all I can say is don't I wish I were in the same groove as LGM. The Leviathan is INCREDIBLE.
Thanks Matt.
That was the 1st guitar paint job for me.
As far as painting and airbrushing, I have done flames & graphics schemes on cars, helmets, computer cases and a couple of Harleys. Plus 15 years as a tattoo artist.
Check out my headstock design.
Headstock
I am going to start a mock-up on some scrap pine to see how it looks in person.
Anyway tell me what you think.
..........Thanx.............
......KramerKrazy.......
What I would do is get an airbrush and practice a bit on anything you have. You may be suprised how easy tye dye can be with even a cheap airbrush.
check this out.
Tie dye
Thanks guys.
I guess I'm just going to have to be patient(not my strong suit).
I can always spend some time designing more bodies, and maybe even try to get some work done on the screenplay I'm writing.
That's why I said I was using one of Brian's paddle head necks(strat style).
The distance between saddles & neck pocket should be the same on any boby that uses that neck.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
I want to route out my body but I don't have the neck yet.
I am going to buy one of Brian's paddle head necks and I need to know how far from the neck pocket the saddles should sit.
Can anyone help me out on this one?
On the new yanky workshop, Norm used a two peice coller set on a router to make a ducthman patch. first it routs a cavity and then pop the outer sleeve off exposing a smaller one and then cuts a perfect patch useing the same template for both cuts.
Somthing like that would probably work for inlays.
I used an angle grinder to take the meat out of the deep stuff. Then a rat tail rasp and a two sided rasp(flat on one side, radius on the other) 60, 80, 100 & 220
grit sandpaper.
I'm not even close to done yet though.
pic