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imunwell2

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Posts posted by imunwell2

  1. did you win that guitar in an auction? you intel employee?

    what is the story?

    I bought it off ebay about 2-2.5 years ago. If it sells for $700, I lose money. If it sells for $1100, I make just a little bit. The guy I bought it from said he won it. I e-mailed Gibson before I bought it to see what kind of info they had on it, and they told me that the SN matched up with a promotional item. My wife and I collect stuff from Hard Rock Cafe', so we thought this would be cool by all the shot glasses and stuff. We've been to over 30 different Hard Rock Cafe's. I have two other guitars that were limited edition hard rock cafe guitars, one acoustic, and one electric, but they are epiphone's.

    Need anymore info let me know. I think I have a copy of the e-mail from Gibson printed out somewhere. In addition, I think I have the info from the guy I bought it from. Only thing is, I've move since I bought it, and would need to look for it.

    Take ER EZ! :D

  2. Thanks guys!! It was a lot of work, but it was fun to learn. I really like how it turned out too.

    skibum5545,

    I got about 40 hours in just cutting the pearl and ablone. Then about 40 hours in cutting the wood and setting it into the wood. Then I had to mask it and paint it. Probably about 160 hours total. If I could charge like $2000 dollars for something like this, it would only be like $12.50 per hour. Not such a good return. Although I think the next one would go a bit quicker since this was my 1st, and there was the learning curve. B):D

  3. B) hey i wsa wondering if anyone new how to router a hole to inlay mop?

    i know that this is problaly a really dumb question but i want to bulid a guitar and i have some really cool desins for a inlay. :D

    I used a dremel. You can get some real small bits.

  4. These are pretty crappy pictures, but they are the best I do. These are TONS better on my 35mm film. In the actual photo, you can see the wood grain through the transparent candy red.

    I suppose I should say a little something about it.

    1993 Gibson LP Studio

    Ebony Fret Board

    Pearl and Ablone Inlay

    Transparent Candy Apple Red

    Fret markers are diamonds B) Looks real cool too.

    Good Luck to Everyone!! :D

    project_guitar_contest3.jpgproject_guitar_contest4.jpg

    Here are some others.

    http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/im181owne...tar_contest.jpg

    http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/im181owne...ar_contest1.jpg

    http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/im181owne...ar_contest2.jpg

  5. If you are putting inlays on a cambered fingerboard how do you compensate for the fact that they will stick up towards the edges of the fingerboard?

    You'll need to be sure the inlay material is thick enough, set the inlay then the edges that stick up will need sanded. I had to deal with this a lot on my LP that I put the body inlay on.

    Here is an example of what I mean. Weather it is concave or convex, it is the same concept.

    http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/im181owne...ing_example.jpg

    Good Luck.

  6. Thanks a heap.

    I have been practicing with some good results and I have also learned some techniques to be avoided.

    It is meticulous work. My eyes don't bug, but my fingers do sometimes cramp.

    Lots of taking a break.

    Getting the proper depth on those pointy parts is a lesson patience.

    Thanks again Buddy, couldn't have done it without ya'.

    BuddyCrop.jpg

    No problem, glad I could help. Feel free to email me if you can't catch me on here. I'll try to get back to ya as soon as I can. I usually don't mess with the inet on the weekends. My PC at home is still on dial up, and drives me to using words that are rated R.

    Talk about maticulous, the guiar part of my inlay is in two pieces, cut about in the center of the neck part. It took me 3 hours to set the bottom piece. That was the hardest part of the inlay. It had so many curves and points on that one part that made it tough. The other parts didn't have as many areas to fit. The very bottom of the outer celtic part took the next longes time. It was a challenge, but it was also fun to see it come together. Keep us informed, and good luck!

    :D

    P.S. Unlike cutting the pearl, when cutting a point, cutting the pearl, you would want to start at the point, when cutting the wood, cut the wood going into the point out first. Gives you room to work with the Xacto in the point to make it a real nice fit.

    Another thing, once I etched the design on, I used the Xacto to go around and cut a wedge out. First cut straight down on the etched line, then cut an angled wedge from the side the pearl will lay in. This will give you a better bearing on where to cut. Helps to prevent unintentional cut of wood you didn't want to cut. Don't try to cut too deep, you will eventually have the blade lock up, then slip, and cut wood that you didn't want to cut. Or you may cut a finger. :OUCH:

    You can kind of see what I mean by a wedge in this picture on the upper parts. http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/im181owne...itar_inlaid.jpg

  7. I remeber reading that you did most of it by hand with razor blades and exactos(?)

    How was cutting the tight inside curves?

    Did you use a different tool for this?

    I can bend a razor and get shallow curved inside and outside cuts but I am having trouble with the smaller inside ones.

    What I used was Xacto blades that were pointed. I also used a dental too that I filed to be like a very sharp spatula. The tight curves were not too difficult, just time consuming. I suppose that would imply that they were a little more difficult then the rest. What I did was use the Xacto an made a bunch of hatch marks in the shape of X, then use the spatula to dig it out. Since you can only safely cut so deep, I had to do this a few times to get the pocket deep enough for the inlay material. With larger pieces that have many curves, like the bottom part of the guitar I done, it will take some time to get it to fit down in the pocket. Just take your time. I hope to start working on the tutorial soon.

  8. http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/cinlay.htm

    Is the link.

    Really what you need is the graver, the graver handles ( I have since started using them again) and a good filler material. Either inks, or wax type paste.

    I saw that Luthier's Mercantile offers an engraving guide recently, although I have not had a chance to read it yet.

    I am pretty confident in my technique, but I will read it. You can go to their site and look up engraving tools. It's in that area.

    Here is the shark after even more inlay was added, and I did some more engraving, added the gills, etc.. The luthier put a big scratch down the blue material with a fretsaw, and I had to repair it. I did that by using liquid CA, and adding the little silver dust "plankton" and a few fish to add to the scene over the damaged area.

    You can't notice it now. .

    newblueshark1.jpg

    I added the gills (don't know how I forgot THAT the first time!! :D

    and some nose detail.

    I also added some chimera shaped fret markers out of gold and black pearl to "join" the one up top to the blue shark at the fingerboard end.

    It makes everything look more cohesive. The gold edging is counter-positioned to the black, as far as refractivity goes, so they have a ton of flash as the fingerboard moves.

    chimeramarkerboard.jpg

    fullchimeraboard.jpg

    Here is the upper chimaera again as well... All the whit spots are engraved, as is each individual piece to add contrast. chimera.jpg

    Craig

    Now that is good stuff. YOU ARE THE MAN!

    Oh, thanks for the link!! I'll look into the tools after I read the tutorial about 10 times. B)

  9. Interesting bit of info for you - the 'blank' guitar without the inlay work on, but complete with all hardware, lacquered and finished probably costs Jay Turser around $40 with the quantity discounts they get !

    I've had price lists from some of these far eastern no name manufacturers, and they can do most superstrat type guitars with quilted or flamed maple veneer tops for under $80, and that was for only buying a small quantity from them - lets you know what sort of quality these guitars are.

    I often get accoustics from these factories in for repair as the necks always warp after about a year, or the tops pull up around the bridge - in most cases I just tell the owner to throw it away and get another one as the repair will cost more than the guitar is worth.

    Hey, thanks for that bit of info. Making me feel better already. B) Maybe I can do a little of this on the side. :D

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