madhattr88

Here at Martin we used weights to simulate string tension, by supporting the lower part of the body and under the nut. I've been doing something like this, only cause i think dan erlewine's stew-mac jig is total overkill and way to pricey. I finish my necks and bodies separate, so after i have the neck / fb together (before fretting), I place a temporary pre slotted nut on the neck and attach the neck to a "dummy" body with 4 screws. The body has a wraparound bridge on it already. I then tune it to pitch and adjust the rod to make it as straight as possible under string tension. I place it in the jig (pictured below) and adjust the red standoffs so they are just touching the bottom of the neck in three places. I then remove the strings and the neck goes obviously goes back where it was before tension. Now i place the unstrung guitar on the jig and add weights to the upper bout of the dummy body to curve the neck back down to the red stops (that are locked into place from before) Then flattened the fret board using the different grits of sandpaper on my long straight radius block. Remove the neck from the fixture and dummy body, install frets. Attach it once again to the dummy body, place back in jig, add weights like before. Now i fill do the fret leveling. Anyone see how this is so different from Dan Erlewine's method? Comments? suggestions??

That's the hard part. Building is easy, selling is not. LOL I've sold a couple on eBay, but i really need a dealer. Any suggestions? I wish I had a good answer for that question. I can say I don't think eBay is the best venue to maximize revenue you deserve for the time and work you've put into this build. Somewhere theres someone out there who would be willing to pay some big $$$ for this though. Carl just started a few business sections that would be good for that question. Yeah, i've been reading some of the posts in the business section. Maybe i'll start a new thread where builders can share their dealers. Problem is, don't think anyone would want to share....might steal business from themselves.

That's the hard part. Building is easy, selling is not. LOL I've sold a couple on eBay, but i really need a dealer. Any suggestions?

your eyes start to play tricks on you. i swear the queen winked at me. LOL!!!!

Its been 14 months, but its finished!!!! Even had some professional photos taken.

i wish u the best of luck. I am in the same situation, I love designing and building guitars. I hate promoting myself. Crazy hot eh? Got a picture? :-)

the starting pin is a must.....i learned that the hard way years ago. high velocity mahogany can do some serious damage!!!! LOL

So one more question about poly... Would it be better to use a preval sprayer or use the wipe on poly???

A thousand bucks for a poly finish? Or is it nitro?? For that price maybe it's French polish?

Seems like every builder has their own finishing opinions. Which is a good thing. Makes us all more interesting. I just want to do everything myself and not rely on others for finishing. And the best way for me to get a gloss body is with poly. Whether wipe on or sprayed.

Think I can shoot poly thru my preval sprayer instead of wiping it on? Would this be a better route??

Tons of great info!! Thanks guys. Do u use minwax wipe on ploy, or make your own mixture? Also, how do u go about wet sanding and polishing?

Up til this point I pay someone to spray my solid bodies with nitro cellulose. I don't like it, sure it looks great, but it chips and cracks during the final assembly process. (Hardware, neck fit, etc). Not to mention he raised his prices to $300. So I will be finishing them myself. The only spray system I have is a pre-Val unit. I have searched everywhere for info on wipe on poly and I'm currently reading Flexners book. Instead of starting from scratch and experimenting, I was hoping to find some luthiers on here that can give me a few tips. Any polyurethane guys out there? I tru oil the necks. So I'm just looking to get a high gloss on my bodies. Thanks!!!

ding ding ding!!!! you are correct sir.... Seymour Duncun P-90 Phat Cat....designed for a humbucker pup ring. ready for the bonus round? :-)

one step closer.......

GREAT JOB!!! i love everything about it! Very excited to see your technique for finishing. Please post more pics! GOTM for sure!!!!

After 4th coat of tru-oil. About half-way there.

You got it! i use 1-1/2 lb cut. & use one of those Preval spray systems. Can't beat it for $10. I don't have an elaborate spray system, so it works great for me. Plus I only finish the necks myself. I have a friend spray the body with nitro. I love the tru-oil feel on a neck though.

Two reasons. You are correct, the shellac seals the wood so the filler won't stain it. Also, tru-oil doesn't adhere well to oily woods, the rosewood center strip would be a problem. Trust me, I've had problems before. ;-) Shellac sticks to everything. So I do 2 coats of shellac, sand with 320, two more coats of Shellac, grain fill, sand dried filler with 320. Any shiny pores, means the filler didn't get in there... So I have to decide whether to do another grain fill session or hope the tru-oil coats will fill them. In this case I only did the one grain fill session. Then I'll seal the filler with 2 more coats of shellac. Sand w/320 & 500. Now I can start the tru-oil layers. Three VERY LIGHT coats per day and scuff with scotchbrite after every third coat. Total of 12 coats.

After sealing with 2 coats of shellac, I used some Timbermate Rosewood filler...here's a "wet" picture. Sanding the dried filler w/320 Two more coats of shellac, then Tru-Oil. Here's the "wet" Tru-Oil pic

no worries. i have plenty for bodies too. this pic shows about 10% of what i have.

I should be able to get a "couple" necks out of this 10/4 mahogany.

2 coats of shellac

Been slow going, but I finally got the neck fretted and installed an ebony nut.