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madhattr88

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Everything posted by madhattr88

  1. Sorry for the "not-so-good" pics. Everything went so smooth for this build, and then .......$^#*@ Drilled the bass side bridge stud too far back (1/4" off) Luckily I had a bridge hat has adjustable intonation saddles. Now it just looks odd. Plays great though!! Body - Mahogany Top(s) - Spruce, Indian Rosewood Neck - Mahogany, Indian Rosewood, Ash Pickguard - Indian Rosewood Fingerboard - Indian Rosewood Construction - Deep Set Neck Tenon Inlay - Pearl Frets - Jumbo Fingerboard Radius - 12" Nut Width - 1-11/16" Scale - 25" Bridge - TonePros Wraparound Pick-up - Seymour Duncan Phat Cat P-90 Finish - Hand Rubbed Varnish (Tru-Oil)
  2. Just wondering what u guys use to wet sand tru-oil. I've heard parafin oil, mineral spirits, naptha, soapy water, etc. Has anyone experimented with these "much different" liquids? Right now the guitar is sealed with Shellac and pore-filled Was planning on applying 3 coats of TO and wet sand w/1000. 3 more coats. Wet sand w/1500 3 more coats. Wet sand w/2000 1 glaze coat (50% TO and 50% mineral spirits) Let cure. Polish with 3M Finesse It. Comments? Suggestions? Thanks!!
  3. Hey! I've been using tru-oil for years now, but can't seem to get a high gloss like you. I read one of your posts on the forum. I believe u said u sand after every 3 coats with 1000 grit and mineral spirits. Then 1500 and finally 2000. Since mineral spirits is the solvent for tru-oil, did u ever have a problem? Just a dab of spirits on the sandpaper? thanks!

    Matt R...

  4. i've been using Birchwood Casey's Filler/Sealer to seal the wood before applying waterbased timbermate grain fill. about 3 sessions of filler/sealer and grain fill...then finish off with tru-oil (about 10 coats) the final finish has some small grey areas over the rosewood, so..... I understand that shellac (Zinsser) would be a better sealer and works great under tru-oil. Should I use shellac in place of the Birchwood Casey Sealer/Filler (using before each grain fill)???? 1. Seal with Shellac 2. Grain Fill 3. Sand Repeat 1 thru 3 until pores are filled thoughts? Comments? Thanks!!!!!! build on!
  5. Build #6 (Aug. 2011) Body & Neck - Mahogany Tops - Rosewood/Figured Maple Headplate & Pickguard - Madagascar Rosewood Fingerboard - East Indian Rosewood Inlay - Mother of Pearl & Copper PUP - Seymour Duncan Phat Cat P-90 Finish - Lacquer FOR SALE - make me an offer :-) Build thread
  6. all the bosses are aware...i even brought it in so they could see it. yes, making an acoustic would be a much different story. thanks!
  7. Thanks for the advise guys. Just to clarify....we made this guitar at our houses, not at work. :-)
  8. Finally finished this one. Had it professionally sprayed. I guess I can tell u guys that I work at Martin Guitar in the Product Engineering dept. Got tired of looking at acoustics all day, so me, an inlay artist and a finishing guy got together (outside of work) and built this beauty. Its in a local store now for $3,999. Am I charging too much? Should I put it on Ebay???
  9. Wow! Thanks guys! Competition is fierce. I love and would play ALL of these builds. Congrats to all! We need to start a store somewhere and sell these things!!
  10. Snapped some pics before finishing.
  11. Rinker Guitars - "R5" My own design (a fancy les paul jr.) Follow the "Build #5" link in my signature. Body - Mahogany Tops - Rosewood, Sapele, Spruce Neck - Mahogany Fingerboard, headplate, pickguard, heelcap - Rosewood PUP - Seymour Duncan P-90 "phat cat" Bridge - Tone Pros wraparound Here I tried to darken the background using paint.net
  12. Finally got this one fretted, dressed, crowned and cleaned up.
  13. any tricks to help locate the bridge (left to right)??? besides using the outer E strings as a guide?
  14. thanks. i was hoping to get a couple more responses, especially for those who use wraparound bridges. anyone????
  15. What stud spacing do u drill to? Ever notice that when viewing wraparound bridges on Stew-Mac, they say Stud Spacing = 3-1/4" but when u view the drawing the dimension from center to center is never 3.250. For example, the pigtail is 3.220" I drilled to 3.220" on my last build and found a lot of side-to-side slop. Is this normal??? Not a big deal when string tension is applied, but I wanna make sure i didn't do something wrong. If i would have drilled to 3-1/4 exactly, i would have less slop. So what do u guys drill to?? 3.250 or to the bridge specs???? Thanks guys!!!!
  16. I did a bunch using TO. (see build #5 under my signature) Most important step is pore filling. Then 10-15 coats of TO. I steel wooed after each coat. Very lightly, just remove the shine from the previous coat. After u apply the final coat, let it cure for 2 weeks. Then micro mesh 6000, 8000, 12000. Then buff and polish. Send me some pics of your progress. madhattr88@gmail.com
  17. I've used Birchwood Casey filler/sealer like u are using shellac now. Then applied 10 coats of tru-oil I'm anxious to see your results, because I heard the shellac is better. Any pics? ps. I used acetone to remove oils from a very oily rosewood headplate. Nothing would cure over it until I wiped it down.
  18. Just cut the slots in the bridge to have the same radius as the fretboard. i never cut the slots in the bridge... is that a common practice?
  19. I just bought mine. I kept putting it off, but really, I think its a good investment. I rigged something. It's 18" long, but the radius is 11.970". .030" shy of 12". Will I have a problem with the action since the wrap around bridge is exactly 12" radius??? I worried the middle strings will have good action, but the outer strings will be .030" higher.
  20. i've been using a 6" radius block and 12" flat block to level & radius my fretboards. I was thinking of buying the stew-mac 18" aluminum radius block...until i saw the price!!!! $125.....are u kidding?!?!?! anyone selling a used one. I need a 12" radius.
  21. actually, for this one, thinking about paying someone to spray lacquer.
  22. Didn't glue the neck yet.... Just snapping a quick pic.
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