guitardeam0n

Bump.

Possibly using a scraper or a razor? It may be difficult anyway you go about it. Paint stripper is very strong, using it along with tape will be pointless as it will just melt the tape adhesive right off.

ROFL, I'm retarded. I guess scraper/razor or something would be my best bet.

I was thinking about doing a similar thing recently. With violins, they use an oil varnish over the whole neck, then use a scraper to remove the finish on just the back of the neck, then french polish.

The only thing I'm questioning is how to get that defined line from paint to no paint. Like this- (sorry if the image is a bit big)

I'd assume the best way is to tape it off then stripper? I have a feeling the stripper could seep under the tape or something.

First question, do you have any experience refinishing or with custom painting? If you have any though about reselling this, going the cheap route with normal rattle cans will destroy any value it has. If you have to use spray cans, spend the extra money and get the Killer Cans from Alsa corp, they are at least auto 2-part poly. Refinishing it is probably going to kill any value it has. Even with the broken tip, it will still command a nice price tag, the rest of that thing is cherry. Scalloping will definitely hurt any resale value, as will removing any material off the back.

Paint stripper will definitely eat the binding. To get the heavy poly's they use these days, the harsh chemicals will go right through the binding.

My personal opinion would be to apply some lacquer to the exposed wood, to seal it off and to help hold the paint chips from getting any worse. But other than that I would leave it as is. Look at any pointed vee that is gigged with. The wing tips are always missing paint or wood. I would just leave it as is, since it will more than likely end up like that even with a refinish.

So I put my gold OFR on it and I've decided to keep it black/yellow.

And the thought of doing all the work stripping/prepping/refinishing that went into the previous projects finally hit me and made me realize I don't want to do that again.

I'll still be stripping the neck and tung oiling it or something.

First question, do you have any experience refinishing or with custom painting? If you have any though about reselling this, going the cheap route with normal rattle cans will destroy any value it has. If you have to use spray cans, spend the extra money and get the Killer Cans from Alsa corp, they are at least auto 2-part poly. Refinishing it is probably going to kill any value it has. Even with the broken tip, it will still command a nice price tag, the rest of that thing is cherry. Scalloping will definitely hurt any resale value, as will removing any material off the back.

Paint stripper will definitely eat the binding. To get the heavy poly's they use these days, the harsh chemicals will go right through the binding.

My personal opinion would be to apply some lacquer to the exposed wood, to seal it off and to help hold the paint chips from getting any worse. But other than that I would leave it as is. Look at any pointed vee that is gigged with. The wing tips are always missing paint or wood. I would just leave it as is, since it will more than likely end up like that even with a refinish.

I did a few cheap guitars years back.

And I've never sold a guitar before so I plan to keep this one for years and it will be my main gigging guitar so it'll get beat to ****.

Friend told me about it months ago and I finally had cash laying around to get it so I did. Here it is-

Here's what's blem'd on it-

It was obviously dropped. There's also this hair line crack that goes across the the top fin. I couldn't photo it on the black (auto zoom on camera wouldn't let me focus on it) But I go this-

I'm assuming the shock from the drop bent/flex'd the wood slightly, making the paint to crack. I guess I'll find out what happened structurally when the paint comes off.

800 bucks off : I could probably flip it on ebay and make some profit off it but I really like the way it plays and have been thinking about a custom finish, 24 fret, floyd, single humbucker RR for YEARS. Might as well make it happen.

I'm going to go the paint stripper method but I have a few questions namely around the fretboard/binding.

It has black binding but I'm not sure if the paint goes over the binding.

Should I strip it as close as I can do the binding then use some sand paper? I don't want the stripper to loosen the binding or something.

Another idea is to remove some wood on closer to the upper frets to make access a bit easier. Not quite a cut out but just some off the backside. Possibly scalloping the last 4 frets as well (20-24) but I'm afraid it would break the binding (I did it on a cheaper guitar once and that's what happened but I think I went to deep)

As far as the refinish idea I've been thinking about a natural flame top w/ blackhardware.

Sorta like these-

Or I can do a nice flame top like these-

http://img1.hugeup.com/f/09302008/8817147e8a3a.jpg

http://img1.hugeup.com/f/09302008/02fdb9.JPG

But might be too fancy for an every day, gigging metal guitar.

Think a very fast automatic kill switch or tremolo with a really fast gate and is time adjustable via audio pot. How would I go about this?

I know this doesnt really involve guitars but I dont know anywhere else where I could get helpful information. If anyone plays with ENGL amps, there are LEDs on the inside to make them glow.

http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums...postid=10372118

I have a 5150 I have and I took the wood panel behind the cage so you can see the tubes and output transformers. I think LED lights like the ENGL would be completley wicked but I have no clue on how to do it. Can somone please send me in the right direction. Thanks alot.

bump.

Well I was driving to a friends and saw a garage sale and spotted some gutiars. So i check it out and they had two. I bought them both for 10 bucks. They are both really f'ed up cosmetically but hopefully there is potential. One is strat body and there is wood putty all over it and it looks like the neck pickup cavity has been filled in by the same stuff. I would really like to fix her up but dont know how I can achieve a nice paint job with the current state of the guitar.

The next is a explorer type body and someone already stripped it and put a spay on clear coat. Im thinking just strip that off till its bare wood then go about finishing a guitar 'the normal way'

But the main question is how to a prep a guitar for painting. I couldnt find a tutorial for that. I know you need some sort of pore filler so the paint doesnt sink in and make little dimples on the paint. I think thats what the guy was trying to do on the strat body with wood filler all over.

The neck on the strat is decent but frets 12-22 are scalloped. There decent scalloping but the fret markers are really messed up. They are just dots but 3 frets were sanded down so far the fret markers are worn through and it looks like crap. How could I fix that?

Any help or comments would be greatly appricated. Thanks alot guys. Cheers!

Well im about to purchase a OFR from edroman and the d tuna started to get my atttention. Did a little research and found out that I would have to stabilize my trem with a trem setter.

Now that got me thinking. I play alot of wild stuff with my trem (think of the things vai does with his) and I was wondering if the trem setter makes the trem do anything differnt? Will it still pop quickly back into pitch, can it still flutter, and are there any downsizes to having a trem setter? oh and would this work when tuned in D then down tuning to C? Thanks alot.

How does the 500XL clean up when you roll back off the volume? And hows the sustain? I would probably get the 500L since it has a lower output. Would there by any sonic differnce besides output?

You are correct, by MTS i mean master tube series.

Im kinda iffy on getting a active pickup with such high output becuase I'm only going to have one pickup in the bridge. I play ALOT of sweeps so I want something that will let all the notes ringout clearly. I havent had too much experience with active pickups or any aftermarket pickups becuase around here all the stores carry stock ibanez's, fenders or gibsons and epiphones. So call I can do is rely on peoples opionon. Ive also heard that the Dimarzio Evolutions clean up nicely when roll back on the volume. Do the 81's do that as well?

Well I'm making a custom guitar (rhoads body) with one pickup in the bridge. I'll be running it through a MTS so there will obviously be plenty of gain. But I'm not sure which pickups to get. I'm debating over:

-bill lawrence 500XL

-Dimarzio Evo's

-EMG HZ H4 or 81 active

-carvin m22 or allan holdsworth

-or maybe some Seymour duncans

So since the amp will have more then enough gain i wont need a really high output humbucker. I play heavey music styles, but not the really scooped kind. More along the lines of Children of Bodom, Sinergy, Imperanon, and jason becker stuff. But I want something that has great articulation of the notes and long, smooth sustain. Can anyone help me out please. Thanks.

How the heck does damage like that occur?! Looks like someone had phone with a circular saw or something. Did the seller tell you what the damage was from?

I do like the body shape. Why dont you just trace the actual body is you want a P bass style?

Thank you guys. kinda sucks it was only 90 bucks. But you get what you pay for eh? 

Save your money and buy an Original Floyd from KrazyDerek for $155.00. You'll be glad you did

Who is the krazyderek character and how can i get a hold of him?

As for a Floyd, you could put one in I suppose, but the graphtech saddles for a floyd don't exist yet, so it would elimiate the piezo's and the midi system.

But ibanez makes a locking trem with piezo saddles right? Couldnt you use that?

I wonder if those floyds are any good. Has anyone ever tried them. If there any good it would be a killer deal.

I need a program to blow up the blueprints for a JEM so i can print it out and use it as a templete. Ive heard corel draw will do it but i need something free. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you MzI for the link to the programs.

But i do have some questions. I can find a rhoads drawing so if anyone has one please notify me.

And when i print it does it print each part then i tape it together? Thanks.

Ive been checking out the forums and I see alot of people use CAD to get plans for there guitar. Are they any certain CAD program i need to look for? Or are there any free ones out there that i can use. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Well actually i was thinking of going with koa wood then giving it a tung oil finish.

Where could i get the plans for the rhoads CC?

I posted some stuff about the custom necks on the carvin boards. Do you think the blank headstocks will be big enough for a jackson style headstock?

And what exactly is a 'drop top'

Thanks.

Hello everyone,

Im pretty new to guitar building so please dont mind me if i ask any stupid questions. Mty dad recently got alot of wood working tools and ive always wanted to build my own 'custom' guitar. Ive always wanted a rhoads neck thru with a locking trem but that would be around 1500 which i dont have. Ive heard its ALOT cheaper to build a guitar yourself so thats what im out to do.

This might sound crazy but i want a 7 string, 5 peice neck thru, 24 fret, quilt top w/ locking trem rhoads.

I just dont know where to start, so could someone please head me off in the correct direction? Thanks alot.