wardd

Don't remember the brand names there are a couple, any pro-shop guy would know from "ball plug". Now, I may of misunderstood what you were trying to do. When you say fiberglass, I 'm thinking of using fiberglass cloth and replacing the usual polyester resin with the epoxy ball plug. i.e. Epoxyglass. Be Cool, d ward

Here's an idea for an option to working with fiberglass. Back in the day, I was the Pro-Shop dude in a bowling alley. We use an epoxy refered to as "Ball Plug" to fill the holes before redrilling a ball. It is gin clear and doesn't have many of the hazardous properties of polyester resins. It has a long working time, 6 - 8 hours and you can stain / dye it with paint or dyes made for the stuff. It is super strong and not as brittle as polyester. You could go to a local pro-shop and ask if they would sell you some. It usually comes in two parts so take a couple small jars with you. You could also see if they have the dyes that go with it. Just a thought, but in my book, this stuff ranks right up there with duct tape on the useful index. Be Cool, d ward

Hellcat, Try the supplies section of the PG site. http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/supply.htm I have found lots of the wood I have via. eBay. Two places I have gotten nice stuff from are: BellForestProducts.com - Birdseye and Flame Maple, Bubinga, other exotics. They sell both via. the website and on eBay. VedderMountainHardwoods.com - Flame, Quilted and Spalted Maple. Lots of bookmatched top sets. Again, web or eBay. You are both lucky and cursed looking for wood in a 21st century world. When I got interested in luthier work in the 70's, you couldn't find a place to get the woods, now you can't figure a way to decide which is the best / cheapest way to go out of about a gazillion options. Good Luck, d ward

There’s a joke here:* Women vs. Guitars : Pretty vs. Ugly : Comfortable vs. High Maintenance *But I ain’t touchin’ it. d ward

Is this the same thing as the old Ovation Electric? It sure reminds me of it. Found a link: http://www.ovationgallery.com/pagesolid.htm d ward

TS, I thought you misunderstood me, or that I just wasn't being clear. I'm a high school teacher so thinking this way has become instinct. I think that one of the problems with any site like this is 21st century human nature. People seem to developing more and more of a mind set where if at ain't really easy and it ain't instantaneous then I ain't gonna do it. (You can tell I spend my days with American teenagers.) But, I think if new members just had a basic idea of how to use the vast amount of info that is available here they would put forth the effort to find it. One things for sure, if they can't do that much, they're in for a world of hurt trying to tackle a guitar building project Thanks for your input, d ward

Guys, Jeez Loueeze, enough already. There has got to be a better way to do this. Please, see my post on helping new members. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...t=0#entry255706 Give me some other ideas from an established members point of view. Be Cool, d ward

PG, Thanks and WOW, I have a pinned topic. Just to make sure I'm being clear, I think the rules for posting are clear and available. What I'm thinking is of finding a way to be more proactive in helping new users to find more effective ways to: 1] Know what kind of info is already available on the board / PG Site. 2] Be able to locate the info quickly and easily. 3] Know how and where to ask specific questions they couldn't find answered in steps 1 and 2. i.e. To begin to interface with the established members in a way that works for both parties. I'll try to keep updating the original post in this thread to develop something. Please leave me any suggestions you have. Thanks, d ward

I agree, that's probably a universal truth on any message board. I have another post where I was asking for input on developing a better way of informing new members as to where and how to look for info as well as to the general workings of the board. Something that could be given to any new person who registers with the board. I wonder if there is a way to do this, i.e. an e-mail or other way to send them to a tutorial on using the site. Be Cool, d ward

Here's a search trick that can help when searching the PG site. Go to Google and click the advanced search option to the right of the usual search field. You will then find a field saying: return results from the site or domain Put in www.projectguitar.com and make sure it's set to only search there. Or projectguitar.ibforums.com Then add the words to search for above in the only these words etc. fields. This procedure can help to find stuff in the PG site as there is no search option, but it also works with the forum as well. Good for finding that tutorial when you don't know the combination of headings and subheading to look under. Be Cool, d ward

Here's a link to a veneer tutorial on the PG site in case you missed it. http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/veneer.htm

I agree that I'm not well versed in the history and development of the board. And that maybe I exaggerated the incident just a bit, just to generate some interest. But as you said, there may be visitors who are not use to using message boards in general and could benefit from some guidance. Plus, every board has its own little quirks. Thanks for your input, d ward

Robert, Yes, that's another thing I was thinking about, on a board like this there are some people who make it a home and others who just want to vacation here for a weekend. i.e. Some folks like the constant banter of guitar related conversations and others who just want to get the info they need and get out. I spent several years in the 70's trying to learn about violin making and in those days people with expertise were very unwilling to share. So I think it's great that you can come here and learn. I do however get a kick out the the social dynamic of a virtual community. Be Cool, d ward

Folks, As I get more familiar with the PG site and board I've been thinking that it might be a good thing to find a more proactive way to introduce new members. i.e. To help them find ways to: 1] Know what kind of info is already available on the board / PG Site. 2] Be able to locate the info quickly and easily. 3] Know how and where to ask specific questions they couldn't find answered in steps 1 and 2. i.e. To begin to interface with the established members in a way that works for both parties. I'll try to put something together. Here’s a start: Welcome to Project Guitar, a web presence dedicated to everything about guitars. To help you find the best way to use Project Guitar, read through the following. Follow the links as they apply to you. First, let’s determine how much you know about using an internet based community: 1] I know almost nothing. (I barely got here) {Link to tutorial on net / message board basics} 2] I’m proficient at using the net, but new to message boards. {Link to board tutorial} 3] I’m familiar with the net and message boards. (Then just read on.) One of the best things about Project Guitar is that it contains a huge amount of information. One of the worst things about Project Guitar is that it contains a huge amount of information. To help keep Project Guitar a user friendly resource free of as many repeated and unneeded posts as possible: Please try to follow these guidelines for using the message board. When seeking advice on a general question, remember that it has probably been either covered in the tutorial section or in other posts. Before asking the question: 1] Visit these areas of the ProjectGuitar website. Take some time to look around, chances are what you need is there somewhere. http://www.projectguitar.com/menu/tutorial.htm (How to's on many specific guitar building topics.) http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/build.htm (How I built my guitar(s) sites.) http://www.projectguitar.com/menu/reference.htm (General and specific info.) http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/supply.htm (Where to get wood, parts, you name it.) 2] Do a keyword search with the search tool. At the top of the main forum page you will find a field to enter the words to search for in the entire forum. Don't just give up on the first try, experiment a little with different combinations of words. At the bottom of each forum section is another search field that will search in that forum. At the bottom of each topic you can search that topic. Or follow this link to see other ways to search the site. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=22211 3] Then if you don’t find what you are looking for, post your question. But, first follow the link below and read the rules for posting. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=11235 Be specific with your question. i.e. Let us know you have done step 1 & 2. Get back to me with other guidelines you think should be here. Be Cool, d ward

I'm a school teacher and have taught people from grade school to adults. I've found that people of any age can learn new skills, their desire being the more important factor. I myself went back to college in my late 30's to become a teacher. Just keep working at it and you will get there. Good luck, d ward

I agree with the above as far as testing first goes. I make pictures frames and finish them with Formby's Tung Oil finish and have had problems with it not setting up on Cocobolo. Good Luck, d ward

Humbucker, I followed this tutorial on my first guitar project. http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/3d.htm It uses a two coat staining method where you apply a dark color, sand then add color over it. Imortant: I first used some of the cutoff material to test different strength and methods of applying the stain. Here's what mine looks like. http://209.56.91.10/TeacherPages/Ward/Guit.../GuitarPics.htm It works great with the quilted grain, my theory is that the twisting in the grain of the quilt causes the first color stain to soak in more in some areas so when you sand and leave only a slight bit of stain left it accentuates the patterns. Not sure how it would work on less figured wood. As I said before experiment first. Good Luck, d ward

What I do is use the same clear varnish that will go in the tinted layers. I've been using Stew-Mac's water based finish and they recommended a procedure where you first blow on thinned finish to build up a base coat then continue with the rest of the coats full strength. It seems to work ok, but I've been noticing some very faint texturing in the finish as it ages. Most likely due to the fact that by the time I get a project to the point of finish, I don't exactly follow the guidelines for time between coats, so I don't let each coat cure like it should. i.e. I don't follow Fundamental Rule #1: Be Patient. Probably as important as the other Fundamental Rule #1: Experiment first till you get it right. Just for the fun of it, I did a search here for "transparent paint" and did manage to find some info and mention of tutorials on the subject. You should give that a try, you'll probably find some helpful stuff. Also, try looking through the tutorial section via. the HomePage, there are probably article there too. i.e. I am offering my 2 cents worth, but there are real experts here that could improve on it. Here is another site you could try as well, it's dedicated to finishing. http://reranch.august.net/ Be Cool, d ward

I'm also new to the board and not a great expert, but I have put transparent varnish on a few guitars. My feeling has been to first do something to bring out the grain of the wood, tung oil, shellac etc. then get a good sealed and smooth base coat built up. Then start adding the colored layers, first with only a small amount of tint then making each new coat a little darker as they build up. I guess the best advice would be to first practice with test pieces until you get the result you want. As far as products, I use Stewart McDonald Color-Tone stain which you can add to the varnish. They are StewMac.com, I've called them on several occasions and gotten good advice, just ask for a tech person when you call. Plus, they are trying to sell you stuff so the politics are easier to deal with. Good luck, d ward

Mattia, Thanks for getting back to me, you must have been posting as I was replying to Bassman. Glad you agree with me on the squeezeout issue, makes me fell better about it. I've been using polyurethanes for neck glueing so the finger spreader approach is not so pleasant as with the alaphatic resin glues. Then again, I wear rubber gloves when working with the poly glues so that would work too. By the way, I'm a high school teacher and I have one student who is always talking about moving to Amsterdam. I've got to remember to tell her that when she gets there not to stand in the window. Thanks for your input. Be Cool, d ward

Bassman, Thanks for getting back to me. I do use a piece of 3/4 plywood as a shim between the 2x4's and the neck block that I didn't bother to show in the picture. I was thinking the same thing and have checked the flex in the blocks with a straight edge before and after adding pressure. With only a 6 in. spread between the bolts they hardly flex at all and the shim should even out the pressure. I appreciate your input. Be Cool, d ward

I agree with the guys above. I bought a flat bladed spokeshave, but quickly put it down in favor of rasps and files. You just need to be careful not to tear up edges with too aggressive rasping. The univeral woodworking truth applies: GO SLOW!!! Good Luck, d ward

Looks really good. I like the lines and the little twist on the headstock. Probably needs a warning label somewhere, you could take out an eye with that thing. (Or a kidney) Plus, it's not a SomethingCaster, so you da man in my book. Thanks for sharing, d ward

Folks, I'd like some other opinions on glueing. I've always been a believer in using good even pressure on the entire surface being glued, as opposed to using clamps that are spaced out. For example: I made the jig shown in the links for making laminated neck blanks. It uses a 6 in. wide steel u-channel as one side and R. Goldberg 2x4 and bolt clamps on the other. With it I can set clamps with no space between along the entire length of the blank. I guess I just don't feel comfortable when some of the surface has no direct pressure beyond the tensile strength of the wood. It seems that glue from a clamped area will push into the adjoining unclamped areas and not squeeze out as good as it should. Thus, leaving stronger and weaker areas as well as thicker and thinner gluelines. What do you think, is this overkill. Squeeze out is my other question: I use sponge blocks to apply glue. i.e. I apply the glue to the surface then use the sponge block to dob it so I get a nice even layer of glue. I do this with both surfaces to be glued. With this method I get minimal squeeze out, as opposed to the glue running everywhere thing I have seen in pictorial photos. Again, does this seem like a valid approach. Be Cool, d ward http://209.56.91.10/TeacherPages/Ward/GuitarPicsPost/s.jpg http://209.56.91.10/TeacherPages/Ward/GuitarPicsPost/t.jpg

Folks, I have a Gibson SG Junior that I am thinking about selling. I have looked up the serial number on several websites that indicate it to be a 1965 vintage. I bought it around 1977 and have owned it ever since. The catch is that I stripped off the finish about 20 years ago and finished it natural. I know, DUH!!!, who knew vintage guitar would have an exponential resale value. I did leave the original red finish on the back of the headstock and the front with the original logo. The rest of the guitar is all original. There isn't too much fret wear, the neck is straight and it plays well. Can you guys shoot me ideas on price ranges I could ask for it? I'll try to get some pics and link them from this thread. Be Cool, d ward