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gpcustomguitars

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Everything posted by gpcustomguitars

  1. Routed the 3mm ledge as far as the dremel would go, and finished with chiesels, using the edge as a guide. It was much quicker that I thought it would be. The tailpiece is a little overbent, but otherwise it fits nicely. Still trying to decide on a headstock, jumping between simple and complicated... IMG_20170215_230956 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170215_231049 by Goran P, on Flickr
  2. Some more time to spend in the shop, so I started the tailpiece. Cut with the hacksaw, additional shaping with files, drilled with my son's help (one hole is a bit off ) and bent with a mallet in small steps. I will whack it a few more times before actual assembly, but this is reasonably close. Now I can route the inset area for it. Did I manage to bend it backwards? Absolutely...I'll have to recess the holes from the other side too. I could say that someone was talking to me while I was working, but I won't, since she might read this at some point... IMG_20170215_115434 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170215_123836 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170215_141514 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170215_142830 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170215_210547 by Goran P, on Flickr
  3. Thanks! I built one recently and I like the effect a lot, I'm not really a pedals type, but this gives the guitar a certain...reactivity? notes jump up under the fingers, clean goes to nice, tubelike crunch, cuts trough, really nice. It would have a true bypass, via small dpdt toggle, so no prob there, I just have to confirm that I do have the space to place it in that cavity. I'm struggling with the headstock shape, this is v1: headstock by Goran P, on Flickr I should add now that it will probably have a zero fret and some sort of a comb to hold the strings in place, and it might be a 24'. With the bridge it's simpler, this is the template, 3mm brass, bought the materials this morning: tailpiece by Goran P, on Flickr For the vibrato handle, I bought 2 versions, fi 6mm and OK7mm, that might look a bit more interesting...
  4. ...and with this, it's done for the day...it's sunk for about 2mm, face side is untouched. I drilled the hole for the jack, a small part of the cavity is to be additionally routed, but tomorrow...Headstock will have to complement the shape/theme. IMG_20170212_174530 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170212_175141 by Goran P, on Flickr
  5. Thanks!!! Scott, that's the exact idea, thanks! - it's all about the blues on this guitar! Good day today so far: 3mm black plastic: IMG_20170211_204836 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170211_210336 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170211_211951 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170212_121128 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170212_121943 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170212_123322 by Goran P, on Flickr test fit and some routing: IMG_20170212_131318 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170212_131330 by Goran P, on Flickr sanding the router marks on the back with orbital, the back is now perfectly flat and I can index routes from the top from it: IMG_20170212_134807 by Goran P, on Flickr I used the sawed off pieces of humbucker plugs I used on the 335 to pose in the possible positions for the P90's (definitely P90's!, 3 of them ) IMG_20170212_140207 by Goran P, on Flickr Forgot that this is not the realm of 90 degree angles IMG_20170212_140307 by Goran P, on Flickr so a quick trip to the disk sander, and some daylight: IMG_20170212_142043 by Goran P, on Flickr I'm leaning toward 3 P90's, neck and bridge with their own toggle and vol control, and middle with a dpdt on/off, volume control, and a master tone. I might put in a treble booster, with it's own dpdt, and a stereo jack for connecting the battery when plugged in... Any thoughts on the middle pup? Is it too much? I want to avoid a blade switch but I might be wrong,it would perhaps fit nicely on a piece of plastic in the usual LP toggle position?
  6. Circle cutter did fine, not all the way trough, but it cleaned up nicely with the router. I've thicknessed the back to 45mm, the rest will be planed/scraped by hand. I might add some more reliefs later...Refined the body shape some more, still a few areas to touch up, but so far so good. Hopefully, I'll get some more time to work on it later today! IMG_20170211_110942 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170211_112329 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170211_121109 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20170211_123349 by Goran P, on Flickr
  7. It definitely IS a guitar! Tried to make some paper templates, can't do it all freehand... b4 by Goran P, on Flickr P90s or toasters...? 2 or 3...? Black! Treble booster or not? Weird 2-piece brass vibrato adding some weight on the strings with circular bridge, also brass, at least 3mm thick (I do have to bend it nicely though...).Pup rings inlayed, brass as contrast to black pups. I might have some used brass screws somewhere...I've got some battery holders in the mail, could place it on the back. For the neck I have some weird ideas I've wanted to try for a while now
  8. Thanks, I hope so! My phone camera started restarting the phone every time I tried to take a pic, it does that when it's cold, so I took only a few pics: cut the shape approximately, no big math so far, just rough proportions, freehand. Shaped the relief with a sureform and a file. b01 by Goran P, on Flickr perhaps not that visible, but you can see the placement of the pickup routes to be. I've shifted the first version of centerline a little b02 by Goran P, on Flickr and now it's visible that the piece is not that bad at all: b03 by Goran P, on Flickr It's cca 50mm, and when flattened from the back, I plan to leave 40mm. I got a new circle cutter, so I get to try it out on this piece! I'll flood the rotten area with CA first, predrill the pilot hole and probably go halfway or so from the back. Not in the pics, the relief is deeper and refined, I've shaped the armrest too, and sanded both with the orbital. BTW, I think it wants to be a guitar
  9. If it decides to be a bass, I do have something in mind, but if its a guitar, it can get a bit more interesting. I think I will thickness it from the back this time, to 40mm probably. What I really need is a small vertical mill for metal for some custom bridge work, but that's out of question for now...I can outsource it, but that's just not it... The black pickguard will be bent 90 degrees to form a surface for the jack(s), and the areas marked with lines carved/shallow. Updates soon!
  10. It's slowly getting warmer outside, but I'm still in the repairs and electronics mostly, as that room is in the house, where it's warm So, I made this for playing in front of the TV: IMG_20170206_151210 by Goran P, on Flickr I have a single LM386 amp assembled, with max gain, but I'll try a bridged version (still soldering) with some gain/tone options before calling it done. Since the knob is a gas stove one, the pot might get wired upside down In the meanwhile, I'm about to start to slowly turn this bird001 by Goran P, on Flickr into something like this: bird by Goran P, on Flickr It can change quite a bit along the way of course, I still can't tell if it wants to be a guitar or a bass...it's the rest of the BillyBo plank. Hope you like it!
  11. The humbuckers are in the customs, they should be in the mail during this week...or so I hope... In the meanwhile, a few more projects on the table: IMG_20161127_133731 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161127_180331 by Goran P, on Flickr PRS is one piece sapele body, one piece mahogany neck, fretboard probably ebony, pups probably P90, wraparound bridge. probably natural colored. Bass is fretless, again walnut root, one piece, neck is mystery hardwood as on the 335, fretboard walnut, 12in radius. I'll make the bridge, 10mm thick alu base plate, with brass saddle... Oil + wax. ...and another LP - again cherry/maple combo, series of holes for weight relief, slightly thinner base. The neck is cherry, 3 lams, maple headstock veneer. Fretboard is rosewood, pups might be mini hums in p90 covers, and it will have 2 vol + master tone + toggle for 2n5457-based treble booster I've put together to audition last night. I hope to make a nicer one (smaller) with better layout and to fit it all in the standard cavity. I think it would be handy. The back will be natural, and the top could be: black, sanded back blue (like jeans), some sort of plain top yellow or sanded back red, with yellow over it.
  12. Thanks Scott!!! It IS easy, plastic is very forgiving, CA welds in any small voids if the parts are properly pressed together. What you do with chisels, on the other hand, is hard - I can only hope to have your ability with carving, and especially the patience with sanding the details to perfection. I'm always guilty in the sanding department
  13. After a few days, managed to polish it! Installed the tuners, nut, TOM (no inserts, direct to wood) and the tailpiece, put the strings on. and the action and intonation were right on the mark Nice, it happens sometimes! Before commiting to the piezo harness, did a little testing, just taped the whole thing on the guitar and plugged it in. Not as defined and clear as the pickups would be, but it does sound acoustic. works well with strumming, but with the drive on, has a nice boxy sound to it, something like a wah in a certain position. I'll test it in combination with pickups when they arrive to decide will it stay or go. Feedbacks nicely too Didn't have a TR cover ready, and didn't feel like waiting on one, so I made one...the shape is not an exact copy, but I like it. Tried to take a pic without my table light, and it seems less pink, perhaps it's the light bulb? IMG_20161113_192410 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_192538 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_192805 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_193651 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_194559 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_200545 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_202006 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_204236 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_211103 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_211402 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_211807 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_211837 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161113_211847 by Goran P, on Flickr
  14. Nothing much to show - clear coating for a few days now, but the parts are starting to come in. Managed to test the piezo discs I've mentioned earlier, I actually expected them not to work :), BUT - little guys are LOUD! My table became a microphone They would cause some feedback for sure, but that could be fun What I had in mind is to put them in the pup cavities and mount the pots on the pickguard, with a toggle to select piezo only, classical harness only and both at the same time. I'll test it before drilling holes in the pickguard. Feedback at the flick of a switch IMG_20161103_182438 by Goran P, on Flickr
  15. Changed the spec for the bolt from 3mm to 4, easyer to find. These are the actual offcuts of the pickguard, nothing wasted Needs some polishing, but its basically done. I sunk one nut in the middle layer, because I didn't like the idea of tapping the plastic - this should be more durable. IMG_20161029_131148 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161029_140502 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161029_140511 by Goran P, on Flickr
  16. No , I'm just gathering the parts for a 335-style bracket, I might use that nut. I'll try the nitro stain with some thinner for the binding, thanks! Here's what I've been up to for the last hour: IMG_20161028_223604 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161028_224230 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161028_224236 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161028_230318 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161028_230520 by Goran P, on Flickr Carl, the color IS red (wine red, actually, RAL 3003) it's just that my phone doesn't think so...but I might have a bit of weirdness for this guitar yet. I got one of those 3-piezo disc + some pots soldered harnesses that I would like to audition. It's supposed to be for cigar-box guitars, but I was wondering what would it sound like if I attached two of them in pup cavities and one on the center block, if I can reach it trough the F-hole. The pots would go on the pickguard, no additional holes needed. I'll try the disks out tomorrow, perhaps it just makes no sense, but I'll have to hear it first.
  17. Started the pickguard bracket - I can get the chinese one for about 3eur, but it doesn't have the proper plastic block, pickguard would need drilling. Made the drawings with few measurements I could find on the net, and got a reasonable estimate of the rest from a few scaled pics. I'll polish the aluminium and make the block from pickguard offcuts. One M3 x 55mm long still needed. The tuners have arrived and I have successfully swapped the keys for "jade" ones I got a while back for something like this. Seems to be OK. I could make a pair of earrings for my wife with the nickel ones... That would go well with her Firebird IMG_20161028_133324 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161028_192959 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161028_194905 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161028_200317 by Goran P, on Flickr
  18. Thanks Andy! If this goes well, I'll try laminating sides from veneer for some other projects, I have a Languedoc started in the big pile of unfinished projects I found a place about 10mins from me that sells veneer for about 2.00 eur per sheet, 70 x 250cm. Managed to clean the inlay this morning before work, a minute or so of scraping: IMG_20161028_072954 by Goran P, on Flickr I went with the longer version of the pickguard, we'll see if it really looks better. BTW, has anyone yellowed the binding successfully prior to clear coats and with what?
  19. I don't think that there's any need for any inlay - the paint has covered the seams pretty well! I've tried to capture the arching, not sure if it's visible well enough... I still haven't scraped the inlay on the headstock, but it's there IMG_20161027_202318 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161027_202410 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161027_202423 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161027_202441 by Goran P, on Flickr
  20. Sprayed the sides, and started the pickguard. 3mm black acrylic plate + some leftover body binding, glued with CA. Cut with the jeweler's saw, filed smooth, scraped from both sides and then beveled with the (not so) blunt end of the replacement blade. Always the exact same angle , quick and quiet. I didn't cut the places for the pup rings, I prefer to do that in actual assembly. IMG_20161025_194049 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161025_194647 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161025_203141 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161025_205351 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161025_210142 by Goran P, on Flickr
  21. Some unexpected time to work on this today, so, I managed to finalize the neck profile and sand everything with orbital sander, and sprayed the color coat on the back and the neck. Scraped binding just now, will go over it more carefully tomorrow. As I still haven't replaced the compressor, it has to be rattlecan finish. Wine red, RAL 3003 Headstock will be black, and I have left 2mm bare wood on the headstock edge. IMG_20161024_133744 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161024_210330 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161024_210400 by Goran P, on Flickr
  22. Not much time lately...managed to inlay the "crown", and leveled it. Little gaps are still not filled. Sanded the neck, but I will just wait a little more, I usually find a spot or two after a while :) Also, inlayed a piece of binding over the seam of the sides. I have started straightening the wire I got for the possible inlay, we'll see if I get to use it. IMG_20161023_172357 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161023_172420 by Goran P, on Flickr
  23. I don't see it...? If you mean the second pic, it's the shadow, the inlay is thick.
  24. Getting old, I guess...Let's see what I come up with for this top In the meanwhile, the kids are asleep and I quickly prepared this for the next session: IMG_20161016_215439 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161016_215620 by Goran P, on Flickr It's a scrap of milky white plexy, 4mm, I'll sand off the extra thickness after inlaying. Extra thickness helps preventing breaks when sawing, and for the straight lines, I do a little trick - clamp it to the line in a table vise, and it serves as a guide for the saw, as it just slides along it. Stability is also improved greatly, this little piece, being all straight lines, took 3-4 mins.
  25. Had some time today and managed to fine tune the tenon and the neck angle (or I hope so ). Neck was shaped, with some wood to spare, as I have made a habit of shaping the necks with a scraper, already glued to the guitar. I've glued on a little piece of the same wood to build up the heel. Still thinking of more ways to hide the routing disaster.... IMG_20161016_161137 by Goran P, on Flickr IMG_20161016_164544 by Goran P, on Flickr
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