johnbsharp

I would just finish it up then let it sit a week if you want.Not enough info to offer more advise .

www.allparts.com You might want to wonder over to www.carvin.com parts and kits.

There are spray cans sold at hardware strores ,I think called insta crome for less than $5 a can. 1-2 cans should do body and then clearcoated.I have used it and is close to the real thing.All the prep work must be perfect.!! I will check on name and post later.

John try www.carvin.com . under bass parts or kit parts.

I'm a furniture refinisher and repair-32 years-Done a dozen or so guitar finishs-Built a bass just recetly. Done alot of mods.Just a Wannabe.Play guitar & bass. Just love em!

Carvin J99 single coil. $49 can't be beat.

I would go with mex Fender or a Carvin kit.Or any thing that works for you.

Sanding sealer is used to seal in previous finishs also to aid in filling grain and mainly to build up surface.It is heavy bodied and is formulated to sand nicely.Only use whats required for base coat.

I have used heat and fans as a way to evaporate solvant in lacquer to speed up drying time.Don't get to close with lamp.Also if weather permits I don't add retarder.

A low lusteror flat finish is going to be the closest to oil look and feel.

Teak oil would be simaler to tung,but tung does form a layer of protection.With teak its basicly a oil only.Both are inferior imo. to lacquer or poly.

I hang then use pickup holes or back cavity to manuver.Hang from a neck or screw hole so not to touch anywhere.

Done all types but prefer lacquer.I know a certain neck company that requires a finish to obtain warranty.Meaning there is a issue of how much actual sealing oils do to help keep wood stablized especially under pressure.With lacquer you can rubout #0000 stealwool to look and feel flat or keep glossy ,your choice.

I run into problems with cheap masking tape. Try 3M. and use your fingernail to press on at edges. John

! sorry below

Maybe a contaminate in grain keeps repelling areas -causeing orange peel.I would sand down with a couser #220 white carbide to save time,wash off, tack And start over.

It does look a tad darker in picture.I found in different lighting it looks:lighter in natural ,darker in artificial. Lacquer does have a very slight amber tint.Unless it's water white. Good eye !

It does look a tad darker in picture.I found in different lighting it looks:lighter in natural ,darker in artificial. Lacquer does have a very slight amber tint.Unless it's water white.Good eye !

This is a reply I recieved from soapbarstrat I found very usefull. Thanks. J.W. I use a router to make full-sized tapered shims, but it's a lot of set-up work. You can use just about any hardwood, but maple is real dense, so the thinner end of the shim is a little tougher than something like mahogany. I never made one out of mahogany, but I would assume it would be very very brittle when sized that thin.

There's also the issue of a partial shim causing the neck to "kink". Some say it happens. Worked on some guys cheap chinese squire bass a few years ago that got on my nerves because he wanted his action lowered. The only way to do that was to shim the neck. He didn't want to pay what I charge for a full-sized shim, so I said I wood stick a partial shim in there. Then he says he doesn't want that because he had it like that but removed the shim because he heard the neck can 'kink' from it. But he still wanted the action lower (bridge adjustment wouldn't do it alone). I got tired of his crap and put a partial shim and charged him a very low price since I couldn't perform the impossible for him. I guess he thought I would eventually "give in " and do the full-sized shim dirt cheap, but forget that. I wanted that bass off my bench to make room for the next job.

The best asset of tung oil is anyone can do it.It's pretty much fool proof. The negs are its softer more volnerable to damage.I have found it can soften from oils and acidity from skin.But it is easy to repair/rejuvenate.I personally don't like vs. say lacquer.

Brian,Thanks for the compliment.What I didn't say is I'm a finisher 32 years.I did this with cans because I had my gun tied up with color(paying customer).By the way I took your advice on the tapered neck shim.I tried both flat and tapered ,now I know why you advised this.You expertise is greatly appreciated.Thanks,John

[url=]Picture of alder bodt natural

Clear gloss lacqur sparay can. 6-8 light coats. sand very light with 220 between coats. Rub out lightly #0000 stealwool and lemon oil.Nice!I just did a bass and neck, took 2 cans. finished in 1 day.

I have aquestion about wedge or tapered shim?Won't this change the parralel distance between strings and neck at the thick end of shim vs. a flat shim that won't change the pitch? Thanks alot on your help!

I have aquestion about wedge or tapered shim?Won't this change the parralel distance between strings and neck at the thick end of shim vs. a flat shim that won't change the pitch? Thanks alot on your help!