johnbsharp

I would just finish it up then let it sit a week if you want.Not enough info to offer more advise .

www.allparts.com You might want to wonder over to www.carvin.com parts and kits.

There are spray cans sold at hardware strores ,I think called insta crome for less than $5 a can. 1-2 cans should do body and then clearcoated.I have used it and is close to the real thing.All the prep work must be perfect.!! I will check on name and post later.

John try www.carvin.com . under bass parts or kit parts.

I'm a furniture refinisher and repair-32 years-Done a dozen or so guitar finishs-Built a bass just recetly. Done alot of mods.Just a Wannabe.Play guitar & bass. Just love em!

Carvin J99 single coil. $49 can't be beat.

I would go with mex Fender or a Carvin kit.Or any thing that works for you.

Sanding sealer is used to seal in previous finishs also to aid in filling grain and mainly to build up surface.It is heavy bodied and is formulated to sand nicely.Only use whats required for base coat.

I have used heat and fans as a way to evaporate solvant in lacquer to speed up drying time.Don't get to close with lamp.Also if weather permits I don't add retarder.

A low lusteror flat finish is going to be the closest to oil look and feel.

Teak oil would be simaler to tung,but tung does form a layer of protection.With teak its basicly a oil only.Both are inferior imo. to lacquer or poly.

I hang then use pickup holes or back cavity to manuver.Hang from a neck or screw hole so not to touch anywhere.

Done all types but prefer lacquer.I know a certain neck company that requires a finish to obtain warranty.Meaning there is a issue of how much actual sealing oils do to help keep wood stablized especially under pressure.With lacquer you can rubout #0000 stealwool to look and feel flat or keep glossy ,your choice.

I run into problems with cheap masking tape. Try 3M. and use your fingernail to press on at edges. John

! sorry below