jamforthelamb

Hey Pete,

Sorry for the tardiness of my reply, I've been training this week.

I'm not sure when I'll have the parts to do the coil shunt, but when I do I'll make sure to shunt the coil closest to the driver to try and avoid any issues.

When you spoke of moving that magnet so that the polarity would be point up. Would all I have to do is pull it off the bottom (I think it's just lightly glued on), and point one of the thinner ends upward toward the strings? I believe it's mounted flat right now.

-jftl

I'm not sure which way the magnet faces on this one because like I said, it's actually a single coil. Considering the adjustable poles I'm assuming it's flat like you said.

Yeah, I wired this (as far as I know) how you've been saying to for the last 286 pages (wow!). The pickup switch controls the battery on/off rather then haveing a stereo jack that turns in on when the guitar is plugged in, and there is only the bridge pickup. Another thing I've found that you've said before is that it sucks juice, my battery is already going flat! Have you tried one of these with a coil shunted pickup? I tried it, and it made the sustainer squeal big time.

I would love to have one of your circuits. Hopeful by the time you "pull the finger out" I will be in better financial shape. I was laid off, and un-employed for 2 months, I'm just getting back on my feet again this coming week.

-jftl

Hey Pete,

Well I ended up wiring another driver. I was dis-assembling this guitar's old neck pickup (it has a silver cover I was going to use), and found that it was actually a single coil, so I decided to wire it up as a driver to make it even more stealthy. This put the driver a little bit closer to the neck as well. I don't want to do the surface mount thing if I can get away with it just cause I'm liking the stealth thing (if you haven't noticed =) ).

There is some distortion in the signal with everything cranked. I can back the controls off and get rid of some, but then of course it doesn't work as well. As I think you've stated before there is a lot of factors to it, and it takes some twiddling to get it to work just so. I probably won't be able to use it completely clean all the time, but it sounds heavenly with a bit of distortion and some delay or reverb.

I'll admit I didn't tinker with getting the harmonic part working a lot. I was just happy to have a functional unit. I played with bias on the jfet some, and got rid of the noise, and damping, but still not harmonics.

I followed MRJ's schemo to the letter. The input is wired directly to the pickups hot lead, and the circuit shares ground with the guitar.

Here's how it looks now

I plan on eventually getting another bridge pickup that has a metal cover also.

-jftl

Hey All,

It's been almost a year, but I finally got my sustainer guitar done. I stopped working on it for a while because I was so frustrated, and just picked it up again recently. I used MRJ's layout for the circuit, and had to wind the coil two more times before I got one that works. The only thing that isn't working is the harmonic mode. It actually just mutes the strings (and makes a lot of noise) regardless of how I have it set. I hardwired it in regular sustain mode for now, but I hope to fix it so I can put in the switch. Any ideas on what might help? I ended up going with the 220uf cap instead if the 100uf because it worked better. Thanks so much to PSW, and everyone else that contributed. I couldn't have built it without you.

The sustainer is completely stealth (except for the driver looking a little strange, I plan on dealing with that eventually). Both of the pots are mounted where the neck pickups volume and tone would be, and the pickup selector switch controls on/off for the sustainer. I also plan on eventually coil tapping the bridge pickup, and adding a harmonic switch once I get that worked out (both will be push/pulls).

ps. there will be a white knob on the pot without a knob. I just need to get another knurled shaft pot.

-jftl

Hey all,

I'm bringing back my old post to ask a related question.

I've noticed that the nicer Dou/Double Jets have Walnut Stain on the back, and solid black on the top. Could I get away with doing this on my mangled electromatic with some wood filler, or is it just not feasable ?

Thanks!

jftl

I have semi disguised chips like that by mixing some black stain with laquer then using a toothpick to drip it it in place. If I did that I would gently scrape back the flaking finish then coat it a couple of times.

There is one small chip on the front, and one on the head stock that I plan on doing that with. I just want to be able to play this at my church without having to wear a black shirt every time I use it.

Thanks!

-jftl

erm ouch!

If you're not wanting to fill it properly yet I'd be tempted to suggest just tapeing over it so it doesn't snag. Maybe putting something over the bare wood so the tape doesn't rip it out when you take it off. hardly a pretty or proper solution but at least its the back and it'll at least stop the wood from getting even more damaged.

Yeah, I gotta admit it's not the best thing to be doing, but I'm just anxious to get some playing time with it. That's actually a pretty good suggestion, I could even use electrical tape so it matches the body color

-jftl

Yikes. You could try filling with those shellac sticks that you melt with a lighter and drip into the holes. Might work for some of the smaller ones. To temporarily stop the finish from sloughing off on your shirt, I would use shellac again. Not the sticks, from the can. CA glue might work, but it can be hard to do stuff later on. Shellac sticks to anything and anything sticks to shellac. Fill up the holes and french polish if you're industriously minded, probably come out looking almost new. My suggestions are probably conservative. Someone else might know some awesome tricks with CA glue and boat resin....

Hi Dugg,

Yeah, I'd like the fix to be semi-reversable just in case I do decide to refinish the guitar later. It plays good, and sounds good, it just doesn't look so good from the back.

-jftl

Hey Everyone,

Recently bought a new project. It's Gretsch solid body, one of the import models. I found it on a local craigslist for 50.00.

The reason it was so cheap is because it has some pretty bad body damage on the rear of the guitar, the picture below being the worst. I'm not sure if I'm ready to fill/refinish this (maybe later on), so what can I do to keep the finish from constantly flaking off on my shirt ? I've heard of using super glue as a replacement clear coat, but I didn't know if that would work conisdering the size of the dents, and the fact that there is finish completely gone. There is also a small chip on the front side of the guitar. Could I fix that using nail polish and super glue ? I just want to disguise the damage as best as I can.

More pictures here.

Thanks!

-jftl

I've got a deaf eddie chormacaster switch in my mexy strat. It's got about every kind of series/parallel/phase combo you can think of, still works with a regular 5 way, and replace one of your tone pots (no extra holes needed).

http://www.deaf-eddie.net/chromie.html

if you have the trem whats wrong with measureing the studs themselves?? I have seen them just below, just above and nicely flush... flush always looks neater to me

Ok, I wasn't sure. I think I would prefer flush as well, but that other site got me questioning.

Thanks!

-jftl

Hey all,

I have a Wilkinson Trem that I will be putting in my Yamaha that currently has a 6 hole trem. I know everything on installing the trem, except for how deep to drill the holes for the studs. I read on one site that they are supposed to sit just below the body's surface. I want to make sure that I get this in there right because this is my primary player.

Thanks!

-jftl

Someone with a little knowledge and a dangerous mind for instance could hook such a sensor as you have there (which is really an optically variable control pot) to control the speed of a tremolo or the feedback of a delay. Even more simple, the volume knob for volume swells at the wave of a hand....hmmm...got me thinking!!! Very nice...

Hi Pete,

Folks in the "Circuit Bending" community have been doing stuff like that for a little while.

I have been modifying Fab Echos with a similar control (among other things)

linky

</offtopic>

-jftl

Hey All,

I've been working on tricking out my MIM strat just for kicks. I installed a Deaf Eddie chromacaster switch in the middle tone position, so now my back tone is a master tone. I would like to install a TBX style tone control in that position that will roll off the treble or bass. I was wondering if someone could help me figured out the values of the caps/resistors if I were to use a cheaper/easier to get 250k blend pot. Here is the schematic for what I'm going for.

TBX bass cut

Also, I know that the original TBX takes the load off of the pickups when rolled one way, so I plan on installing a push/pull volume pot wired up as a "solo switch".

Thanks!

-jftl

Hey All,

I got it working! I tried the "loop technique" and it seemed to help a little, but ultimately what got rid of the squeal was mounting (hot gluing) the driver at an angle facing away from the pickup. I still have the usually grunge/fizz, but it's nice to have it doing something anyway. The guitar is pretty ugly right now, but I plan on cleaning everything up hopefully in the next few weeks.

Thanks for everyone's (especially PSW and Col's) contribution to this massive thread, I could have never built one of these without it.

God bless,

-Kevin

Just a quick note to say that this evening I tested Utopian Isotopes 'loop' technique.

It does work exceptionally well as a way of removing/controlling squeal.

As is, the basic loop doesn't seem to have any impact on fizz/grunge.

cheers

Col

Hi Col, and everybody.

What is this technique? I tried looking for it and didn't find it. Recently got my sustainer guitar together, and I have a squeal. The sustainer worked fine outside of the guitar, so now I'm a little frustrated. Any help you guys could give would be great.

Thanks!

-Kevin

Nope, the Jeff Beck picture is pretty much it. You can route away as much (as little ) as you need to, so long as it fits under the pickguard.

And the sustainer would go in the neck position, so you can measure from your pickguard where that is, and route from there. If you already have a neck pickup, then you don't need to route any closer to the neck pocket.

This guitar has a bridge pickup and that's it, so I will be routing a new cavity and making a pickguard for it.

Hey All,

Semi-related question to this post. I'm going to be routing a "swimming pool" in a guitar to make room for a sustainer setup (all the circuitry+driver in the neck position). How much wood should I leave between the neck pocket and the pool ? From looking at the Jeff Beck guitar it's not a whole lot.

Thanks!

-Kevin

Hey All,

Thanks for the replies. I had considered working on the frets myself, but I don't have the tools to do it. I figured it would be less expensive to just buy the neck then to get all the files and such (possibly more if the frets need replaced). I'm not always the most handy guy in the world either (electronics is more my strong point). Guess I'll give it some more thought.

Thanks!

-Kevin

Hello all,

I have a guitar that I would like to get a replacement neck for. It's a cheap guitar (a dixon) that I'm using for a project, but it's useless right now because the frets are so bad. How do I measure to find out what size neck to buy for it ? I'm thinking of just buying one of the cheap take off necks that are on ebay a lot.

Thanks!

Kevin

Hey Everyone,

I built a sustainer setup using the massive thread over in the electronics forum, and I have a guitar that I want to install it in that has a few problems. I haven't been able to fully test the sustainer because I have to hold the driver over the strings while playing, so I want to get this in playable condition, and get the sustainer installed in it so I can see how well it actually works.

The neck on it is in real bad condition, and I'm thinking since it's a guitar of little consequence to me that it would be easiest to just get one of the cheap "take off" necks that I see on ebay a lot. How do I measure this neck to see what size I need to get to replace it? It's very strat looking, but I think that it might be a little shorter then a strat neck.

This guitar only has one humbucker in the bridge position making it perfect for the sustainer. I wound an old single coil to use as a driver, and plan on routing a hole in the neck position to mount it in. How far from the neck pocket should I route my hole ? I haven't decided yet if I'm only going to route a hole big enough for the driver, or if I'm going to route a large hole so that I can have room for the electronics and just make up a pickguard. The more I think about it option 2 is probably the way I'm going to have to go.

Thanks!

-Kevin

bump

Hey Everyone,

I built a sustainer setup using the massive thread over in the electronics forum, and I have a guitar that I want to install it in that has a few problems. I haven't been able to fully test the sustainer because I have to hold the driver over the strings while playing, so I want to get this in playable condition, and get the sustainer installed in it so I can see how well it actually works.

The neck on it is in real bad condition, and I'm thinking since it's a guitar of little consequence to me that it would be easiest to just get one of the cheap "take off" necks that I see on ebay a lot. How do I measure this neck to see what size I need to get to replace it? It's very strat looking, but I think that it might be a little shorter then a strat neck.

This guitar only has one humbucker in the bridge position making it perfect for the sustainer. I wound an old single coil to use as a driver, and plan on routing a hole in the neck position to mount it in. How far from the neck pocket should I route my hole ? I haven't decided yet if I'm only going to route a hole big enough for the driver, or if I'm going to route a large hole so that I can have room for the electronics and just make up a pickguard. The more I think about it option 2 is probably the way I'm going to have to go.

Thanks!

-Kevin

I have a 1960 Silvertone Jupiter with 2 of the surface mount ones, and I adore the tone! It is extremely "Gretsch like", but I've never been able to afford a Gretsch, so I can't say that absolutely. The guitar is a hollowbody with no f-holes so I'm sure that effects the sound as well. It also has a cool wiring scheme that allow the middle position of the pickup selector to blend between the 2 pickups with a knob.

-Kevin

Hi Kevin--

it does sound like your coil is working. If you put it too close to the pickup you're using to drive the smokey it will squeal. I've noticed you do need to get the coil quite close to the strings to acoustically notice that it's working. Also, on mine, if I roll off the tone at the guitar it reduces the efficacy of the sustainer. When you're testing, have the controls full open, only use the bridge pickup, and test near the neck PU, or around the 12th fret. Also, use a fresh battery in the smokey. If you reverse the leads to the coil, you alternate between harmonic and fundamental modes, and they behave differently. For me, harmonic mode is very dramatic on the low E and A strings, and less so on the higher strings. Fundamental mode is more even across the board. You may not get response from the hi -E.

Good luck~

ron

Hi Ron,

Thanks for the tips man. I actually have now built a Fetzer/Ruby. I'm in the dubbing stages now (had a bad pot). I played around a lot more with the Smokey+driver on the guitar the sustainer is going in. It's only wound with a G string right now, but I could get it to work with both "modes".

God bless,

Kevin

Thanks PSW on both accounts.

Yeah, I've played with a Bigsby before, and I'm aware of the short comings. I love rockabilly music so I like their subtleness, but I think I will take your suggestion and just hold off until I get my first one working. Another thought I had was using a slide on the sustainer guitar

Got my driver "wired" last night. Took me three or four tries (wire breaks, to many wraps, etc...). When measured it measures 12 ohms, but on my meter if you touch the two test leads together it measures 4 ohms, so I compensated. Hope that's correct. I wired it up to a little "smokey" amp I gutted (runs on a 386 chip). I tested it by plugging the circuit input into a guitar, and the driver wired to the output of the circuit. I held the driver near the strings, but they didn't "seem" to sustain much more then normal, however if I put the driver near the bridge pickup the driver would make a squeal. I'm hoping that means at the least that my driver works (but probably needs potted better), and I just need to build a better circuit. I used wood working glue as suggested for the driver, but I'm going to go back over it with some hot glue to seal it/pot it in real good. I didn't get to test it real good because when I finished it was after midnight. Any advise on what to do next ?

Thanks!

Kevin