nonamemx

I saw the piezo element from a buzzer bass pickup link, but I was wondering if there was one for the guitar?

Can i make a piezo pickup out of some piezos pretty easily? where would i mount them, Ect.?

Im going to give it another go in a few weeks, when school's out.

I have a REAL piezo this time, not just a mini magnet cone speaker.

The curcuit may not have been powerfull enought to drive the speaker (from a american ailines headphone, lol)

correct me if I'm wrong...

mf=millifarad

uf=microfarad

pf= picofarad

That's right..

1mf = 1x10^(-3)f = 0.001f

1uf = 1x10^(-6)f = 0.000001f

1pf = 1x10^(-12)f = 0.000000000001f

Incidentally, u should actually be a µ but that's a pain in the arse to type in every time..

whoh, how did you make the micro sign?

I really, really doubt it.

Could you describe how it works/ sounds?

What tools I need to turn a chunk of wood into a guitar body?

Say, I had a chunk of wood thats ready have the shape cut and route some bridge/pickup holes?

I need a router, i guess. What kind?

Do I need a saw of any sort? then what kind?

PLEASE help.

Thanks very much in advance.

It will look more professional with a transparent finish. It will look like an original production guitar, and you will have the best grade in the class.

Floyd roses can be difficult to set up right.

What guage strings are you using?

If the bridge is lifting up, you need to de-tune the strings untill they are almost limp, open the back compartment, find the 2 screws that hold the "claw" onto the body, and tighten those screws a little. It will move the claw closer to the body, pulling the springs tighter, and lowering the tremolo back down.

Tune the strings back up and check your progress. It may be a bit annoying. If you dont feel like messing with it, just have a pro have it professionally intonated.

And with a FL trem, its best to choose a string guage and stick with it, so you dont have to make any more adjustments when you change strings.

also, when you change strings, change them ONE at a time. Dont take them all off at the same time. Take the old E string off, put the new one on, tune up, take the old A string off. . . . .

I believe the humbucker's creator, Seth Lover, coined the term

the "hum-bucker" was actually first found on microphones. there was a switch that would produce a "negative" microphone field that would phase cancel out everything except what was coming from one side only. the issues they would have would be area noise, EMF noise, and radio interference. now, it's a standard in how microphones are shaped. Cardiod, omni-directional, uni-directional, etc, it's how they're aimed, the switch was just done away with.

Advanced Audio Production 2. thank you very much Greg Skolaski a.k.a. Gregory K (for those of you that listen(ed) to Nashville radio).

Well. Seth Lover said that his pickup was a hum-bucker, so I guess thats where HE got the term. . .

Is it just me, or do the pictures look like paintings?

I have been using stranded wires for some time now. Stripping them is very tough. You cut too deep, and then little tiny wires fall out and go all over. The wires are always breaking out of the soldering connection after they have been bent back and forth several times. .. .

but I just got a roll of Solid wire last week. Wow. Its so easy. You just cut a little, doesn't even have to be all the way through, and yank: you have a perfectly stripped wire. . . .ahhhh the feeling! Im sure it carries a better signal too.

Is there any reason not to use solid wire?

Bridge: Evolution

Neck: PAF

that would be a really nice setup.

I believe the humbucker's creator, Seth Lover, coined the term

Wow.

Thats it.

NEW PROJECT FOR THE SUMMER!!!

I too thought of making my own amp-in-guitar deal.

But when rockman has the mini amps that sound pretty good for sale for $20, it doesn't seem worth the effort.

Lets see. . . . in a freaking shoebox. . . .

1. 30w soldering iron

2. small roll of rosin core solder

3. large roll of solid core hookup wire

4. masking tape (because I ran out of electrical tape. It blocks signals just fine)

5. scissors

6. needle-nose pliers

7. heat sink clip.

8. Misc. bag of diodes

9. Misc. bag of resistors

10. Misc bag of capacitors

11. several gummed up 500k pots.

12. Small soldering iron stand

13. towel

14. Screwdrivers (regular and tiny ones)

15. half assembled Ansul sustainer PC board.

16. Cheap multimeter, that i cant figure out how to make work.

I think it deserves better than a Powersound.

Its freaking sweet man.

If intereference can pass though your guitar's body, then why would a little bit of vinyl tape bother it?

Ansul: Do you have a soundclip of the sustainer? could you post it?

no...

Is it in the Neck or Bridge?

How close to the strings do you have it?

Ah. Nice website.

Yeah and Im kind pissed at my guitar... I cant for the life of me get the intonation right, and the stupid bridge keeps snapping strings when I tighten the little screw that holds the end of the string in... I cant win. I cant win.... and its not like I havent done this before. I dunno whats up, this damn air norton must be bad luck, plus I cant really even tell much of a difference in tone w/it

Perhaps you have a rough spot on your bridge saddles. Maybe you should look into buying some graphtech saddles.

Yeah the norton is pretty fat, and phat... har har.. Im thinking of getting either a tone zone or a steve's special for bridge... but that will come later. Do those resistor things you solder to the pots make a big difference? Im thinking of getting one, are they easy to install, like just hook em to the tone knob?

Edit: What exactly do those SPDT things do? Are they for selecting different PU combo's?

Resistor Values? There are no resistors on my guitar. Are you talking about the Treble bleed mod? The work fairly well. I like not having though, i like having just a normal pot, and the natural decay of a standard pot.

The Capacitors I have on the switch do the same thing as a fully turned tone knob. I have 2 different capacitors, the .22 makes the sound very dark, and the .01 takes off just a little, smoothing things up and making almost a half-open wah tone, and harmonics are left intact. I think its much better than a tone pot.

The SPDT switch is just a switch that has one pole, it only performs one function. I have 2 of them, the FRED soldered to one of them, and the Air Norton soldered to the other. So I have independent pickup selection, and I can turn them both off at the same time, for a built in killswitch.

The switches I got from Radio Shack (the great ripoff), and they dont completely cut off sound. So when I turn off both pickups, your sound can still be heard very faintly. But it still doesnt make noise.

How does it work? What does it sound like? Does it sustain after the string is stopped? or just as long as the string is moving?

I may have messed up several places. I used a 500K pot instead of a 1K pot. I may have mucked up the soldering of the IC, my iron's tip was covered in crud.

My speaker may not have been powerfull enough. It may not even be Piezo.

I didn't have the right capacitor values. I will try it again later. I just wanted to hear my new pickups, which sound great.