SMellmo

I used Duplicolor paint and clear coat for my first refinish. the guitar LOOKS great but a year and a half later, the clear is still kinda "soft" i can push my nail through it. My advise is don't use it if you want your guitar to look good for a long time. For my second refinish, (my Charvel/Jackson model 2) i used duplicolor paint BUT instead of duplicolor clear, i used Dupont Chromaclear, which is automotive clear. The result is awesome. really glossy and hard finish. i guess the bottom line is "you get what you have paid for!"

yeah i'll probably buy a used Charvel neck plate from ebay so i can use the screws.

probably, but the thing is i *might* have accidently threw it in the trash with the newspapes i putted on the floor when i was painting/sanding. i cannot find it anywhere .

allparts have fender replacement screws the size is #8 * 1 3/4" and my screws appear to be "near" #10 size. I say 'near" because it the neck screw seems to be a little bit bigger than the #10 i found at a local bolts/screws store. they told me that they didn't have them in stock but they could order it. The thing is, i really don't think they would order 1 screw...(even 4 if i change all of them. it is probably sold in box of 100 or more. Plus, i didn't tell them that it was a little bit bigger than #10, so maybe the just can't get them anyway. it sucks

ok, i am refinishing my Charvel model 1 and i lost a neck screw while the guitar was diassembled.(duh) my local music store does not keep them in stock. I'll go to my local hardware store to try to get one and i would like to know the common size and thread per inch. (so it would be easier to get one)

you mean the "Armor Coat" rust paint type ??

thanks for the info LGM!

is there anything i could do to improve the drying time when spraying paint to get better results? like putting a heat source near the freshly sprayed body ? (like a halogen light)

i don't know if the Motomaster stuff contains enamel. There is a note on the clearcoat cans mentionning "Not for use over Enamel finishes". any clues?

i'll try on a piece of scrap wood.

Maybe it's just me but it seems that most rattle can clear coats are poor quality. I mean i refinished my les paul copy with rattle can paint and the clear doesn't seems to harden very much. It been 2 a half months and i could dig my nail through it pretty easily. The brand was Motomaster (sold at Canadian Tire, here in Canada). I know that is was quite hot during this summer and the humidity was high too, which did not help probably. I want to refinish the Charvel i've just bought 1 week ago, but i'm scared to get the same result. I did a test with Duplicolor rattle can clear coat. After 1 full day of drying, it is still a bit soft. it appears to be a little bit harder than the motomaster but still not satisfying. I have absolutely no ideas of what i did wrong. i mean, i used rattle cans a lot in the past but never used clear coat and i never had some sort of problems. i think i'll try Varathane spray can varnish, i used it over a solid color on my homemade footswitch and it turned out quite well(but is it a good idea to use this on a guitar body?) . Otherwise i guess i'll try to get some REAL automotive clear.

hi everyone! i have bought an old Charvel Model One off ebay and i'm curious to know when it was made. Is it possible to date it from the serial number ???

i'm about to do the electronic part on my les paul refinishing project. do i need some "special" wires type to do it or just plain wire will do the trick ?? and what gauge whould i use ?

try this : http://www.vhfans.com/boards/showflat.php/...5/o/all/fpart/1

Not the grey one. The red/brown auto body primer. The brand is Motomaster.

i sprayed the primer over the guitar body and then, i removed the masking tape over the bindings. i realized that the tape did not stick perfectly everywhere, so i now have some primer spots on the bindings. how can i remove this paint fume without damaging the bindings????? i thought about paint thinner but i think it will eat the plastic binding. the bindings are already sprayed with yellowish varnish so they have the "vintage" cream color. i don't want to remove the varnish off them when trying to remove primer fume. it sucks !

geez i posted that topic in a hurry that i did not see the electronic section! thanks for the help guys. it helped

Ok everyone, i need a little help here !! I have been looking at some pickups wiring diagrams and some of them had phase reversing switches and serie/parallel switches what is phase reversing and serie parallel switch ?? how does it affect the sound ?!?!

i have been looking at the Saga Telecaster Guitar kit that are on ebay and i was wondering if the pickups are good . ??

is there a way to print an autoCAD guitar layout on multiple pages without having a ploter?? i found a telecaster plan but i can't figure a way to print it with real dimensions with autoCAD.

i will try to heat them with the soldering iron. I have no idea if they were superglued by the previous owner. If it doesn't work, i'll try to pry them out like Southpa suggested. thanks everyone !!!!!

since i am refinishing my les paul copy, i have to remove all the hardware, BUT the bridge/stop tailpiece mounting studs are stuck there. how are they installed ? press-fit ?! i cannot figure a way to remove them without damaging the top of the body anyone ?

hi everyone! i'm new to this forum ! i'm currently refinishing an old les paul copy. This is my first project! I want to give my bindings the relic/vintage look. How can i achieve this?? I had to sand them down so they went from dark cream/yellow to light cream, almost white. does anyone know somekind of varnish/clear coat i could spray on them to get the relic/vintage look again ?? thanks everyone!