Maiden69

Hes done 2 with Buckeye Burl

http://www.soulmateguitars.com/joes_06.htm

Yeah, I think that Parable Guitars have one like that too. But that one is identical, from Pagan to Doug the lower part is changed.

Be aware that the hybrid set screw to fix the bridge is behind the bridge and fairly small needing an allan key to set it...this could be a problem with recessed versions.

pete

You can't see the "access" hole on mine? I had to recess because of a miscalculation doing the neck pocket, and that was the only choice! I wanted that bridge on this guitar.

It looks very nice, but that wenge back cover takes so much from it. If you can make a cover out of wenge, why not go the extra mile and make one with the same wood as the back?

Looks just like Doug's Model 06 guitar but a little more crude, they say "imitation is the sincerest form of flattering"

http://www.soulmateguitars.com/Chris%27s%2...006%20Burst.htm

Thanks for all the advice, everyone, and especially anderekel, for taking the time to photoshop the kahler onto my design. I'm leaning more heavily towards the kahler now, but if I do go that way, I'm pretty sure I'll go with the trem. It comes just as close to meeting my requirements as any of the hardtails, since the route doesn't have to go all the way through the guitar. I'm going to have to recess any of the fixed bridges on my list, so it seems like a little extra routing for the springs on the kahler trem won't be a big deal. I can lock it down if I decide to stay fixed, or unlock it and dive bomb like a mad man if I get a case of Van Halen-itis. I may still go with the recessed schaller, though. In my mind, the kahler does look a bit too big. This guitar design certainly doesn't have a metal feel to me, and the big bridges with fine tuners on them seem to have a bit of that hair metal vibe. I've got a little bit more time to decide before I've got the money to order the bridge, so there's no huge rush yet. On the other hand, the sooner I make my final hardware choices, the sooner I can finalize all my template designs.

Not only that but the hybrid has a set screw at the tail end that you can lock it in place if you don't feel like using the trem.

That turned out very nice!

Now that is an interesting question inDEED.

A lot of times when joining bookmatched lam tops, I use CA to glue them up, since it dries so fast, especially when using the accelerator spray, I can glue-up the book and glue the lam to the body within an hour or two.

So, I used medium viscosity CA from Home Depot (Loktite brand), then, once it was set up and clamps removed, I flipped it over on the backside and added some thin viscosity CA (Hotstuff brand) to tighten things up on the join.

...And I noticed something very interesting I had never noticed before...

The two different types of glue, when dried, gave two different appearances!

The Loktite did not totally sink into the finish, and it gave a very pretty amber-ish color to the wood.

The Hot Stuff COMPLETELY soaks into the wood (it probably would have taken 5 bottles to do top and bottom)

and when dried, gave the wood a very dark brown appearance.

Another thing about the thin viscosity Hot Stuff, it REACTED with the spalting in the wood, it sizzled and popcorned just as if I had added accelerator spray to it, this is not a good thing, this would have made things go south if I had used it as a topcoat finish.

I was very glad I saw this happen to the backside, so I could avoid it as a topcoat.

I used the medium viscosity Loktite as the topcoat, and it worked beautifully.

Very good information there Drak. Body is turning out nice!

I take it this was done an a scroll saw? If not, what did you use?

You don't know that Drak is the Master if the Scroll Saw!!! He uses it for EVERYTHING!

BTW, great pieces Drak! I always loved spalt, but always feared all the care needed to rout and work with it! Nice job!

I just got off of the phone with gilmer, and I have to admit, his explanation was pretty good. Although the piece was 3/4" thick, it was made for a 1/2" carved top.

Was this explanation posted on the website? Because it is complete BS! I have never bought from Gilmer, and from your experience never will. His prices are on the high side, especially when you have Durawood and other on e-bay that you get what you see. I have done several tops from Durawoods and from Rich here in the forum and they have always been TOP NOTCH. If they tell me it is 3/4", that's what it is!

Sweet Perry. Keep us in the loop!

Eddie como estas? Don't forget to give Durawoods a look.

http://www.3dhardwoods.com/

Maiden69, any particular reason you feel like the Kahler is the best of them?

Wes just answered for me... I guess I was a little late.

I like it because it is heavier, sturdier, and you have a lot of adjustments that will not have with the other bridges. String height, spacing, fine tuning at the bridge. Very user friendly.

I also have in my hands a kahler fixed bridge,and it is even better quality,and the ease f changing strings is much preferred...

But you will need a neck angle for the kahler,unless you recess it...which could also be very,very cool.

Maiden recessed his kahler,maybe he could tell you how far?

I did recessed mine, not because I wanted, but because I measured wrong on my last pass on the neck pocket and the fretboard ended too low. I went about 1/4" down, until the top of the bridge foot was flush with the top of the guitar.

From the ones you posted, the Kahler would be my choice. All the others are inferior.

From your pictures I noticed you are using house paint. Did you reduced it for spraying? Because that type of paint will shoot too think from a paint gun, and that is the reason you might had orange peel. Nest time you need to practice on some scraps to make sure the finish will work or look good.

For a moment I was about to ban and delete! Then I read the post... The title and user name told me SPAM!!!

I would had done it the way that PRS do their bolted necks, just to have more area to bolt the neck down.

I would have done it blue, but the natural coloring of the wood is pretty irreversible, so some sort of brown it will be.

If you want, there are two repeat pics you can remove if you want to, photobucket glitches.

Got it, It should look good anyway! And took the pics out!

That top keeps calling my attention! Very nice. BTW, I merged your posts, the rules were changed to allow for 4 pics per post so post away!

Coast Airbrush may still have some they have crazy amounts of stock on stuff. They also can recomend other products to get similar results.

Thanks!

Alsa's crazer is a similar but very different effect. Also they have discontinued some of their paints like the Cystal Fx.

Yeah, I was looking around their site for that one, since I want to make a guitar for my son with a kick ass finish... I don't like the crazer too much, so I will look around to see what I can do.

Very nice Wez, that is my favorite quilt figure! I got to start shopping around a little.

Sorry for posting to a old topic, but could anybody explain me how the eerie dess swirl is done?

Eerie Dess is not a swirl.

Erie Dess swirl is a product called marbelizer. You spray it on, place plastic wrap over it and twist it off.

You can do a lot of other stuff with it too,its a slow drying pearl paint.

It is a silver white pearl color.

The colors come from using transparent paints over it before clearing.(kandying)

Funny enough in some old House Of Kolor catalouges the cans of marbelizer are labeled Erie Dess.

Exactly. Or you can go to www.alsacorp.com and check their crazer

I’m not sure how to respond to the notion of using the laser as a way of “cheating”. I know there are purists out there, and I can respect that. But, you have to qualify it. The question is, what qualifies as “cheating”. Is it acceptable to use a PC to surf the web for information, but not OK to use a PC to generate a toolpath?

What I have found is most craftsman that have a problem with a certain technology only have a problem with the technology they don’t have…until they get the machine, or tool in question. Then they suddenly don’t have a problem with it any more. One of the main misconceptions of CNC based machines is most people who have never operated one before think they program themselves. These machines still take knowledge to program & skill to operate. When there is artwork involved, it takes an additional level of ability. Bottom line is: it’s just another tool.

Exactly, just like people using a router and grinders to carve a guitars top. I think that if you don't use planes and scrapers you are cheating too, ah, don't use a router to shape the back of the neck too, just spokeshave or rasps, are allowed. If not you are cheating!

People always have opinions, I care less what you use to get the job done, as long as the end result represents what you want it to be. It's just like saying that Thorn's guitars are not impressive because he uses CNC in his work... please.

Coming out very nice Wez!