Maiden69

Looking great! This makes me want to go and make a sister to my single cut PRS.

Sorry to hear that, I wasn't aware of your issues with the elbow. I just had a corticosteriod shot in my AC joint to relief some pain that has lingered for more than 6 months. Best thing I ever did, no pain at all a 2 weeks after the shot. As far as carving the top, I like using my 4.5" grinder with a flap disk, let me tell you, I will never use chisels again for that unless I want to do a recurve.

Hope you get better soon so you can finish this one.

Damn you are spitting guitars left and tight!!! I love quilt so I will be following this one for sure!

Hey, glad to see this ones finally getting done! The redwood burl is the one I'm waiting for!!!

The guitar turned out great, like Blackdog mentioned, the volute is doesn't fit into this guitar, it looks like a bump in the neck. Finish is very good, and that Behlen finish looks glossier than the regular one they use to sell. I'm using 2k paints now, but I may give it a try later on to see how it sprays.

Wow, that really sucks. And to think that I abuse the crap out of the ones I buy at Stew Mac and Lowes and to this day not a single problem...

Turned out great, I like the "ghost" look of the controls cavity. Looking at it now, it reminds me of the Marvel comics Dr. Octopus...

Of course a scroll saw can do it, just ask Drak, that is his weapon of choice for cutting almost everything body related.

Hard but not impossible. 1/4" quilt, I glued the top making sure that there was no glue on the arm rest area, and allowed to dry overnight. Then I wet the arm rest area, placed a damp towel on top and with an iron steamed it for about 3-5 minutes, once it started to get pliable I used quite a few clamps and clamped it down slowly. The trick is to go slow and make sure that the wood is pliable enough. You can test this by pushing on it once in a while, mine started to feel like soft urethane when I thought it was ready to bend. Once you bend it all the way down, let it dry overnight. I used a heat gun in low to blow some air between the mahogany and the maple and on the top a little. Once the top appeared dry, I left it till the next day. Removed the clamps, added glue with a brush to reach all the way into the arm rest and clamped again. Once dry I routed the top on a table router

I'm guilty of doing this in my first guitars. I simply made a template and then placed it on the blank and with my plunge router took about 3/8" at a time until I went through the entire thickness of the blank. Now I use a long blade jigsaw, or a band saw if I can get a hold of one and just cut as close to the line of the body, and rout the last bit like Chris posted on the video. Even when I was doing the rout through I rarely got a tear out. I think only one guitar out of the top of my head that it occurred, but the piece came out entirely and I was able to glue it without showing much tear signs.

Looks very good, I don't like the shape of the pick guard on that one, I think that if it followed the contour a little more towards the cut it would look a lot better.

I'm with him also, the Invader is not a good sounding pup. And Wes hit the nail in the head, it needs to be tamed down to get a good sound out of them. SD will continue to sell those well, because just as when I was starting to mod guitars when I was in my teens, most young players look for the loudest pick up available, and that is what they go with. Only in my 30's when I began to build guitars and joined here, I begin to realize the difference a good pick up gives to the sound. Just as important as the type of wood you use, the strings and everything else.

Even though it's got a Floyd etc, it looks "country" to me, nothing metal about it -

This is the same thing I thought when I saw it complete.

The clear did brought a lot of the colors back, looks good, but I somehow liked the more darker sinister look before the clear went on. Nevertheless a very good job for the first bio-mech job.

Not at all, HR Giger's work is awesome and everything ties into one idea. Once you added the black, you achieved this, before it was just a lot of "ideas" separated but in the same plane

for me its a little too dark now.... but still looks good.

I'm glad that you darkened it because I was thinking that it was looking over the top. Like going in all directions and adding stuff without making any sense.

Very nice!

Very nice, as I was looking through the pics I said "oh sht, that won't come out of there". But you clean it up very good. And the tone of blue is perfect against that limba.

You could had masked the binding and do the pore filing fist, then do the stain and be 99% worry free about staining the sides as you stain the binding.

Medium CA is not.It just takes more than one application

I know, but the way he explains what is going on I doubt that he used medium. I would rather use a good epoxy over CA for ash any day.

Sand as much as you can till you only have finish in the pores and paint again. Nitro will always shrink, the best way was to fill the pores with epoxy, then paint. CA is too thin to fill in that much grain.

Osorio, I like most of your guitars but this one needed a little more attention on the paint job. The top could had been wet sanded to get most of that orange peel effect out of it, and the heel needed more prep before the paint. Other than that, I really like the color, reminds me of the color of my first Teisco guitar many years ago!

I also agree with the comment about the fretboard being so high. It makes the bridge be too high.

Very cool Chris!

B, and like mentioned above, the headstock needs some attention

Wow, I got flash backs from David's guitars by looking at the inside of that one! That purfling looks great!

If it is shipped with a 2K clear coat, I suggest taking it to a body shop or motorcycle painter. They can shoot 2 light coats of clear whenever they are finishing a car, and shouldn't charge you much, since they almost always throw away some catalyzed paint at the end.