Gorecki

When trying to vote for something in the 'Other' category I get:

The error returned was:

You did not choose a poll choice to vote against. Please go back and ensure you click on one of the radio buttons next to the choice you wish to vote for

No matter how hard I try!

<img border="1" src="http://www.champlaincollege.qc.ca/st-lambert/site2/newsite/images/mainpage/banner_01.jpg">'>http://www.champlaincollege.qc.ca/st-lambert/site2/newsite/images/mainpage/banner_01.jpg">

i donno if this will work

That's an html image tag, this site uses it's own PHP style [^img]http://www.champlaincollege.qc.ca/st-lambert/site2/newsite/images/mainpage/banner_01.jpg[^/img]

Remove the '^' from each. I did that so you can see it.

I've been trying to figure out how the four GFS leads correspond to SD and Dimarzio but it's alil confusing because of the schematic that comes with the GFS. Does anyone know for sure what it is.... this is a boutoqe overwound PAF in the neck. I get

A B C D

SD ---- Blk White Red Gr

GFS ----Gr Red White Blk

I have a suspician that this might be completely backwards because I heard the are the *same* as SD. anyone know for sure?

Thanks,

Kiira

As I understand it the GFS pickups are reverse wound, so what you show above should be correct to wire the pickup with another standard pickup 'in phase'. Otherwise if you take it color to color the pickups will be out of phase from each other.

By all means give us a product review, I been tempted to get that exact pickup but have baulked without stats or reviews by others.

If that's true you will likely not be able to get the guitar to tune. Not only the scale length will be altered, but the distance of each fret should also be alter so..you'll never get the guitar to play in tune up the fretboard if you do that.

Hi I have to remove the top fret of a ebony fretboard and cannot afford to spend $25 at the moment for a fret remover - is there a way to get just one fret out without one? A locking nut is going in... maybe I could carefully dremel out the back of the fret to the tang depth? or something?

Kiira

I'm not sure I'm understand why a fret has to come out to put in a locking nut? I can understand taking out a regular nut and replacing it with routing and drilling for the locking nut, but why a fret..as someone else asked, what sort of guitar is this?

Feedback is a given in high gain, high volume environments. You must learn to use the volume control on the guitar to control this. Volume pedals will also cover this and I believe the GT8 has one.

Various volume differences in the GT8 are the owners fault! If someone's annoying an engineer it's because the engineer knows someone doesn't understand the gear. It's no different than if someone pulled a distortion pedal out of the box, plugged it in and said 'it's too loud' without adjusting the unit for balance, in the GT8 preset to preset.

Adding a noise gate to a GT8 that already has a noise gate is silly. Nothing will gate feedback unless it's a over-grown Parametric EQ where (as suggested) you can dial down the dominate feeding frequency(ies) and yes likely alter the tone.

If you spend most of your time in a small space and feedback is an issue, dampening the room may very well help as the reflective aspects of a small room compound the issue. This can be helped simply by draping blankets on walls or using proper acoustic baffling (get's really expensive).

Here's a reasonable thin vaneering tutorial on PG.

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/veneer.htm

First, I can pretty much assure you a few searches (upper right of the forum page) within the forums will produce answers to all the questions you've asked.....not discluding that YES YOU CAN MIX passives and actives, I do it all the time...and also has been answered more than once....

Second, welcome to the forum..

the guitar center only seems to carry the really big name amps (marshalls, mesas, crates, and fenders),

That's odd? They're a full line Crate, Line6, VOX dealer, plus more?

Edit, oh, you mentioned Crate, I never considered them big name.

I keep waiting for the day that your Strat build comes up for sale by some pirate on ebay.

I still say that you should beat them to the punch and sell that write up you did. It's really good.

I've had the same thoughts, keep expecting to find some idiot on eBay trying to sell it!

BTW: Nice new Avatar GF!

WWWWWWAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSUUUUUUUPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!

Father of 3 here....they suck the life out of you, but they're great!

You got that right!

Yeah, it's hard. I made a couple of (turned) sticks to be used for martial arts weapon and they were hell on blades. But you could hit a steel pole in a parking garage with them and dent it (not them)!

Well, doing a quick search at newegg, it's going to cost me at least $189 for a SPDIF equipped SoundBlaster. That plus the cost of the V-Amp is enough to pay for a Bass Pod. Decisions decisions.

GBT

Really? Well they've got some nerve! You can get a Delta 1010 LT for that kind of money that has considerably more to offer than Creative.

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/g=home...ase_pid/701376/

It really depends on what you want to do, I have many options in my studio to do things that many may not have so that additional cost certainly is a factor. Also, you don't have to go direct digital, I did because I could!

HARD AS A ROCK!

If this body is ready to use with all routing done in advance, it'll work and likely be very heavy and very bright sounding. If it's not ready to use and routing is required, be prepaired to go through some router bits because that stuff makes purple heart look like pine in density comparison.

But I haven't actually seen it used on a body but have worked with it.

Does it support recording over USB?

No it doesn't. It has digital i/o in various flavors but it doesn't act as a computer audio interface, you have to put an audio interface in between, what ever the flavor.

Even SoundBlaster cards have digital i/o these days and using something like that will show no loss in audio quality because it's digital to digital, the only loss would be when using the analog converters (SB's are cheap) to play it back but the original digital will remain.

I can't say so far I've found much value in most of the presets but that's pretty common.

Well I finally got a spine and went with the Behringer V-Amp Bass Pro.

I wired it up digital direct to my DAW and gave it a whirl.

First thing I checked was the highly acclaimed Ampeg SVT emulation and as far as I'm concerned that one sound is worth the cost of the unit.

First negative so far, envelope/filter based effects (auto wah, Ultra-Bass, Voc,Vcr) are extremely noisy/breathy. In mid play it's not noticable, then stop and...whosh!!!

I'll hopefully do some tracking with it in the next weekend or two to get a real world feel for it.

That's likely a lot of wood for a little dremel but the only other lesser expensive option that comes to mind would be chisels and if you don't have any experience with them could possibly be a complete mess.

With patience and care you should be able to get it done.

We have a long standing audio recording thread that may help for information on scope of things involved.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=6443

If the pots are dusty inside (crackly) but still work, they can be taken apart, cleaned and put back. But they can also be replaced, I would have to clause that with it could change the sound, but using the same pot resistance(s) should restore it to (somewhat) original functionality.

Straight forward, simple presentation packaging. I like that, no attempt to make it seem like something other what you see.

Best of luck!

naptha is the best "bare" wood cleaner.

Sorry, missed most of this..playoff's ya know.

Naptha is great for wood.

Otherwise, I agree with LGM, the paper is fragmenting like mad and/or scratches are filling with dust or...something

Actually, it is a felony to say "Patent Pending" if you do not have a patent pending.

Yup, just like you can't say 'v2.1.4 © 2006' if you don't have a copyright...right?

That pretty much settles that!

It's unfortunate but an element of gear these days. So many electronic things these days are intended to be replaced and not repaired, it probably will require the entire preamp/head stage of the piece to be removed to fix it if at all from the sounds of it.

It almost sounds as if you didn't get the scratches from the 300 out totally and are filling with paper dust. Have you tried, cleaning/tack cloth to see if it's just crud in the scratches?

Just a thought.