Gorecki

OK, does somebody else want to try explaining why getting two 8 ohm speakers is not a good idea? 

Have you found 6" 8 ohm musical instrument speakers..I couldn't. Otherwise it wouldn't be a bad idea. Running them in series would make 16 ohms, running in para would make the 4ohms, but I haven't seen any.

Wow, feel like I'm talking out my ass for no reason at all..been doing this stuff for thirty years...I'm done.

Hmm...I'm not sure. I did it on a Music Man 2x10 years ago and the grill cage pryed right off and was being held in place by little posts.

A cutting Jig for the pearl is something you can make easily but you can buy one with an air pump.

DUST MASK, DUST MASK, DUST MASK!

Wow, mind boggling that amount of patience that must take.

Do I want the speakers to be more than 80 watts at 8 ohms or less than 80 watts?

Technically you'd want more.

The wattage rating on a speaker is how much it can handle at its ohm rating. In theory, using more wattage 'could' damage the speaker. But this rating is also based on 'clean power'. I've never seen a guitar amp produce its watt rating as clean power because the way they fudge the numbers. Especially Solid State amps.

Generally a 100 watt SS head really will only produce about 25 watts of clean power or even less.

80 watts of continuious power out of a guitar amp would be painfully loud do to a guitar's limited frequency range.

Also, since the speakers are rated at 4 ohms, run in series means their wattage capacity would double.

A good example of all this is it's very common to use 100 watt Marshall head (or more) through 30 watt Celestian Green Back speakers.

The head unit amp thingie (you know what I am talking about) is 80 watts at 8 ohms. On the back, it has an external speaker jack and that says don't go lower than 8 ohms. What kind of speakers do I need? I am liking the Eminence.

You haven't said how many holes you have to fill with 6" speakers which factors in considerably.

2.

That being the case, you could get two of the 6" Jensens and wire them in series (they're 4 ohm which will be 8 ohm in series) and you're good to go.

The head unit amp thingie (you know what I am talking about) is 80 watts at 8 ohms. On the back, it has an external speaker jack and that says don't go lower than 8 ohms. What kind of speakers do I need? I am liking the Eminence.

You haven't said how many holes you have to fill with 6" speakers which factors in considerably.

Also, 6 1/2" is far more common then 6" for car audio.

Also, Mark II You can get Jensen 6" Fender Champ replacements from http://www.srs-webstore.com/music/jensen_m.htm

Or http://www.cedist.com/new/scripts/silverwa...m=P-A-MOD6-15-4

cool

thats a good idea

how much do those cost?

$35 US or less. They also come in a twist type where the middle is a U that you twist in a circle instead of a crank.

Buzz off Primal it's mine

actually i beleive that gorecki and maiden are in the que in front of you

Yep, ya got that right, so back off man!!!

Hand Drill

I've been considering something like this. For my first project, I want to make the body and buy the neck, but I can't find a neck for less than about 120, so it seems like just for the neck and the electronics this would be the best deal.

How's the quality of the wood components? Are the fretboards flat? How's the fret work? The nut comes slotted, correct?

Quality is not great, but not complete garbage either especially for the price. You can get just a neck (strat & tele styles only) from universaljems.com REALLY cheap. Brian's (not me) a good guy, he'll hook ya up.

Plastic nut pre-slotted, frets are okay, usally 12" radius on the above.

The necks for the saga kit for PRS style aren't available, only the S&T style are.

Hope it helps.

Brian

Great person to deal with: http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?View...&sort=3&rows=25

Wow what a sweet curl

Bookmarking that vendor, thanks Primal

if thats the case, what finishes are possible to do? I want to avoid doing just a flat colour like on Manchester Guitar Tech? Whats your advice?

I haven't seen a lot of transcolored clears out there, but they are out there. reranch.com has a vintage browning clear and a trans blue clear.

BUT since it's nitro, don't think they'll ship to the UK.

Dupli-Color's METALCAST (produces like a colored alumn/chrome look) without it's ground coat is a colorized clear. I've been planning on testing this out to see if it will do a sealed saga top well enough. What little testing I've done with it shows you have to spray very evenly. If the coat isn't even, the color gets darker in unevenly sprayed areas.

Hope it helps.

Brian

I like the idea of a wall clock. I like it a lot! If nothing else, you can use the body to practice your finishing techniques.

Had this idea for a while but haven't had anything to do with it, simply finish a body...put cheapo pickups in it. A clock's motor isn't hard to come up with...

So now your mission is to turn the POS body into a BAD-ASS guitar that is beyond what is expected for that body. Turn it into a zombie!

You read my mind. I've got plans of makin it worth my time. Thinkin YJM in the neck, Evolution in the bridge with a scalloped maple neck reversed, maybe even birdseye just to be a wanker. Don't know if this combo will work cause the Evo is so hot and the YJM is so light but that's my thinking.

Well to bring this saga to conclusion...I got a FULL REFUND and am also keeping the body. Think I'm going to take a crack at fixing the gap and it doesn't hold, I could always make it into a wall clock or something.

Brian

Ya, I know, don't buy it for a second either. It really appears to be a factory 2nd or worse that split long before shipping...anywho...I've got everything saved as email history and waiting for the refund. If it happens I'll give him a positive cause he did the right thing.

Too be continued..again..

Maybe this shouldn't be in the Solid body area..granted it started out that way cause I asked a question..?!?

Finally the too be continued..

I sent to the seller:

"The very clean body statement isn't what I would call

truthful unless the wood separation happened during

shipping which I really doubt. Here's a couple picks

of the split:

http://www.fullshred.net/guitarproject/Strat_Front.jpg

and

http://www.fullshred.net/guitarproject/Strat_Back.jpg

I don't know if I can fill this split and the body

stay stable and not split in half once string and trem

tension is a factor.

The fact that it's not the body pictured and wasn't

stated in any way it would be any other body then the

one pictured.

You mentioned 'refund your purchase price', does this

include shipping costs I paid as well? Shipping was

nearly 3x what you paid according to the postage on

the package.

I do not want to leave negative feedback, because

certainly I'll receive negative feedback though I've

held up my end of the deal promptly.

I hope that my notice of defect will be a full refund

of $50, plus the my cost of shipping to encourage

positive feedback or a replacement of equivalent

quality a body I believe I purchased will work as

well. I will return the defective body back to you on

the condition I'm refunded first. I do what I say!

Please advise."

Yes Jehle, I used some of your wording to a degree.

His first response:

"I will refund you the body and half the postage. that is the best I

will do. I am sorry if it does not meet your standards. I will do it when

I receive the body. I would have to be nuts to do it before I get it.

Its your call. do what you would like to do."

His second response seven minutes later:

"Actually, I was just looking at the body and there is no way I sent

it out like that. I would have used it for kindling first. No wonder

you were not happy. I think some postal guys had a little too much fun

with it in their annex. Damn Post office! GIVE ME A COUPLE OF DAYS

AND i WILL REFUND YOU 50 BUCKS. ITS A PRETTY BLATANT CRACK AND i DONT

BLAME YOU FOR NOT WANTING IT. SORRY ABOUT THAT IT WAS DEFINITELY NOT THAT

WAY WHEN I SENT IT OUT BUT I LIKE TO SEND OUT GOOD STUFF. AGAIN

APOLOGIES TO YOU AND JUST KEEP IT FOR KINDLING."

the round tube is a shockabsorber from the tailgate of a Civic, that way I bolt it to the table, and turn the guitar as I paint, over lapping 50% in every stroke...

BRILLIANT!

So, you took the shock off a hatch back and then made it into a jig? I see you made a neck pocket fitting to attach to it and also keeps the pocket from getting painted without having to mask I presume. You have a pic of this jig?

I've seen at wayne guitars where they have a pole that hooks into a swivel base so they can rotate the guitar while they paint then take it off and hang it to dry. I wish I could figure out how to do that.

Sure it won't be the last. I personally really like it. Granted it's minorly a bitl like one I am going to do but it's got character! Your stripe is unique, the color is great and the fretboard is the icing on the cake. Looks the figure of the wood got better on the board. I'd give it an A+ for converting a Squire into a real guitar.

BRAVO!!! An axe YM would be proud to play (if he wasn't color blind)

Did I miss something, you were saying you scalped out the 12th inlay from going to deep but they seem to have magically appeared?

Cool, I wouldn't mind playin that!

Brian

Since they haven't got back to us, I did find one on eBay Linky

It is a 24 fret.

Brian

What I sent to the seller is:

"It arrived today. Body looks like complete crap

compared to the one in the picture. I wasn't aware it

wasn't going to be the body in the picture?

Especially the large wood separation in the middle."

His response was:

"Actually that is a very clean body. If you want to send it back I will

refund your purchase price. Let me know what you would like to do. "

I'm going to respond and ask to clarify his definition of 'purchase price'. I paid 32.00 for the body and 18.00 for shipping. Actual shipping was 7.49. If I have to pay to ship it back to get the 32.00 back I'll out of pocket ~26.00 and have nothing to show for it.

To be continued.....

upon further looking...i think i agree that it is not the same body at all

Ya it's not. I didn't take a pick of the full backside. The pick on eBay you can see a small knot on the back toward the lower cutaway between the glue seams. That's a cosmetic I noticed before purchased and figured I would solid color anyway so I noticed that right away that it was different.