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Gorecki

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Posts posted by Gorecki

  1. Also have a, don't laugh, Sears 50W TUBED AMP on it way. Old very old but works and sounds great.

    Man, that brings back memories!! Years ago, I use to have two Silvertone 35w tube heads with 2x12 cabs, spring reverb.

    Man I wish I would have never let go of those. :D

  2. Also, from my own inference based on my knowledge of electronics, the higher the resistance, the less highs are going to be coming through.. If someone could confirm this, it'll be good..

    Yes you're correct. B)

    The thing I discovered years ago is high resistance picks are hotter and do roll of some of the frequency range of the pickup (advertised as midrange punch).

    I turn I went through a handful of heavy output pickups and never liked their sound. Duncan invader is one that comes to mind that sounded like crap.

    Then I went to duncan live wires, did their high output which was okay, but then got the classic version (more normal PAF tone but warmer and brigher) and absolutely loved it.

    I think a great tone doesn't come from high output, it's the backend that counts the most. Good tubes, and hot amp will make any pickup sound good.

    Good luck :D

  3. It's been read and said a billion times but it's TRUE. REPLACE THE TUNERS. I ordered my tele kit and got Gotoh tuners as a replacement, then I got the kit in the mail and looked at the tuners that was intended and they do SUCK! Reminds me of my first Global guitar back in the 70's.

    Brian

  4. I can't say for certain it will allow for a 70's style strat head but I pretty sure it will.

    I recommend getting the kit from UniversalJems.com because he does preinspect the kit, offers options like different necks and such and also prepaints the pickup cavities with shielding paint.

    Just make sure you tell Brian you want an 'uncut' headstock. Who knows, he may even be able to do it for you...not sure on that.

    Brian

  5. I would go through the build and string it up first. If the nut needed adjustment, then I would start tweaking it.

    Having said all that, I don't think it would be too hard to ease the nut out of the slot and clean it up with a small file.

    Thanks, so far it appears the nut is seated as far as it will go, could be there is some clear coat under preventing it from going all the way into the slot.

    The chipping on the neck is pretty ugly, the pic's don't really show it as much as it appears to me.

    You know of any references on nut removal, and possibly a 'fix chipped finish on the neck near the nut' tutorial. :D

    Appreciate the help.

    Brian

  6. Howdy All,

    I'm trying to determain if I should attempt to fix the following problems on a Kit neck or beg the vendor for a replacement (knowing it may take a month or more if at all).

    I'm learning more and more all the time how novice I am. I was hoping to basically just focus on learning how to finish the guitar and most everything else would be pretty much ready to go. :D

    Okay, on to the question(s), the following picks show the nut is not level on the surface, gapped and the neck finish chipped on the top side.

    HeadNutLevel_small.jpg

    NeckNutChip1_small.jpg

    NeckNutChip2_small.jpg

    I question if I should attempt to remove the nut, strip the clear coat on the first fret and nut area, refinish and put it back.

    I get the impression this is not an easy task for a first timer though I would probably learn a lot from doing it. Also at the same time wouldn't know were to begin on removing the nut refinishing without screwing up the neck, nut and the first fret.

    What would you guys suggest? B)

    Thanks a bunch in advance.

    Brian

  7. what happens if you buy a neck and then realise its too small or too big?

    If the strat copy stays true to the neck pocket demensions and scale of a typical Strat, it shouldn't be a problem. There's a basic neck legend at Warmoth to give you the specs to find out if your existing neck is the same.

    Good luck.

    Brian

  8. Howdy all,

    I’m just getting started on my first Tele Kit I got from Brian and wanted to start my question asking (there will be many to come from this novice) before I do anything (especially anything stupid)!

    So, my first question is how do I go about mounting a maple neck that doesn’t have predrilled holes? Small part of the problem is there’s clear coat in that area as well that I would think may factor in.

    My first guess would be to set the neck in the pocket as snuggly as I can, then tape off a drill bit (to show how deep to go) and tap the holes through the body as deep as the screw would go (including plate thickness).

    Am I headed in the right direction?

    I am a complete novice so I'm certain there will be Many, Many more REALLY stupid questions to come. :D

    Brian

  9. Nothings better than a JAZZ III for shredding :D I used a metalpick once.. i didnt like it, it broke strings pretty quick and made the guitar sound sterile.

    Ditto on the Jazz III's, been using them for years. B)

    Metal picks shread strings quickly, they'll literally scrape the string flat and even splinter (metal splinters suck). But the do sound really cool for about five minutes. :D

  10. I doubt that....nobody knows lynch nowadays....maybe in the USA it is better but at least here in Germany George Lynch is a nobody. I like his playing alot, but what did he play recently?

    Actually, he was just through this area on tour with Malmsteen. :D

  11. Yep, I'm jumping on the stranded wire wagon. It's just like a speaker wire, the higher the stand count, the less induced resistance. Granted guitar wiring is very short in length in general and seriously reducing the chance of induced resistance but none the less I'd air on the side of 'everything inline makes the whole' on a sound signal.

    My 1 1/4 cents (not yet qualified for 2 cents)

    Brian :D

  12. Hello All! B)

    I'm new to the forum as well, been lurking for a couple of weeks and finally ordered a Saga Tele kit from Brian (nice guy by the way) with some options (different tuners, maple neck, string through body ferrels).

    rat420: I'm starting out with a 'cheap kit' as my first and will probably do a couple/few more of them, primarily because I want to learn how to do some finishing before I step deeper into the 'making' vs 'assembling' efforts. I have literally NO woodshop skills or tools but know guitars (been playing for 30 years) so I'm going to start small.

    Anywho...just though I'd throw in my 1 1/4 cents (not qualified for 2 cents yet) and shout out....DUDES! :D

    Brian

  13. I've read that SG stands for solid guitar.

    You're right. Originally Les was going through a divorce with Mary Ford and was originally 'Les Paul SG' but his name was removed (due to the divorce) and renamed 'SG'. The SG was it's production name, they never gave the guitar a real name of its own.

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