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sarradan

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Posts posted by sarradan

  1. Hello everyone,

    I have a guitar body that was shot with 2 part poly at an autobody shop. A blister has developed  about the diameter of a quarter on the back near the input jack cavity.

    Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a fix other than stripping it down and starting over. 

    Can glue be injected in?

    Thanks

     

    IMG_0419.JPG

  2. Hi

    I just thought i'd post some pics of a couple projects i have going.

    The first (bottom routed) was a unfinished jem body clone i bought off the net.

    I swirled it and had it cleared at an automotive shop. It still needs a wet sand buff and polish but it really close to done.

    I just bought a maple /maple neck with pearl pyramid inlay neck made. I will swirl the headstock to match.

    the second (top routed) was originally off my old jem 555. I just finished the paintjob last night.

    I swirled the headstock to match but haven't got pics up yet.

    http://cid-e7964c38443c1009.photos.live.co...wse.aspx/Jem555

    Also i was wondering What was the best way to put the logo onto the headstock?. Do the decals work? If so do you put them directly onto the paint? Could a stencil be made and spray paint it on? has anyone tried this menthod? Any other ideas?

    Any feedback would be appreciated.

    thanks

    Sarradan

  3. I've done swirl three times on guitars already. And hundreds of test dips :D

    Testor paints dries too quick for me (that's unadvantage) but dissolves slow and steady (advantage). For swirling more than two colors you need the opposite - dissolving fast and drying slow. That's why Humbrol paints are better.

    My experience:

    - adding more borax speeds up dissolving

    - higher temperature speeds ud dissolving and drying

    - thinnig the paint speeds up dissolving

    - using more paint gives better colors (I think Sarradan should use more paint, see red on picture below - while doing swirl on the guitar I used less red paint, on scrap I used more)

    - wait too long with puring next color and it'll 'eat' the first

    - dip, use something to clean the surface of water and pull out the guitar

    - blow the water off with an air gun

    My latest (test...) swirl.

    img1733api1.th.jpg

    I've used less paint on the body, that's why the colors are different and it actually like red and black ants B) Red and black are humbrol paints, yellow is testor (it didn't dissolved well...).

    Previous swirl:

    img1573asy6.th.jpg

    img1325aww3.th.jpg

    rozymrb1.th.jpg

    And a movie :D

    Last two paints were thinned too much and when I pured white (ok, too much...) black was already dry.

    Very nice!

    Hmm how big is your tub?. Dimensions and volume? On the PG tutorial he used 50 gallon rubbermaid drum, with 1 cup of borax. I am using a 48 gallon container with 1 cup of borax.

    I tried some more test dips tonight to mixed results. The temperature of the water and garage was stable. The first couple were exactly the same result, skinned over no good.Then we got 3 in a row to work , then 2 that didn't. This leads me to believe that the temp humidity and borax content must all be in perfect order for the viscosity of the paint you are using.Testors is the only paint i have used, but i think you can account for the drying time by adjusting the other factors ie thinning the paint,borax etc).I also believe that the water surface is critical.The first color down has to be the perfect viscosity and weight to create the exact surface for the other paint to move on.Too little and it dries and strands the other colors, too thick and it overloads and the colors clot.

    here is one i did that worked

    http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s153/shrly2/swirls023.jpg

  4. what happens alot is i let it sit for a second or two then it dries on the water so i use a skinny dowel or something like that and gather up all the dried parts and

    sometimes there is paint still floating around that isnt dried but it tends to be very thin and wouldnt cover a whole body. im pretty sure its gloss not matte. do u have problems with every color or only some. For some reason the blacks greens and reds are extremely difficult to get to work, but when i use silver for example it works almost every time. i think i will try thinnning the paint just a little w/ mineral spirits.

    Hi

    I emailed testors and they said there should be no difference in drying time between matt and gloss.But temp and humidity definitly will.Enamel is designed to dry extremely fast.

    every color i use dries almost instantly. I have bought new paint, and used a bunch of old paint from the 1990's.I have had the same expirience with scraping off the dried part to find paint moving perfectly underneath but too weak of color to use. The weird thing is when i put a new deep red in the water it turns pinkish. An art store person told me probably the solution is too strong and is destroying the red pigment.We had it working perfectly one night, then not at all.

    I just need to know what element causes the paints to dry.Still stumped.

  5. i used about a little more than a cup of borax and testors paint and kept having problems w/ the paint skinning over, as in it would create a film over the surface. but for some reason when i put the paint in the last time it didnt skin over so i dipped it and it came out fine

    Has anyone come up with a cause of the paint drying?.I am having the same problem. I know on the tuorial on this site says don't use testors, but, my first run (15 dips in all) went well.The nex day i came out to try more and my paint dries almost on contact. I changed the water heated it up cooled it down added borax and took some out. I'm stumped.

    Can you think of what if anything you did differently? Did you use gloss or matt testors paint?

  6. I decided to email this yahoo, asking him why he was selling info that was already available for free on this site. Here is his response;

    Dear ******,

    The information now is far past anything on Project Guitar. I talk about

    dipping methods. Names of paint that work and are affordable in large

    quanities and can be customized. I explain techniques how to swirl your

    paint. Not just brush like a tard. Plus alot more. The Project Guitar site

    was made to throw people off track. It gets your feet wet and I tell you

    how to do swirls that you will be happy with. I can tell you how to swirl

    like the guys selling swirl bodies on ebay.

    The information I provided

    at first is far behind what Im selling now. Experienced Swirl vets have

    even commented I might leave out some simple techniques to keep their

    business alive. LOL

    Have I sold this info to you?

    -tiggie_00

    I was tempted to repond to his question at the end with another email i.e. "No, because I may be crazy, but I'm not STUPID!!", but I'll take the high road on this one.

    Cheers

    I was dumb enough to bite on this turd. I sent Mr Calvert exactly what he sent to me and it was all from the project guitar site.As of today his ebay link is still active.If he has found a loophole by adding additional material, or eliminated the PGF tutorial, makes me wonder who else he is stealing from. If he actually knew how to swirl, why bother copying pages? Are you that lazy you can't write out the instructions?. Every school kid knows if you gonna copy homework you at least have the brains to re write it before handing it in....jeez.

    i'm not letting this one go, and i don't think he should be able to get away with it either.As far as i can tell from ebay he sold 7-10.

    I figured by posting it on a forum where people would be interested in the subject, would be most effective.

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