Bmth Builder

I think you mean staying at uni doing physics or staying in queen. But he definatly built the first guitar of the same design he uses today.

But if its his guitar that he always plays, he could still argue it to be his signature guitar (for example brian mays signature guitar was made by him)

So what qualifications do you need? i.e will you train people from 0 to any skill level, or do you actualy have to have some luthiery skills?

Hey all, I'm looking for a scrap peice of mahogany for a control cavity cover. Dimensions 110mm x 220mm, thickness not an issue (5mm ish would be idea) Thanks

Just measure the scale length from the nut to the saddle of the bridge?

I think it started off thicker than the body, and he veneered some off of the top and back face. Then used those bits (with the grain exactly matching the body) to make the covers in the correct places on the grain.

Looking for 2 sets of pre wired long shaft 25k volume & tone pots Cheers

I wouldnt glue a neck into a bolt on pocket, because there wont be enough surface area to make a good joint. Clamp the neck into the pocket and draw through the existing hole on the body onto the neck to show where the hole needs to be drilled for the bolts. If the body is already drilled for the bridge ensure that you have a neck to match it e.g the number of frets and the scale length need to match what the body is drilled for.

I received mine the other day and its signed, its pretty cool, but its definatly nothing special, I mean I've never met the guy and I havent even started reading the book yet. That said if it really helps me and saves my ass I'm sure it will mean a lot more to me in a few years that he actualy took the time to sign it.

How are Stew Mac truss rods anchored? I know some TR are anchored at the body end of the slot, with the adjustment screw at the head stock, but with the hot rod there is nothing to anchor it any where. So when you do the slot off the end of the neck and onto the head stock to allow for a adjustment area, what’s stopping it just falling out when ever you take the cover off? Heres what I mean... Surely you could just pull that out horizontally even with the FB glued on top? I'm having a bit of a brain fart and this has got me confused lol Cheers guys PS with my build I was thinking of stopping the slot basically at the nut and starting it again like 5mm later on the head stock, and then drilling a lil hole through the barried to fit the adjust ment nut through, so that it is effectively boxed in, but still adjustable. But this means you couldn't remove it with out taking the fret board off...

Yeah I ordered it and a 25.5 template We need to start an online petition to get stew mac to introduce a 27" scale template. I emailed them about it and they said they would 'pass it on to the R&D department' whether he was serious I dont know. But I'm sure if a lot of people asked they would.

NEW QUESTION! Go to post 5! Cheers! A lot of people sheild their control cavities on their builds but I opened up my Ibanez the other day and there was no sheilding, so is it actually worth doing? Or is it just a novelty that has negligable difference?

Hey does this tool work well? I'm going to pick one up for slotting my own board, and just wanted to check its accurate, stable, easy to use etc http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl..._Miter_Box.html Cheers

^ Now Im confused lol You say that you might risk chipping if you lacquer and then slot the FB. But you will also find it hard to clean the slots, if you slot then lacquer. So you screwed either way?? Could you fill the slots with wood or card or something, lacquer, and then take them out? Also what is the full title of the best bob flexor book, I have found like 4 differnt versions. Is the 2nd addition the one to go for? Cheers

I dont really know what I want TBH, as far as lacquer type goes. I'm kinda a finishing n00b, so just trying to learn atm Could you press the frets after lacquering the F/B? Because thats how I plan on fretting it any way.

This may be a trivial question but please humor me. When do you lacquer a maple fret board? Before or after fretting? I assume that it goes before/over the inlays as well? Also what type of lacquer? Like nitro gloss or satin? I assume if you satin the neck you would satin the FB? Cheers

This is a majorly old topic but I'll chime in any way I have noticed that this forum thoroughly advises buying the book as does other forums, for which he is I'm sure thankful, but I have never seen an e book of it. I purchased a few weeks ago and I'm still readying through it at the moment. Glad to give a little bit back, to what I am sure is now a profitable business (I really cant imagine that self publishing the latestest addition that has sold tons isnt making him a few bob these days).

^ I would love to see that video narrated as well

Sweet cheers I'll probably use that dyed black sycamore for the body veneer from the company you posted, as actual ebony will cost a bomb

^ would you not see a line if you joined peices together? I also read on a website that some one used a big peice of black cardboard between the body and cap so make an ebony esque accent line (though much cheaper I imagine) How would cardboard react to glueing and sanding? I can imagine the edges fraying alot if you tried to sand it...

Can you explain what you mean by that? sorry lol

What is Johns sig then? just a decal? Wez you said the inlay would be hard to do, but if you got a flame maple veneer lazer ingraved and then placed over the black back ground would that work? and then fill with clear epoxy before lacquer? Cheers

Wow thanks guys, some of those guitars are really stunning! On one of the John page guitars he had a black accent line under a flame maple head stock veneer, and what looks like a really intricate inlay (his signature) over the top of the flame maple. Could you just cut through the veneer so that what you see as an inlay is just the black ebony behind it? and then build clear up so that its level. That would be really cool.

Hey I just wondered if any one had any pics of a all natural guitar with contrasting accent lines. For example, I was thinking of a build with some wood I've got Flame ash body, birds eye maple top, birds eye neck (with some kinda lams I havent decided on), flame finger board, flame veneer on head stock. and I was wondering what it would look like to veneer ebony between the body and the top, neck and fb, and between neck lams. Could look quite nice? (I'm worried about it being to bright though, but thats another issue)

Hey has any one had any experience with the LMII radius blocks? They do 1 radius on each side which seems like a good idea (less blocks) and differnt sizes (go up to 12" which is pretty cool) I was just wondering of the quality before I order my self a 10/12 & 16/20 radius set http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....r=Radius+Blocks Cheers