cherokee6

When that drill was made (plastics didn't start appearing in abundance-and then on cheaper tools-til the mid-70's), they didn't have GFI's. GFI's didn't start becoming a required feature for bathrooms til - yes- the mid-70's. We used what I still use: a standard 3 prong outlet. However a power strip is a great idea. I have a plug-in Porter Cable that's about 15 years old and still plug it directly into an outlet, and that has a magnesium body (of course I use the cordless more, now). That Milwaulkee would be great in a heavy duty drill stand to be used as a drill press-but get a GOOD quality stand!. Good Luck!

You might have to bleach it. Some of the other members would probably know how to do it properly on a git neck.

Yes, they're built in Indonesia, I believe. I've looked into them, but they're only available in 1 store about 25 mi. from me in Middletown, NY (billsterl would know, and another in Newburgh, NY) . Anyway the theory, design,and features are impressive. Unfortunately the only two I was able to try weren't very impressive. One's neck was bowed quite a bit, and the other just didn't feel right to me. However, that doesn't mean they won't feel nice to someone else!

If that doesn't work try using an impact hammer.

You can try these guts as they may be able to get it for you:

http://pickguards.us/links.htm

You can also get B/W/B and color the white after you cut and bevel it. I'm sure there's a technique to it that would make it look original vs. just colored. There are paint markers, etc. that may do the job...just a suggestion.

I have a file of it on my computer in pdf format if you'd like. Check with Matt, but I don't think he'll mind if I share it with you. If it's ok, send me a PM thru the forum.

Actually most Home depots have maple and poplar. I believe the maple comes in sizes up to 1x6 and the poplar at 1x8. The poplar also comes in a 2" thick size also.

Yes, it's been done. Some of the major manufactures will use multi dimensional pieces and paint it over. You can also check this guy for some ideas:

http://www.zacharyguitars.com/Currently_for_Sale.htm

Look around his site. He's a bit wacky, but he makes some nice gits. His newest is made out of an Ikea table; butcher block style. There's a very recent thread in the solid body chat.

OK! Good luck with it.

Need more info and some pics, but it sounds as though you're going to have more problems. You could get a set of easy-outs to get the screws out. I'm guessing that the neck is out of alignment and not the bridge. The neck is probably pulling towards the front more than it should and is succumbing to the string tension. I'm betting it's not as tight against the body as you think it is, especially where there's a split/crack at the heel. If that's happening and screws are breaking, something else is going on and playing with the bridge will only be a short, if any, fix. Check your truss rod also; is it adjusted properly? Is it broken?

You haven't explained why the bridge "is the problem". I'm assuming you don't have a trem. Raising will effect the action and possibly intonation. Have you tried raising each individual string by the bridge's adjustment screws (I'm assuming you have a tele bridge, but not sure which one. The traditional barrel types can be a problem to adjust.)?

If you can, get us some more info and pics (see the rules on posting pics). Sorry for the not so encouraging response, but I think, based on what you tell us, it's best to tackle that problem before anything else. I'm sure with more info the forum will be able to respond better.

I didn't know Stew Mac delivered to subs!

"You don't need no stinking name for a guitar!!" : sorta paraphrased from bandit guy

The git is gorgeous!! Have many years of enjoyment with it; don't do any Pete Townsend with it!

You can also search ebay under "bridge posts" or "bridge studs". I've been successful with those.

Welcome aboard, skipper! Whereabouts in CT? I'm just over the NY line straight from Danbury about 35 mi on I84.

It's gorgeous! It'll have a warmer sound than maple but not as warm as say, mahogany. Should be a nice change from the standard Tele woods. Leave it natural. I hate it when people paint over wood with beautiful grain.

I don't believe they have websites. The guy in Middletown will probably do more contemporary stuff, you'd have to discuss it with him. The guy in Sussex is more old school. Does ALOT of LP work, hollows and semi-hollows. Send me a PM and I'll give you the names and #s. However, you may also want to communicate to Painit by PM and see if he does more of what you are looking for.

I know the guy in middletown did some minor work on my LP (in the avatar at left with Les Paul), fret dressing, setup. etc. and did a beautiful job of clearcoating, buffing, etc. for about $300, which is a steal. He's a well respected luthier in the Hudson Valley. Another guy who's also a bit legendary lives in the Catskills, but is too far for you (Middletown is right up 17). The guy in Sussex is excellent and has worked with Les for over 40 years. He also runs a school. It's probable that he won't have the time as he has about 30 guitars from well known people in various states of repair. So send me a PM and I'll give you the info., contact Paintit also and decide what you'd like to do.

Looking very nice; I like the custom knobs.

I agree with Mickguard. If you want to advertise there are rules for it and such announcements go under another topic. Several individuals have joined the forum to pick up biz and are met with the same response.

My $.015 for what its worth check drawings of SG's. Their tenons go under the humbucker. The earlier models, if you recall, did not have this feature and were connected towrd the very end of the fingerboard. As a result, they were not very stable and would break at that joint. It was redesigned to have a stepped tenon to reach further into the body, under the pup and was attached at the 19th?? fret instead of the 22nd?? There is a thread about the sg designs which you can also read about in Melvin Hiscock's book for some more accurate info. I'm assuming PRS did something similar by the pics. It looks as though they left 1/4-3/8 in (6.35mm-9.52mm) of meat on the body and used a stepped tenon which, from your side view, looks like a stairstep so it will fit under the pup. Hope this is of some help.

Pretty nice! Am I correct to assume that the longer horn is the top one? Take a look at the Rickenbacker bass to get an idea. You'll probably still want to wait until the neck and guts are installed to feel its balance.

OK, I'm too lazy to read all the posts. My $.02: metric is a superior system and should be used in the US as it fits with a number of decimal based systems such as our monetary system. It has been more of a complaint by manufacturers as to the cost of retooling, people having to learn something new, etc. All of you scientific measurements with the exception of a few, such as meteoological measurements in the states are based upon the international language of metrics. Globalization - a phrase I'm beginning to despise- will probably force the few of us left with the imperial/sae measurements into mm or a dual system for now in order to accomodate manufacturing, consumers, etc.

Oh yeah the point of this thread; I'm from Fishkill (Hudson Valley) of New York State, USA. And I agree with Melvin, perhaps, if we can keep it mind, to try to use both measurements in our threads. (of course that won't stop me from forgetting!)

There are some guys that give daily or weekly courses with all sorts of flexibility for which class to take, etc. They are usually a lot cheaper. Check some places in your area; music shops, etc. If you take a short term course it will give you a lot of info, you'll still invest in the tools and it may help you decide if you want to do it full time or not.

There was a 1 or 2 week course given in Stratford, VT. not far from Hanover (Dartmouth College) NH years ago when I was going to school up that way. It was run by the guy who designed and built GRD guitars (with the built in equalizers and a polymer type of fretboard; looked like double cutaway LP's). He was getting some notice in the '80's, but I'm not sure if he's still around. The luthier's name was/is Charles Fox. Good luck with your decision.

PS: a quick Google found this: http://www.newportguitarfestival.com/lectures.html

New guys have to bring the coffee and danish!! Welcome! (bty I like the strong Columbian blend)

I don't believe it is recommended to use forstner bits in anything but a drill press, but this MAY be an exception.

My .02 (for what it's worth): stick with the walnut and maple. You chances of having better tone are with those if the sizes are adequate. You may check on the recent thread by a member on using oak. It's in the solid body chat within the last week.