BA3844

I will have to remove my masking tape a little sooner so the residue doesnt stick to the paint job. The paint adhered greatly to the guitar but the only thing between the paint and clear would be that goo gone layer. From all the stuff I read about as far as Duplicolor clear not being any good...is there also the chance that this is what to sometimes expect from rattlecan clear? Or was this most defintly something in what I did wrong..like the goo gone part? And thanks for all the feedback

I was wondering if that may have messed it up. It sure did remove the masking tape residue. I just cleaned it with mild soap and water and made sure I wiped it all down really good before clearing it.. Maybe it did leave a microscopic residue behind. How many cans should I have to use to clear coat. I went through 2 cans of duplicolor and the thickness of what I was scraping off with my fingernail was as thick as a piece of scoth tape. So you think the humidity would not have done that? 65% humidity did cause a little blushing of the clear coat buff that was handbuffed out.

I used dupli-color lacquer paint and clear lacquer spray cans . I had research through all the forums and everybody says dupli-color spray lacquer is fine. I know it isn't hvlp quality but it looked very nice after I hand buffed it. I really didn't even have to wet sand that much because it was glossy enough, I didn't want it gleaming because EVH didn't even clear coat his original frankenstrats. I just have never read of any similar problems like this with others who have clear coated before. Only a couple of coats may have been sprayed with 65% humidity, nothing more than that. Its like the clear coat held fine, I would have never noticed a problem until I saw that tiny 1/8 " sized little ding in the finish. If I would have known I would be sanding the whole thing down again I might of just put some clear lacquer on that tiny spot and hoped it never would get banged around. You could take your finger nail and scrape up sections of the clear coat like you were scraping a decal off a glass window.

I thought i was done with my refinishing project until I noticed a small tiny chip in the finish. When I tried to scratch off the chip/speck..the clear coat began chipping off more and more. Some spots can actually peel away as big as 1/2 inch square sections??? I did a EVH design, and after I had removed the tape I had to use goo-gone to get the remaining masking tape residue off. I am sure I cleaned the guitar good before clear coating it. Also ..could I have clear coated when it was to humid? The can says below 60% humidity, can 65% humidity really have been the culprit on a couple of the coats. I used 2 cans of duplicolor clear lacquer over lacquer paint...How many cans should be used to do the clear coats. The guitar was looking great, I had it polished and was starting to reinstall everything. Please suggest what went wrong.

I had to redesign my HSS diagram and want to know if this looks right?? I want the ability to have my bridge HB on a direct full output and then be able to toggle up on the mini switch to have all 3 pickups if I want (neck,neck-mid, neck-mid-along with blended in bridge HB)

I finally was told as to how to post diagrams so here it is. The mini switch may be setup wrong, not sure if this will work?? So please someone tell me how I can have my bridge HB direct for the most output with minimal load, and still be able to switch over to my 5 way so that I can use my no-load blender for the bridge and neck. The blender is so I get all 3 pickups on at the same time. Please no schematics, I do better with wiring diagrams...thanks.

I finally was told as to how to post diagrams so here it is. I think of the mini switch as sort of like an old A/B switch on a TV...and I bet I am wrong. So please someone tell me how I can have my bridge HB direct for the most output with minimal load, and still be able to switch over to my 5 way so that I can use my no-load blender for the bridge and neck. The blender is so I get all 3 pickups on. Please no schematics, I do better with wiring diagrams...thanks.

I plan on using this ACME diagram as my base starting point. Then I would like to ADD in a mini on-on switch for the bridge HB, and istead use no-load blenders at BOTH tone pot locations. So that I hope to be able to switch to just my HB and have no load on it for more output...sort of that "brown sound"..EVH tone . Question is: will this work or is there an easier diagram to use? I MUST still be able to switch back to the 5way and be able to then blend in the bridge and neck..and visversa (position 2 and 4) so I canstill get all 3 pickups. Also I plan on to hard mount the humbucker to the control cavity like EVH did...I think that may help in getting that sound also. Here is my "starting out" diagram..I can't figure how to actually post my own drawing. http://www.acmeguitarworks.com/pdf/WiringD...rat_Blender.pdf Thanks for any help.

Has anybody used the "11 sound HSS strat with the no load "dial-a-tap" before?? I think it looks like the diagram I want to go with but Rothstien has two conflicting diagrams, the on-on switch in place of the push-pull has me scatchin over the way the neck on switch is actually wired. Should I wire the neck to the mini on-on first or after the 5 way switch.....I need a experts advice ....check out the two diagrams please. http://www.guitar-mod.com/rg_dialatap_11.html http://www.guitar-mod.com/wiring/dial_a_tap11.gif I want the neck on switch so I can have all 3 pickups (HSS) on at once.

I will be installing a bridge humbucker in what used to have 3 single coils. I will be cutting up a blank pickguard, so I was wondering how do you know if you have to angle the humbucker or leave it parrallel to the mid pickup. The guitar has a floyd locking tremola on it if that helps. thanks

Has anybody ever ordered stuff from MOJO Musical Supply ??? I have used Stew-Mac before but now want to do another rebuild and go with MOJO out of North Carolina. Just want to know if they are reputable...thanks

So, I'm building this guitar that's sort of a tribute to the whole late 60's/early 70's Plymouth Muscle cars. The pickups have got to have balls and yet still look like they belong on the guitar. If you want a pickup with balls then go SD Dimebucker....if you want it with a little vintage and have screamin leads go with SD Pearly gates.

Thanks..I saw those already and what I can't find is a diagram that allows for all pickups to be on at once. I think the S.Duncan diagram "Switch for bridge pickup" is the closest thing......not sure though

I want to be able to have 1 vol, 1 tone and a simple 5 way to be able to switcht: 1. HB only 2. both single coils 3. All pickups together ( this is crucial ) If I end up with a couple more choices that is fine but I have to have the first three selections, not ness. in that order of course. Will I have to use a push-pull for the Volume pot ? The S-Duncan site has a "Switch for bridge pickup" diagram. But it shows a single coil at the bridge and I want to use a Golden Age HB(2 cond/1 ground)...does that matter?? That is the closest diagram I can find to match my needs. Also it is easiest for me to comprehend ( diagram=good / technical schematics=bad) thanks