whoofnagle
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Posts posted by whoofnagle
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Well, I have finally started to apply oil to the body. Here is a shot after about 5 coats of tru-oil.
Bill
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The laser site is great. I have only done two guitars, but I used both the string for the E strings (per Drak's suggestion) and the lasee to double check that my center line was spot on.
Both work well.
Bill
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In reality, their designated customized appointments will outflank, outbank, outshoot, and outrock any dadblurned Jackson/Suhr/Thorn/Youfillintheblankwithyourfavoritewankermakeroutthere.
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Here is a shot of the back
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The LP did it for me. The others were nice - the WOMD was well put together and the workmanship is excellent, but the theme does nothing for me, but it obviously does for a large number of others.
Personally, I hope I can build one some day half as nice as any of these.
Bill
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Well attached is a picture of an old project that I recently started to work on again. Actually, the body had been sitting in the house for about 1 1/2 years after I lost the battle with the router (see shape of the lower horn). However, the other day I decided to see what I could do. I reshaped the horn (it turned out okay). I also changed from a traditional tele plate to a hipshot ( lots of new and old holes). The hipshot covers all holes except a portion of one. I will fill that in later this week. I decided to make the change because I wanted to add 2 x P90s. I am on a huge P90 kick right now. In fact, I do not own a guitar with Humbuckers anymore, but the P90s can cover a ton of ground.
Bill
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Ok I kinda figured it out. I rubbed in some clear grain filler and that REALLY made the figure and color come to life. Than after a few minutes I wiped it all off really good leaving a level smooth beautiful surface ready for finish. Yes I am using the minwax poly. I just now put on my third heavy coat and it's looking sweeeeeeeet.
Can't wait to see pics. Are you spraying the poly or wiping it on?
Bill
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Here are links to what I think are two nicely finished BE tops. They are both done by Ron Thorn. Yes, I know he has the equipment to do it right, but I think they are two examples of how BE can look. I have had a chance to play the second one (the clearnatural top- #70) and visually it is just unreal. It is one of the nicest looking guitars I have ever seen. The sound kicks ass as well.
Bill
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Thanks for all of the suggestions. I have a few test scraps going now. Once i figure out what works best for me I will think about stripping the guitar, but until then I can live with the scratches - I love the way the guitar saounds.
Again thanks for the help,
Bill
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What defines doing it right? It sounds as if you have had some success? Based on several posts above - I feel that I might have been doing it too thick.
You almost can't put it on too thin. I use a 2"x2" square of T-shirt with a cotton ball tied up inside; saturate it with Tru Oil, gently squeeze out the excess, then cover with a thin layer. If you hang the guitar while finishing, you should apply it thin enough that you get no runs whatsoever...not even close. If you have even the slightest run, you're putting it on too thick.
It cures by oxidation, which means the air needs to get to it. If it goes on too thick, or even too many layers too quickly, a skin will build up that prevents air from getting in, and you'll end up with gum.
Do you have a recommended finishing schedule?
Bill
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Remember kids, only a Gibson is good enough...
P.S - Sorry, I'm not bandsawing any of my guitars down the middle to make a point...
That is just sweet looking. Someday, Someday...
Bill
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Here is a link to a pretty funny view of a set neck. It is about the third or fourth post on the link.
The picture is a shot that supposedly was on the Gibson site at some point in time.
Bill
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Actually, tru-oil is a pretty hard-drying (if you do it right) polymerized other-stuff-added business - you can actually build up a gloss film with it if you try. It's not just linseed oil, and having used a few polymerized oil or polymerized oil/phenolic resin varnishes lately, tru-oil does come out differently.
What defines doing it right? It sounds as if you have had some success? Based on several posts above - I feel that I might have been doing it too thick.
Bill
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Thanks for the tips.
UncleJ - I did not take offense. Maybe I did apply it too thick on the top, because it still scuffs with the fingernail test. The reason I would put a few coats of tru-oil back on prior to adding the poly is to make sure the finish looks uniform on the whole body. The back seems to be okay. Yes, I could strip the whole thing and just shoot poly, but that seems like it is a bit much.
Again, I am learning here so that down the road I do not make the same mistake again.
Bill
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you'll want to make sure that you get all of the tru-oil off of the koa. if it's not completely cured now shooting poly over it will keep it from ever curing properly and could cause problems down the road.
I will certainly do the whole guitar once I strip and reapply the tru-oil to the top. I guess my main concern is whether or not poly is a suitable to apply over the oil (based on the few responses - it seems okay). Again, I like the look of the oil, but I would also like a little harder finish.
Bill
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I've not actually done this, but I've read many places that you can scuff sand with 600 and shoot polyurethane over top of Tru Oil.
I've also read that this either does or does not work with nitro.
I just picked up a can of minwax spray poly. I will give it a shot on some scrap wood tomorrow.
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Well it has been a few weeks since I finished my Koa and Ash guitar with tru-oil. I think the look is exactly what I wanted, but man it has not hardened worth a darn on the Koa. It is dry to the touch, but it scratches so easily. I am about to restrip the top and redo the finish. Like others, I used many 50/50 coats cut with Naptha.
Can I spray a coat of something over the oil to better protect the finish?
I am still new to doing finishes.
Thanks,
Bill
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Aiken Tomcat!!
Bill -
Yeah sucks about the ferrules, but I am still learning. I might go back and route out a 1/4" rectangle and insert a piece of spare Koa to cover up my mistake. I have already cut the piece and drilled the holes - a nice straight line
.Here is a link to all of the pics - full size.
Again, thanks for the kind words.
BIll
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Here is a pic, with the neck put on (the body has finished). On the whole I am very please with my effort on this one EXCEPT the poor job on the string ferrules. I thought I had it nailed, but from the second pic - I did not
Oh well, I plan on doing the electronics this weekend.
Bill
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I really like my Fulltone Soul Bender!
Bill
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http://www.thornguitargallery.com/twenty7.htm
That finish somehow is incredible.
I never saw anything like that!!!!
Nice Queen tribute!!
Bill
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Whoofnagle, didn't you buy the Warmoth ash with koa top body in a past few weeks, maybe a month ago? I think there's was a topic about finishing (maybe, I'm not sure, but I'm sure that somebody bought warmoth koa topped body)....
Sorry for the hijack.
mullmuzzler | OSSMT
Nope. Never bought a Warmoth body - but have bought necks.
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Well after putting on my last coat of oil- I looked at it real closely and said the sides are perfect, but the top and bottom could have been better. Thus, out came the green tape (on the sides) and the saw dust went flying on the top and bottom. The first (new) coat is back on. Oh well, live and learn!!
Bill
Old Project
in In Progress and Finished Work
Posted
Here is a pic after wiring and stringing it today. Sounds great.
I stripped a screw for the neck pup - so I will have to do a slight adjustment (lower it and shift it to the left just a hair), but for now I am happy.
Bill