stereordinary

Multnomah Village.

Great. I'll give you a call tomorrow after I've arranged a ride with a truck. Don't let all those boards go before I get me some.

Hey Jim, I'm in Portland myself. Could I arrange to come pick up a board or two?

I went last year. Definitely worth going to, I had a lot of fun. Especially checking out the Luthier Tool Co. booth. Those guys/gals are doing some impressive stuff.

And +1 to David King. A fantastic bass-maker and a gentleman to boot.

I might try to make it again this year, if so, I'll let y'all know.

I would say it's closest to Fender's Daphne Blue.

+1 to that. Wax paper is your friend.

Hey fuzzjunkie! Most grain fillers don't recquire thinning at all. I've not used the Law-Mac stuff myself, but usually you just gob the stuff on there, and rub it into the grain with your fingers, then wait a few minutes and then scrape the surface with an old credit card against the grain.

Also, if you plan on preserving the finish on the back of the neck, score a line with a razor blade along the seam where the neck meets the fingerboard. That way when you wiggle that knife in there to pry the old board off, you don't take big chips out of the finish on the neck with it.

I use my curved-bottom spokeshave first to give the neck a very basic curve. I have it set up to take pretty big ribbons of wood off with each pass, so the neck goes from a block to a cone pretty quick. Next I get the heel and behind the nut with rasps. Then comes the straight-soled spokeshave. This is where the real "shape" of he neck is determined. Then I get out the scraper to really sculpt the heel, behind the nut and make sure I've got no high posts on the bulk of the profile. Shoe-shine it with progressively finer grits, and I'm done.

So I guess that's what the curved-sole spokeshave is for. Imagine yourself spending more time with it on necks that are meant to be thinner.

Ooh, I didn't know that was available to contributing members. Sounds cool, anyone wanna attest to the accuracy of the plans? I mean, I was hoping to contribute one of these days anyway, but if there's perks I might hafta free up the funds quicker.

As a general rule, I'm with Joobsauce on the single-coil in the neck, low-ish output humbucker in the bridge thing. I'm also big on P-90s.

Even more than that, I like actual magnetic pole-pieces a la Fender single-coils, but Strat pickups and the like are all too skinny for me.

Which is why my favorite pickup period is the Fender Jazzmaster pickup.

For electrics I like the Fender Jazzmaster. Vintage especially, they have curvier curves.

Bass, I like Jazz basses, but admittedly I haven't tried to many different basses out.

Acoustic-wise, my one and only Gibson Gospel.

I just adore this idea. Speed Guitar Building. I've been wanting to do something like this myself, but I'd have to have enough time away from my day job. Maybe I'll use some of that vacation time...

Yeah, vinyl is really thick. I would do a reverse weed and use it to make a mask. Then paint the positive space, and remove the vinyl. Very detailed and in paint. Everyone will want to know how you did it.

Never seen those before, but they sure look nice. I imagine they're worth the money if the price is right, but it sure is hard to ell.

I love it!!!

Dude, Astro-Turf on your shop floor?

Nice heel contour on that LP. Very natural and cool looking.

Mmmm... Sexy. I'm not normally into PRS-inspired guitars, but this one I like. A lot. Kudos.

That seems like a great idea for figured woods that are, as you said, to thin to do comfortably on the jointer. Plus, the sandpaper is more benevolent to those woods. Props dude, props.

I love trying out new woods, especially if it's good for necks and fingerboards.

PM'd!

Um... yes. A non-adjustable truss rod can certainly be "made." A piece of square steel bar stock, cut to length, would work fine. Many early Martins had these. StewMac sells a version of them.

You might also consider graphite reinforcement rods. Also sold through StewMac and other luthier supply companies, they are a modern light-weight alternative to the steel bar.

Here's a picture of Fullerplast's knobs:

He sells them for $45/set +$5.85 shipping.

They are genuine Fender NOS witch hat knobs as found on late sixties Jazzmasters.

Yes, they are very expensive, but that's just becasue they're so rare.

I can be the go-between if you'd like. Just PM me your email address.

David Robinson's photo-essay on molding your own plastic pickup covers and other small parts

As for Ebay, yes, they're one in a billion.

Hey dere! I'm new here so I guess I'm pretty late to this thread, but I just wanted to say nice work! It looks fantastic!

Hey Doug, just wnet and checked out your website. Beautiful stuff!