Brian

60 grit and a palm sander (my answer to the amazing duct tape revolution when it comes to refinishing bodies)

Anybody have a small amp I can borrow?

You can score a ton of different materials that would make a great skin!

If your in to doing a material finish

Oh and welcome to the forum

Personally I can't get over how many people actually dip down in a barrel

Here's a picture of the tank I use and it is just barely big enough to handle the body.....

As you can see that tank has done a couple of GMC's for private party's and I use an actual neck that has been cut off for my handle, would you believe it was a Jem DSY at one time and a vine at that!

Your going to want to pick up a good primer/sealer/bonder yes it's an all in one product with a white base to it.

When it comes to the clear you should stay away from lacquer (even thought it works) just because it takes forever to cure. Go with a poly of some sorts, personally I use a water based one that dries fast.

The key to remember on the clear though is to make sure your colors have dried completely before you start with it.

P.S. Almost nothing is taboo here except flaming people and their guitars........

This isn't Shawns site but another one from an artist named Dino Muradian.

Some pretty interesting stuff to see..........

Interesting little diddy on NPR if your into the history of the electric guitar.......

Lately I've been interested in seeing what and how these little overlooked and relatively inexpensive parts really do improve on tone.

So far I've found most people blame a set of pickups and go through the expense of switching them out when if they just changed the cap out on their tone knob they could improve the performance and sound without all of the hassles.

Here is an excerpt from another forum:

1 - ceramic and poly caps - cheap and unusable in a guitar tone circuit- stock in most guitars.

2 - paper/oil either NOS or new - big improvement and upgrade from ceramic and poly caps.(also vintage correct(bumblebees) for those who care) These would be the Spragues, Gudeman, Seque etc..

These can be hard to find, but worth the effort. ( 5 buck and up)

3- foil/oil hi-fi caps - These are the best IMO if you really use your tone knobs alot. Jensen, Hovland Musicaps etc.. aluminum foil or copper foil/oil are the ones. (around 15 bucks each and up)

Anyone care to comment on their own experiance?

1/3rd of the way through the month and Patrick so far has a clean sweep!

Hint, save your acoustic bookmarks for next month's contest people.............

The average "Black back" pick up isn't really all that special it just has electrostatic paint on the base, to kill the signal interference from below.

Sweet Quilt and bookmatched on top of it..........

Drool Drool Drool...............

Yes as a matter of fact I have. I used the veneer I sell and layered it like plywood with the grain runnng different ways. At the time I didn't have a good quality sroll saw so I pretty muched botched the job around the tip pieces (you know where the sharp corners go).

Anyway I know B. Hefner Company makes a fine quality set out of different exotic woods.

And the irony of it all was just as I hit this link it had 77 views and 7 replys...........well no more

Well the only solution I can see in order to make sure you get the screw holes drilled through the guard correctly is to mark them on a piece of clear Lexan that is laying on top of the body.

You can get 8x10 sheets of Lexan at Lowe's for under $3

Then lay the old guard directly over the Lexan aligning it to the body and draw out the other features.

Cut it out using a 45 degree router bit around the outside if your going traditional or you can get away with using a scroll table top saw. Be sure to use a lower speed setting since the plastic will melt. If you use the table saw method you can always smooth out the edge's by first sanding them with 320 then 600 and a quick flame polish using a blow torch.

Beware of the torch method you only need to kiss the edge's with the edge of the flame and then only quickly............

If you need regular pick guard material check out this page and let me know what you want, I'll cut you a deal

Looks sweet Tubarão , I see you finally got an MC finished off as well

Project Guitar is primarily a solid body electric guitar build and modify site.

Do you think it should have a section dedicated to acoustic guitars?

Well these three will work bro

http://www.guitar.com/

http://www.allenguitar.com/

http://pweb.jps.net/~kmatsu/

Most of the others are either already listed or I couldn't find a place for them in a primary hardbody site.........

Keep them coming folks! and please remember

1. It must be a site that is either useful in the modification, building or repairing of guitars and you should post where you think the site should go in the Project Guitar website.

Plus the other rules of course

I've had great success with both using a plain ordinary sanding sealer and also none at all..........

I seriously wouldn't worry about buying some expensive stuff..

That's gonna look nice

Check your material for stretch ability, in other words pull from opposite corners to see if the weave will have some elastic stretch to it. If it does then the back around the neck joint and handle should be a breeze........

On Material jobs it is nothing for me to do 18 coats on average

Your doing it just fine for a once in awhile use, otherwise you can get gauges from Luthiers Mercatile or Stew Mac that look like this:

Thats definately the way to go

Yes on the wood but if your wanting sustain that last's I would say go with a hard tail verse's a traditional vintage trem.