Brian

Excellent base for your Jem transformation since the 570 is rear routed as far as the electronic cavity goes!

The square neck joint is an original neck joint to most around here as opposed to an AANJ (all access neck joint).

The only other things I can think of are time and patience, sounds like your well on your way.

Just so you know to the best of my memory there are only 6 homemade Jems with material tops in the world so your's should be "Lucky #7".

Oh and welcome to the forum feel free to ask anything and remember even the simple questions may have solutions that you haven't thought of........

Interesting thread from over at the Jackson forum

Looks like Fender has offically purchased Jackson and the Charvel line as well, but they don't plan on making to many changes yet.

I received this message in my e-mail today!

I can do a tutorial on inlaying a vine onto a fingerboard.  I've got pictures starting from selecting material to drawing a pattern and laying out the pattern on the fingerboard. I can also include a full scale printable drawing of the vine so people can simply print it out and cut away!

So it looks like we may have a full blown inlay tutorial with download coming soon as well!

Of course there will be a new "Web site of the month" and if anyone has been tooling through the forum they already know who's will be featured.

The "Guitar of the month" has yet to be announced

Tutorials in the works are as follows:

"Scalloping" the full length of your fret board

"Set-ups" a six part series with an introduction dealing with the essentials, showing you the step by step through a professional guitar set up.

Tutorials planned but not in the works yet (by myself anyway):

Pick guards a two part tutorial dealing with different ways to make them.

Swirl paint jobs-possible entry coming in from a friend of Project Guitar.

Rewards for support program: :o

A new program offering rewards for people who help Project Guitar.com to remain up and running.

Other than that more searches on the web for important new information that helps us all in the quest for making or customizing our own guitars. So bring a friend next time you drop by the forum, maybe he or she will have something to contribute helping us all learn!

While personally I'm using a trim router I would highly recommend a plung router for guitar work if you plan on making bodys from scratch.

Actually there is a tutorial in the works (by somebody else) and also a second one planned (by myself).

When it comes to the actual color to be applied to the body there are several options available in reality. First thing your going to have to do though is take a walk down oil based lane.

You can use either a dye, ink or paint but it must be oil based and not because they float but that is an added benifit on some deliverys to the object you are painting. The reason you need to stick with oil based products is simply because they don't blend well with each other when wet unless you force them to.

If you try working with two colors that are water based your going to end up with a blend by the time it dry's that doesn't have any true edges, hence a single color fade that looks more like an airbrushed paint job.

You have two options or a combination of both. You can use springs to hold up the pup's which fit around the actual mounting screws or you can make little blocks of wood to act as spacers which can be glued into the center of the pickup cavitys.

Personally I wouldn't fill I would just add the little blocks to hold them up higher and place a piece of foam inbetween the block and pup so you can still adjust the pickup's height without having to deal with the springs.

You know I do

Most to least according to the tone tech data in the DiMarzio Catalog:

DP 702 Blaze Bridge Model at 7.5

DP 703 Blaze Custom Model at 7.0

Tie- DP 704 Evolution and DP 700 Blaze Neck at 6.5***

DP 701 Blaze Single Middle at 4.5

***The Evolution has 14.23k DC Resistance where as the Blaze Neck has 15.80k

Hope this helps you

Well this certainly looks different as far as an inexpensive alternative to the Buzz Fenton system........

Wonder when they'll come out with the locking nut one, they say soon.......

I get asked several times a year where to get logo's for refinishing projects.

If your living in or near a metro area that has a lot of advertising business, look up sign shops in the Yellow pages. What your specifically looking for is any sign shop that cuts vinyl for either window stickers or automobile advertisements.

If they are worth their weight in the business they already have a disc with just about every logo you would ever want and it is licensed by the manufacturer's.

People are under the impression that these are some sort of taboo things to get and Kinko's people have the technical capability but they are scared to use it.

Truth is as long as your not using the labels to market your own production model of guitar, the original company's could care less. Think they are going to spend $250 an hour on an attorney to spend even more money filing against somebody that wanted something that put's their name out as free advertisement to begin with?

Especially if your only buying one or two to begin with. That would be silly........

Other company's such as Fender have had a long history with problems , especially since they use outside vendors to produce their water slide style decals. Over the years they have changed styles so many time's it is impossible to say what is original and what isn't. They will go after people marketing the decals in mass quantity's just for profit don't get me wrong but if your just making one to refinish your guitar they could care less as well.

Any 60 grit will do

As far as the chemicals go when it comes to those poly finishes on Ibanez's the only thing I found that will cut them is made for stripping airliners and should be handled with really thick rubber gloves and a very good mask

You will probably need to help yourself by pre-drilling the holes but be VERY careful since you don't have much depth in the wood to work with.

Other than that no problem and I would skip filling unless you think it is absolutly necessary.........

Best bet there would be to take a small piece and experiment on it with a scrap piece of wood to see the results.

It is for me, I don't know about other people though......

Another new tutorial is up and running on the site.

That's two I've done in 24 hours

Yuppers should be green although I havent got a clue how you'll get it to lay down and stay unless of course you use a thin coat of sanding sealer or paint to hold it on.

Don't sweat the veneer going on, just be sure to use plenty of glue and if by chance you end up with a spot that doesn't want to stay down grab a piece of aluminum foil and lay it over that spot. Grab the girlfriends, wife's or mothers iron and tack it back down using a medium setting and the foil to protect both the iron and the veneer.

Thats the beauty about heat and glue, you can use it to loosen dried glue so it will either adhere again or let go if you need to peel something off.

Oh oh ohhhhhh what do you have planned for the 335?

I've been checking out this site for awhile now

Hit the home link, then search link. When you get to that page under the "General Properties" section scroll down to either Quilted or what ever and enjoy

Lot's of treasures to be found going through their wood pile and good price's to boot!

Been there done that

Hope that helps

Actually to get the edges painted correctly , you will still need to lightly sand the side's so the paint has something to grab on to since the factory finish is to smooth. Easy thing about it is though you'll end up automatically doing that sanding when you go to smooth out the veneer

Hi Brad and welcome aboard

Tell the wife it's because you were denied shoes as a child , she might get it

No problem.......

Take a ton of elbow grease to get that high end shine back..........