Brian

Thanks Jeremy, I actually have a full bag of moon charms I purchased off of Ebay at a real bargin so I have all of the MOP moons I'll ever need providing of course people don't mind the inlays being just a little larger than normal. The good thing about them though is they are big enough to cover over old dot inlays.

A bit late for a reply but the Loctite for wood actually will strengthen the wood where you have to fill it and it's made for simple jobs like this...

Home Depot can order those in, check out this page for the part numbers, it is for the engraving cutter bits..........

You can also use masking tape and wind it around your turbo carver bits if you get into a pinch and want to use them on your Dremel, but that carver is awesome for fine detail work..........

Welcome aboard Mike!

I stumbled upon his site over at the Fender forum and though it would be just the perfect candidate for Website of the month for November so now everyone else can see it before it's on the home page

Sweet price and info

and welcome to the forum

Actuually I can do it with real silver problem is it will tarnish unless coated

I use dental silver with an amalgomator I got really cheap off of Ebay a few years back.

The process still isn't cheap though..........

Ran across this interesting article just surfing around...........

I've been right where your at and the only solution I came up with involved a bit of work.

First Glue the material down across the rest of the back as you normally would but don't try to glue it down on the AANJ area all the way (thin glue in this area).

After the rest of the material has cured on the body (about 1 hour) gently lift the neck area and add more glue then pull it down around the ball of the body so to speak. Yes it is going to ridge up on you and here's the trick.

Everywhere it peaks ^^^^^^ around the end slice it at the tip of the peak using (a fresh blade) your exacto knife. Hold the strips down and yes they will overlap towards the end.

Give this about 20 minutes to start hardening then cut a slice right across where the overlap line is of the material.......

Let your glue dry completely then get yourself can of sanding sealer (liquid not spray) and gob it on using a paint brush all around this area and let dry.......(you might end up coating this area several times)

Sand it smooth carefully so you don't lift the edge's of the material. If an edge lift's up stop and hit it with the sanding sealer again to tack and hold it down.

It's a pain in the (obligatory statement edited for content) to do but eventually your going to have it shaped and enough material so that when you do the burst it will not only hide the edge's but also look smooth as silk right up to the top of the body.

For a long time I have spent many an hour wet sanding to say the least. It is just about the most tedious part of finishing.

I recently visited another forum where a luthier was talking about using acetone instead of water for this part of the finish. While I can see both the pro's and con's associated with using a highly flammable liquid as a cutting agent I'm just wondering if anybody else use's this method on a regular basis?

For now I'll try to find the post and also invite him in here to give us a heads up on it. I do know it is a practice that goes on in the automotive finishing industry from time to time but I would like to learn more about it.......

.005 thick

What 2 fine coats of clear, a slight buff to knock off the buildup on top and a third to level the top and your done.........

Sounds cool, I haven't tried it but I would be interested in finding out how easy it is to cut and shape.

3/4" for the neck and bridge.

And welcome to the forum

Might want to try the vendors on this page, just scroll down to inlay supplies.

Actually upon reading further about it, alternate tunings are possible with the new setup..........

Hummmmmmmmmmm could happen

Look around in here when you get the chance..........

Working on this one on the side..........

It will get a sparkely blue finish on the sides and back..........

Has a pretty cool 3D look to it upclose as well

What would you like to see more of on the Project Guitar website?

Please feel free to post comments or why you voted what you did as well.............

Hence the lesson, heat with soldering gun tip and slide out

I have not used JW but I do owe someone an answer on that very same type of operation. There's a guy here in Titusville that powder coats anything metal, to any color.

I need to drop by and get him to give me a price quote to see what kind of range he comes up with on trems and tuners, lock nuts etc..........

I'll post it here when I find out.

Man oh man haven't seen you around in age's.....................

How have you been doing?

Nice to see an axe with a history like that as well to bad it isn't Kirk's old LNG we could hold it for ransom

:o That is one very impressive guitar! I also think it's great you took pictures all along the way so we could see it in the different stages, thanks

wOOt

Usually for something such as a light scratch I take a piece of 2000 wet/dry sand paper using it wet of course and lightly feather buff the scratched area. Then you will end up with a dull streak which needs to be buffed out using swirl remover buffing compound.

If it is deeper than a very light scratch start with 1200 grit then work your way down to the 2000.

NAPA sells the 1200 grit Part# RF-720 and 2000 grit Part# RF-700 for .69 cents a sheet and it has the best backing I have ever found.

There really isn't a need to sand to much here just go lightly using a glass of water with a drop or two of liquid dishwashing detergent mixed in for your wetting agent on the paper.

Towel dry as you move along with a gentle clean cloth. Buff out with swirl remover if you can find it since most of the commercial polishing compounds in fine grit are mainly used for stage three of buffing if you started with 6-800 wet/dry to begin with.

Check this out!

Might be a candidate for a fret board swap out if anyone wants a custom look at a very inexpensive price, course you would need to both slot it and fret it to make it work.

Might want to email jwcustom@hotmail.com he makes and sells these things direct along with doing powder coating. He should have a lot of feedback on the subject.

He's also known as JW Custom on the supply page down in the pick guard section.

Redmond, WA - July 16, 2002

Floyd Rose strikes manufacturing deal with Schaller Electronics Inc., Germany to produce the new SpeedLoader Series bridges.

Redmond, WA - July 12, 2002

Floyd Rose announces that Dean Markley Strings, Inc. has acquired domestic and international distribution rights of Floyd Rose SpeedLoader Strings.

Yeah Kev, unless there is a way to either quick change positions on the nut or saddles alternative tunings would be a pain in the butt..........