Brian

That's kind of like asking why does one car dealer sell model Jem-a and another model Jem-b, they look the same but there is so much difference in the price, well perhaps one is a reseller and another manufactured it. When it comes to manufacturing there can be differences in cost as well depending on the machinery used and the quality of the wood which will add or take away from the cost as well.

Your best bet is to ask yourself if your going to swirl it then what kind of wood do I want under the paint because the originals were mainly Basswood from what I understand but some have surfaced with other woods hiding under there.

And if you do decide to exchange it send them direct to DiMarzio you'll get them back muck quicker and actually thats the way they want it handled if you read the paperwork that came in each box.

Just showed up, anyway yes go ahead and clear it or add sanding sealer or what ever it takes to smooth out the surface so the materials texture doesn't interfer with the logo looking sharp and flat, then do the clear over that. Sounds like a lot of trouble and buildup on the headstock but it really isn't that much once you sand everything down to make it flat.

Welcome to the forum daniboy

Dowel would be the way to go unless your willing and wanting to go with a new top overlay on the project but that body wood looks sweet

I wouldn't see why not I've used both and they are simular in the hook ups.... The one in the diagram is an Import generic vs the YM-50 which is built tougher or rather looks more solid when holding one in your hand.

I just got floored when I tried to send a pair of golf clubs to New Zealand, the post wouldn't accept the package because it was over 42 inches long, go figure...........

I just call them mini's and there really cheap in price

Two options off the top of my head, first is to mask off each individual fret and spray a clearcoat on the entire neck and the second is more like what the lower end factory jobs do and just clear coat it completely.

I have had to clean up so many frets because of over spray on the lower end production guitars it's not funny.

Course there is a third option and thats finish the clearing before you fret it but your always going to end up going through the clear when you dress the fret ends.

It was a landslide folks! Congrad's daveq!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thats a tough one but I thought it was a take off in almost 3/4 scale of a Jackson RR wasn't it?

If you can you may want to concider routing out the part of the body the end of the post poked through and gluing a piece of hardwood in there to replace it, then drill the hole back down to proper depth for the post anchor.....

As long as you give it plenty of dry time you shouldn't have a problem, usually just 3-4 days tops........unless you go thick with it then I would wait a week.

Ozium bro........

Secondly please watch your language..........

I have seen plenty of valid legal guitars go for unheard of low prices from people that just needed the money in bad times but seriously why would you purchase something thinking it was stolen in the first place?

Actually thats it as simple as it can be explained

Might want to shave the bridge bone while your at it if it is to high.....

Welcome to the forum JoJo

That is the Happy end to a year! Congrad's

Wouldn't be a contest with just one entry now would it?

Seriously if there were a couple to vote on I'd be more then happy to give the winner some exposure along side the regular GOTM entry's for January on the home page, there is no rule saying there can't be more then one, and it would qualify but the deadline is quickly approaching for the vote off.

Sweet, nice and clean I like it

It's standard flourscent vinyl from any sign shop and it stays right in place since it has an adhesive backing.........

If you find it let me know I've been looking for years.........

Welcome to the forum

Truely at least post it in the right section you know where everyone else sells stuff......