aidlook

GMF carries rosewood fretboards. But their prices are never humane. Where are you getting the hardware? if you're thinking of placing an order from StewMac's just order the fretboard from them as well. Every time i've ordered from them I've received my goods in less than 3 days. I could also recommend guitarfetish for hardware, since they're cheap and fast (och jag har aldrig åkt på tull med dom).'

Oh and Swedish Luthier would you perhaps be intrested in purchasing some wood for me if you're going to Holm's. I'm thinking of placing an order but would like someone to handpick a couple of good pieces.

Hi Erik

I spent 12 years in jönköping, however that was before I started building guitars. I know of a wholesaler here in Gothenburg where I've purchased some nice ash that has turned into guitar bodies. I've found out from a guy at school (seriously good wood-turner) of a company in västerås called Bröderna Holms that has a wide range of woods.

yeha i would do it out side for sure

i think there some way out using static currents or somthing to help as well .......not 100% sure though year 10 science is as far as it went for my in affraid

That would be by putting opposite currents through the paint and the body of the guitar IF it was metal. It would work if you gave the paint a negative charge as it came out of the can causing each drop of paint to repel the other spreading out more. But it would also require the guitar to be made of metal to attract the paint, and have a positive charge. I think I'm right?

What about a layer of conductive paint applied before the colour layer?

Fortunately, the type of people impressed by this clown generally dont have the ability to access $1000.

...making the ability to cough up £1000 even less likely

I started in a basement with little space, with no knowledge, no internet, no computer(both not invented yet),

Man! you must be old....The first computers where around in the 30's/40's.

I've powdercoated a tele bridgeplate, string trees, control plate, and tuners....All white, it's definately doable, the cost might be the issue though.

I don't think you're getting the point here...

The measurements you want are not critical in any way.

If you read up on the subject a bit you will realise what ihocky is really trying to say.

The measurement from the nut to the end of the fretboard doesn't matter if it's off by 1,2,3 or 5 mm

The measurement from the nut to the last fret is way more critical.

Same with the measurement between the end of the fretboard and the bridge, this doesn't really matter.

The thing that does matter however is the distance from the nut to the saddles.

Alles klar

. Brian may have them in his inventory also. Just make sure they're described as such in a catalog. I believe they're the 510 or 512 series. They are expesive, though.

OK: Brian has them!:

http://www.universaljems.com/cart/tuner3x3lock.htm

At first I read that as Brian May have them in his inventory....

Brian May changed the tuners on his original Red Special to the schaller locking tuners, and that ought to tell you something.

I have a set myself and I can say nothing but positive stuff about them, top quality stuff.

or make an air tight platic layer inbetween and fill it with water???

too extreme??

Sound travels even faster through water than air...

And if it's air-tight, the best thing to do would be to suck out all the air inside, leaving a vacuum

Full front

body

Well... here's my first GOTM entry

Specs:

Woods:

Ash Body finished in nitro.

Flatsawn maple neck, scarfjointed headstock at 14 degrees.

25,5" scale Ebony fretboard

Hardware:

Licensed Floyd Rose tremolo

Wilkinson EZ-lock tuners

beveled plastic knobs

Hot rod truss rod

Electronics:

Neck: Gfs Lil killer

Bridge: PAF style humbucker

Two push/pull knobs for splitting coils, and selecting north/south coil.

3-way selector switch neck/both/brigde

Missing cavity covers in the pics...

what happened at the bottom right half of the drumshell?

Hi all,

I've been lurking the forum for a while and decided it was time for me to build my own guitar. I don't want to reveal anything yet but I'll post some pictures when it's finished.

Cheers.

But then we're missing out on the fun part....

Instead of the 400$ refret you could probably get a new neck, like a warmoth, for roughly the same price.

For Fender plans I found this link very useful

http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdfs/

There are layout diagrams like this of pretty much every Fender guitar.

They are all vector based and can be scaled to full-size without loosing quality. It's all in layers as well, so with a program like adobe illustrator all the arrows and such can be removed

www.buildyourownclone.com

Of course, im biased, because im the aussie distributor

I suggest people start off with a full kit, get some practice and learn some tricks, then start building from their own sourced materials.

The BYOC overdrive/screamer has so many extra parts for different versions of gainy type pedals, its not funny.

Is the screamer back in stock now?

anyone in sydney?......no??

anyway good /weird story

did anyone see the build on the buildyourguitar site were they guy was from darwin and he made his own cases

well once i was at darwin air port and i saw one of these cases sitting on a trolley(obviously the guy)

so i waited round but he never came then my plane did

so..........thats the closes ive ever come.........and he wasn't even from PG

people need to come to sydney

I've been to sydney 3 or 4 times

I am curious as to whether or not a hollowbody style tailpiece would work with a roller TOM bridge?

I want to make sure it will be ok since I have the roller bridge already and would rather use it than buying another one!

Wich one of the tune-o-matics do you have?

It would definately work with the schaller since it's got adjustable string spacing.

gah! what about dunlop jazz II's?!

+1

Looks nice so far...like Greg I already like the vibe with the pickguard and choice of knobs.

But that sure is a stratty-looking headstock on there...

I can't really take credit for the choice of pickguard or knobs, since that's just the way the deluxes looked like.

The GFS split humbuckers are "standard" humbucker-size, and therefore somewhat smaller than the original Fender ones...

Lovely guitar Aidlook, as usual

What did you use to route the binding channel?

I used a straight bit with a bearing (on the bottom), and just changed the bearing to a smaller size. Luckily a smaller bearing from one of my other bits was just the rigt size.

Ok.

So I've been building this guitar for the past couple of weeks while putting a finish on the second build.

Specs:

Maple Neck

Maple Fretboard

Medium/Medium fretwire

GraphTech nut

Ash body

Wilkinson Kluson-style tuners

Vintage style tremolo

GFS Split Humbuckers

It's bound in white both front and back and will be finished in black nitro.

started finishing...

Grainfiller tinted dark brown, finished with Nitro.

Still have a lot of clear+sanding to do to get it nice and even though

Slash

John Frusciante

Brian May

...no particular order

Drill out the excess with a forstner, and then clean up and finish the routing with a single pass. That's more than 1/8" in depth, but if you do it right, a lot less in width. Alternately, which is my preferred approach, use the StewMac template to make a plywood template (1/2" or better stock, I usually use 3/4"), which you won't be able to burn through. Sure, it's not as fancy (and seethrough) but with good centrellines, transparency is a luxury you don't really need, per se.

I use the stewmac as a maste template to make templates out of MDF or Plywood as well(learned not to use the plexi one the hard way...).

But a tip is to use the transparent template to mark out the positions of the routs, and then use the wooden ones for the actual routing