aidlook

Here are two new effects pedals I made recently

THE FÜZZ

based on a rather famous Fuzz pedal with lots of controls.

Uses high gain germanium transistors...this thing gets wild.

Here's the second one.

Gonna try to record some samples eventually.

test piece?

Warmoth supplies heaps of woods on those fretboards...have a closer look

well, first of all, you wont be able to get that color/ look unless you have a figured maple cap on the body. and its not paint, its stained and then clear coated. if you wanted that flamed maple body, then why would you want to paint it? that would waste the great looking maple.

Bursts are a waste of flamed maple?

On other notes:

+1 to one entry per month.

+1 to having a build thread before entering. This one should be more of a 'rule of thumb' than anything else meant to deter non-contributors from entering. By example, I wouldn't complain about Perry's entry despite not having a thread beforehand because he contributes regularly.

+1 to a time limit after winning.

+1 to limiting the number or frequency of pro entries. The pros have a significant advantage over the amateurs in equipment, time, experience, etc. I have the sneaking suspicion that pros get a certain number of 'respect votes' as well.

The naming requirement seems a bit hokey. That one could be dropped or modified.

I'd say the full video diary of Perry's build would substitute a build thread.

I'm also sceptical of the time limit, seems (as previously stated) that you're actually punishing an achievement. The rule could of course apply to pro builders to limit their entry frequency. But I don't really think there has been any problems with too many pro builders constantly winning month after month. If there where a rule about contributing a build thread (or link to a picture- or video diary) why limit the amount of info and guitar porn from pro's? As many people have said before it's pretty self-regulating and I haven't really noticed any major problems, but a rule about having pictures and info of the actual build would hopefully increase the amount of information on this site.

It's pretty basic isn't it? horn driver into a tube and then stick it in your mouth?

After that you'd need a PA or something right? too bad I'm lacking one of those at home...

Shure, extra info never hurst.

Nice work on ageing the fretboard on the frankenstrat! But don't you think the headstock and back of the neck needs some treatment as well? Looks waay to new

get all components in there first and cut all wires to the right length. If you wanna be really serious you could bundle wires together with heatshrink or tape.

Dont get a cheap Floyd. The good ones have enough trouble. A cheap floyd copy will not sit right, will not intunate, and will get chewed up on the posts. I know cause I've been there. I got a Jackson one, which is pretty good. It was only like 70-80 bucks, and its fairly good quality. Hard steel, heavy duty screws.

Care to elaborate as to how it would not intonate?

I think the build-thread idea is a great one, and would also take care of the no-post pro's and the people who don't build/mod themselves.

It would also hopefully make people contribute more to the site.

One per month seems to be a good limit, and an easy rule to follow and enforce.

Nickname rule could be changed to a reccomendation instead.

Hope this pic helps.

do u guys use those tuners? i got the same ones for my tele build, so i'm wondering if you are satisfied wth them.

I've used them and where very satisfied with them. Quality felt very nice and they're real easy to string imo.

I am usually very sceptic as fast as someone uses the expression "enhances tone".

Thanks for all the nice comments. The "buildup" in the picture is probably an optical illusion, nevertheless the heel will be sanded flat before sending. I will do the sides in aluminium as well, once the body is finished. I'm away at the moment and when I get back I'll only have a couple of days before I go away again. I'm going to America in april and I'm thinking of picking up some nice wood on my trip to use for the body. Anyone have any reccomendations on suppliers in LA, or Hawaii? I will also go to Canada but I want to avoid the hassle of bringing wood through customs in the US (don't know how picky they are).

That is not my private shop (I wish I could afford that kind of equipment) but a shop at school. It's got everything I need for both metal and woodworking, and I'm pretty much the only guy using the woodworking section regularily, so I'm happy (doesn't cost me either and I can use it after 5pm on weekdays and all day on weekends and holidays ).

some ppl think this is 'pore filling' with oil and dust but its not, since when the excess is wiped so is anything in the pores; however the more finer sanding makes the pores smaller and less visible on the suface

Pores are essentially holes, how can you make holes smaller without filling them with something? According to your theory it seems you could sand the pores out of a sponge with really fine paper, and we both know that's not gonna work unless you fill the pores with something.

have been working on some other stuff lately, but started with the guitar again today. Startet to put a finish on the neck and made the back aluminium plate.

side of neck

front and back

How's that birch sounding? I'm thinking of using birch for my current build.

I make a template first and use a template-following bit to rout the pickguard out, then use the same template to bevel the pickguard with a 45 degree router bit. After that I just scrape any uneven parts.

I'd just get it unfinished then and commision the complete finish.

For strength of joint, one would assume a neck plate would be strongest, because all 4 screws are tightened to a plate that pushes down evenly over the whole area between the screws, thus pushing down a larger area than just individual string sockets. Though I may be wrong

Not really, what pulls the neck towards the body is the tension of the screws. If you tighten the screws as much on both types of joints the neck will be held down exactly as hard. The only difference it makes is the pressure applied to the wood on the back of the heel, with slight differences due to the different areas.

+1 There's a company that sells their stuff in Sweden, although ridicolously expensive, and I doubt that they can compete with the 1½ day shipping I usually get from StewMac.

What city did you live in?

looking around the project section on this sight I have seen bearly any original designs.

..take a closer look

there's not really a reason not to to it, unless maybe the neck is already finished and the difference is small, but 1mm is quite a lot.

Noiseless single-coil pups:

Bill Lawrence designed the noiseless pups that Fender uses and everyone else copied. If this is the route you take, go for the original, not an imitation. For a tele, you can get a brand new set for just under $100 shipped.

Also, you'd be hard pressed to find anyone say anything bad about Bill's pups. That says a lot right there.

Just because someone was first to come up with something doesn't make the others' inferior. Competition and different takes on ideas usually promotes progress and the first product based on a new idea is rarely going to be the best ever made.