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supplebanana

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Posts posted by supplebanana

  2. Finish Sinking Into Pores.

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    That explains a lot. I forgot that it is an acid catalyst.

    caustic is applied to alkalines not acids (as in Caustic Soda - Sodium Hydroxide NaOH)

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corrosive

    Terms

    The word 'corrosion' is derived from the Latin verb corrodere which means 'to gnaw' indicating how these substances seem to 'gnaw' their way through the flesh. Sometimes the word 'caustic' is used as a synonym, but by convention 'caustic' generally refers only to strong bases, particularly alkalis, and not to acids, oxidizers, or other non-alkaline corrosives. The term 'acid' is often used imprecisely for all corrosives

    :D

  3. Which Is Heavier?

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Alder is just as easy to work as poplar

    Can't get clear 4/4 alder around here much less 8/4, so I haven't had the opportunity to work with it yet. B)

    ... I thought African mahogany was lighter than the South American species...makes me wonder!

    Maybe two of the guitars I have made are actually Brazillian, not Sapelle (African)

    Sapele is NOT African mahogany. They have a similar appearance, but they're not the same wood. That being said, sapele is GREAT to work with and has a LOT of bottom end to it.

    best read these pages....

    http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpic...,%20genuine.htm

    http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpic...,%20african.htm

    http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/sapele.htm

    http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpic...,%20african.htm

    http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/sipo.htm

    http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/kosipo.htm

    http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpic...,%20spanish.htm

    http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/andiroba.htm

    this is before you bring in things that are SOLD as mahogany such as Meranti (Red Luan) etc...... :D:D

    Confused ??? you will be.....

  7. Double Cut/ Prs Style Guitar

    in In Progress and Finished Work

    Posted

    Neck carved, Fretboard radiused, sanded to 2k grit. Next is to fret, then I'll rout neck pocket, and finish the heel. I am goign to measure my fret slots 34384 times, to make SURE that they are the EXACT right size. Im tired of these fretting problems ive been having.

    might be a good idea if you check the width at the nut too....just in case - I mean only an idiot would forget to do that, right? :D:D ...lol....

    B) jus' yankin' yer chain!!

    p.s. good to see a bit more colour in yer grass too!!!

  9. Pointy Stick

    in In Progress and Finished Work

    Posted

    You know I used to be a huge fan of DiMarzio pickups, well I still am, but if you haven't tried Woo Sung Chorus (WSC) pick ups, do yourself a favour and give them a go, they sound just as good as DMs. I put this link to vid of me tapping on a Woo Sung Chorus fitted guitar on the Misc thread, I'll put here too

    Hang loose B)

    any idea where i can buy some of these pickups in quantities of less than 20? i can't find anywhere that stocks 'em (especially in the UK)

    I've tried these pickups (PAF's @8K) & they're the best sounding PU's I've heard. grunt with articulation, sensitivity with balls, only way i can describe them.

    cheap as f*ck too.... if you can find 'em

    Yep, they are at the head of the pack on tone, and while they are new they have to keep their price a bargain, I got put onto them by the dude at an Aussie shop called Stairway to Kevin, they had a big range but sadly I think that shop has gone out of business. You can try MelMusic http://www.melmusic.com.au/shop/index.php?categoryID=716 they have some in stock and may be able to ship to you and get other models.

    thanks muzz - looks like the webby is down at the moment...... hang on I'll have a look to see if I can see any thru the window.... :D

    nevermind i'll try again later - back to listening to....

    tail.jpg:DB)

    keep up the good work!!!

  10. Pointy Stick

    in In Progress and Finished Work

    Posted

    You know I used to be a huge fan of DiMarzio pickups, well I still am, but if you haven't tried Woo Sung Chorus (WSC) pick ups, do yourself a favour and give them a go, they sound just as good as DMs. I put this link to vid of me tapping on a Woo Sung Chorus fitted guitar on the Misc thread, I'll put here too

    Hang loose :D

    any idea where i can buy some of these pickups in quantities of less than 20? i can't find anywhere that stocks 'em (especially in the UK)

    I've tried these pickups (PAF's @8K) & they're the best sounding PU's I've heard. grunt with articulation, sensitivity with balls, only way i can describe them.

    cheap as f*ck too.... if you can find 'em

  11. Measuring The Guitar Scale Question

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    I know that the distance from the nut to the 12th fret should equal the distance between the bridge and the 12th fret… so if there was a guitar with a 25” scale, it would be 12.5 inches between the nut and 12th, and 12.5 inches between the bridge and 12th… that I understand, but where on the bridge and nut do you measure from… the blue or the yellow line?

    neckandbridgearea.png

    lol - did nobody else notice he used a picture of a compensated nut? :D

  12. Truss Rod Help

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    Actually single action compression rods come in two flavors, with a curved fillet above and without. I personally use a straight SAC rod because I don't 'believe' that a truss rod works by bending as so many people do. My trussrods work because the backside of the neck can be compressed easier than the top and the rod is set low in the channel close to the back. Straight SAC rods only balance the pull of the strings, but don't attempt to bend the neck in the opposite direction of the string pull. The outcome is a much more lively neck with better sustain and less dead spots.

    not true - single action rods mean that you can force the neck in one direction only whether the rod is bent or not. the straight single rods, by their design are meant to bend, the curved rods work because they are bent to start with in the direction of the string pull & when you tighten the rod it tries to straighten pulling the neck with it, the straight rods start off straight & then when you tighten them they pull against a metal bar causing the rod to bend pushing the neck back.

    double action rods are capable of forcing the neck in either direction to compensate for backbow when fretting etc. this works by setting the rod (during anufacture) with the neutral position (ie - no bend) in the middle of the screw thread, offering the ability to bend the rod in either direction.

    oh & single action rods come in more than 2 flavours, curved with fillet, rod & bar & u-channel (or should that be n-channel because of the direction of fitting?)

    personally (many will disagree tho') I believe that the single curved rod to be outdated & may cause problems later in the guitars life due to the fibres in the timber compressing (a problem with old Gibsons) & requires the nut removing & modified washers fitting before replacing the nut.

  14. Improvised Spraying

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    They charge the paint to one polarity,and they charge the guitars to another...then they spray,and the magnetism holds the paint on and keeps it from running at the thickness they use.

    I thought they could only do that for powder-coating metal. I didn't think the wood would hold a charge, its a cool concept though.

    wood will hold charge. it's mostly carbon & water (as are we) & both are capable of holding charge - albeit not as much as other substances - even air will hold charge. remember that charge is static - they basically connect the guitar up to the antenna of an ioniser & connect the gun up to the other pole. the charged particles will try to attract to each other thus neutralising the charge.

    but yes it's a similar process to the powder coating except the powder coat is then heated to reflow it.

  15. Improvised Spraying

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    If your looking to do sunburst, i have done so with an airbrush in the past. If you have a small compressor, airbrushes are really cheap. If you do not have one, i found these items on amazon... Depending on what your willing to spend to get decent finishes. I have not used these particular systems nor have i even seen them.. But i just did a quick search, and the reviews seem decent, and figured id share it with you.

    http://www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose-Siphon...5289&sr=8-1

    http://www.amazon.com/PAASCHE-AIRBRUSH-Qui...5289&sr=8-5

    Like 'spoke says - an airbrush is fine for s/bursts & stains but i wouldn't try using it for clearcoating. plus these compressors run constantly - thats why they make them "quiet" - but the other side of the coin is they get VERY hot after a while.

    another option is large gas bottles such as used for Scuba etc. or like bars use for CO2, you don't need compressed air to spray - i know guys who use this method but use either CO2 or N2. When I used to go diving i'd get my bottle (17ltr) filled to 300bar for ~£2 - and the air was cleaned & dried (for those that want to work it out to PSi = 300x15=4500psi !!!)

  18. Real Bad Back Bow..

    in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat

    Posted

    2 things spring to mind - (i know its too late now coz you've already pulled the board - but for future ref.)

    1) will the neck not pull straight under string tension? &

    2) if not - what about using Dan Erlewine's method for straightening a back bowed neck?

    The video I saw of him doing this was on a guitar that had a back bow just as bad as that & he got it straight.

    also - when I clamp a f/b i start in the middle & work to the ends coz if you start by clamping each end 1st you can introduce a bow as you clamp the rest (kind o'like a bi-metal strip action)

    :D

    sb

  23. Help: Grey Flame Maple Top Finish And What Inlays To Use

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    the best advice I can give is for a first build don't expect to build a "saleable" guitar - but if you do manage it congrats & well done. having access to the tools & somewhere to work is half the battle (I made my 1st guitar (fixed next SG) with minimal woodworking or power tools (electric drill). I was happy with the result for a 1st attempt but have since stripped the finish & fretboard off & plan on redoing them (when I get the time!!!!)

    The only other advice is to find out as much about guitars & guitar construction as possible (here is about as good a place as any as you access to everyones mistakes as well as tricks) but as Quarter says K.I.S.S. - keep it simple stupid! Use cheaper timber that way if you have to scrap the project you haven't lost a lot of cash (remember there's a credit crunch....lol)

    even building a "Parts-ocaster" can give you relevent experience.

    but at then end of the day - enjoy what you do - if you are enjoying it you'll make less mistakes because you'll be concentrating more & take more care.

    sb

  24. Grain Filler, Primer, And Paint... Need Assistance

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    looks good... isn't that the same shape as the one Vinnie Vincent (ex Kiss/ Vinnie Vincent Invasion) ???

    I'd agree with syxxstring if ya just gonna block colour it... seems like the logical process to me. As long as the Primer & later coats are compatable with each other there's no reason why you can't use Auto paint/primer - I've done a few from both rattle cans & other autmotive sprays using a Pro spray gun (no photo's unfortunately).

    sb

  25. Mahogany/oil Finish

    in Inlays and Finishing Chat

    Posted

    Hi guys,

    I'm building a guitar with a carved mahogany body & I'm now at the sanding stage. I'm planning on doing an oiled finish (my 1st) & I also know how much of a pain the grain on mahogany can be at the best of times without it having a carved top too.

    Can anyone give me a step by step walkthru' of what I need to do to get as near a perfect finish as possible? (I'd rather take my time & do it right 1st time than with trial & error)

    I'd be extremely grateful for ANY advice given on techniques/materials no matter how trivial they may seem.

    thanx in advance!!!

    sb :D

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